Technical Guide to changing slave cylinder?
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Technical Guide to changing slave cylinder?
it can depend on a few factors. it is also worth checking the master cylinder as these are often on the way out as well. replacing the whole lots does make the job a lot easier too.
if it is just the slave cylinder that needs replacing and you can undo the hydraulic connector mounted on the chassis rail, then it is a simple job. you only need to remove the battery and tray to access and remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder.
the rest is just a case of a few clips. its pretty straight forward when you look at it all.
if it is just the slave cylinder that needs replacing and you can undo the hydraulic connector mounted on the chassis rail, then it is a simple job. you only need to remove the battery and tray to access and remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder.
the rest is just a case of a few clips. its pretty straight forward when you look at it all.
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Hi, Plenty of threads on this issue on this site..
brake or clutch ?
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I would have thought the op would have called it a brake drum cylinder if it was brakes?
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If you mean the clutch slave, it's easy to change but battery box has to be removed for access.
However -
(1) There is a quick release connector under the wheel arch that will almost certainly be corroded solid. You can though just disconnect the hydraulic pipe at the slave cylinder - don't loose the wire clip.
(2) If the clutch is not properly releasing, your problem is more likely to be the master cylinder. The seals wear and air gets drawn in. Bleeding the circuit gives a temporary fix.
Having replaced the slave followed by the master, I think the best option is to replace both as a set. They are not strongly made and repair seals are not available.
However -
(1) There is a quick release connector under the wheel arch that will almost certainly be corroded solid. You can though just disconnect the hydraulic pipe at the slave cylinder - don't loose the wire clip.
(2) If the clutch is not properly releasing, your problem is more likely to be the master cylinder. The seals wear and air gets drawn in. Bleeding the circuit gives a temporary fix.
Having replaced the slave followed by the master, I think the best option is to replace both as a set. They are not strongly made and repair seals are not available.
Out of interest ; I have just changed the clutch slave as it was partially seized and the new one came with the hose and the quick connector that’s located under the chassis leg , the best way was as described above was just to change the fitting to the slave. After a good clean up the old hose went back in with clip and all was fine .
My main query is , how does this quick connect get released if you were to use the new hose ?
A wee mystery to me !
Anyone please.
My main query is , how does this quick connect get released if you were to use the new hose ?
A wee mystery to me !
Anyone please.
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I believe you are supposed to push the ends together to release the QD connector. However mine was corroded solid. I fitted a new master with pipe so cut the old one to have a look. It has stainless springs inside an aluminium case. Road salt gives predictable results.
It's probably possible to get connectors for the plastic pipes but I don't know what they are called.
It's probably possible to get connectors for the plastic pipes but I don't know what they are called.
google
hydraulic quick connectors
plenty of explanations
99% of the time time there's no need to complicate this repair and no need to touch it
normally it's a 5 minute Job and cheap
Done one one a Panda and one on a 500
both pedal sticking down and occasionally squeaking
I just spray some silicone grease in the end and see if it improves, there's hundreds on the internet with the the same problem and have only changed the slave
hydraulic quick connectors
plenty of explanations
99% of the time time there's no need to complicate this repair and no need to touch it
normally it's a 5 minute Job and cheap
Done one one a Panda and one on a 500
both pedal sticking down and occasionally squeaking
I just spray some silicone grease in the end and see if it improves, there's hundreds on the internet with the the same problem and have only changed the slave
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The clutch on my Multijet squeaked from the release lever bushes. I have run some thin oil into both bearings and it's now quiet. However you can only access the top bearing from outside. If the bottom bush still squeaks you are out of luck until the clutch needs replacing.
I got the connector issue because I replaced the slave and later bought a pre-filled master with pipe. I got it for a good price but masters from such as Borg & Beck with a cast body are only about £50 and fluid bleeding is simple enough. I believe the QD connector is only there for factory convenience.
I got the connector issue because I replaced the slave and later bought a pre-filled master with pipe. I got it for a good price but masters from such as Borg & Beck with a cast body are only about £50 and fluid bleeding is simple enough. I believe the QD connector is only there for factory convenience.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Yes you can get these fittings on ebay for next to nought. They push pit and self seal much like plastic water pipe fittings I left the exisitng pipes in place on advice from here and all is good. The ebay fittings look good though.
I changed both slave and master cylinders. Follow your nose. Only 1 warning. Dont drop the retaiing clip for the master cylinder pipe or you will never see it again. Use a magnetic tool to catch as its pulled out. You will need an allen key to open the bleed screw. Dont overtighten this!
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Oh yes! One went ping on my wife's car, but thankfully I had not thrown away my old worn master cylinder. As @PN says, use a magnet stick to make sure you don't drop yours.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
I should add you need to remove the battery, then the three bolts that secure the battery tray and remove that too. You have to flip the wiring clips open with a crew driver to relaes the wiring thats attached too and then reove the palstic battery tray ant the metal support under. Its not hard. Then you can see and access the slave cylinder that just unbolts. I had to swap the rubber end on the pushrod to my new part. Pies have a pull out retaining clip. Lever up with a small screw driver and pull out with a fine nosed plier. Again dont drpo the clip.
I agree with @DaveMcT, I suspect these types of connectors are just to speed up assembly. Also goes for the radiator bottom hose quick connector.
If you're considering disconnecting one after 10+years, then I don't think they were really intended for that. Best left alone in my opinion.
Your probably correct, it’s all too easy to build , but not so come repair time lol!
Yes , proven , that’s what I thought and asked the question , quite right quick disconnect not connect !
Ah well moving on .
Thanks
Ah well moving on .
Thanks
