Hi newbie here. I have a fiat 500 2012 with water noise in dash. 3 mechanics have looked at it and still the same. Heater is getting warm and not over heating. It's just been in garage to be tested for any leaks and NO there is none. I have tried bleeding it myself before it went in the garage and it is better than it was. No spill funnel I bought doesn't fit. Driving me nuts.
General Fiat 500 water noise in dash
- Thread starter JRB5
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General Fiat 500 water noise in dash
Hi welcome, water noise, just after start up or whilst driving typically going round corners especially just after a rain shower?
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Its air in the system that needs bleeding. They can be a pain to bleed. I have resorted to bliwingbinto the rad to put pressure on the top of the water with the bleed valve open. It worked, but remember abti freeze is poisnous. I think @Puggit Auld Jock has devised a method of providing a gead of water to achieve tge same end by safer means. The noise yiu describe is horrid but can - eventually be resolved. You do also need to ensure its nit a head gasket issue but from what you ssy I doubt this is the case.
Thankyou for your reply . Yes it's deffo air in the system and I have tried to bleed it about 8 times. It's better than it was but still there. I can't understand why a mechanic can't fix it. I just feel like I'm paying people for nothing. It's not the head gasket and no leaks. Had the system checked today £55 and still the same.
I replaced the radiator last year, took about a week to purge the air and totally fill the rad, topping up each drive, though no water sound at any point, had the cam belt and water pump changed by Fiat recently, other than they've over filled the system full and no water noises.
Perhaps empty the system your self and slowly re fill, bleed and top up being VERY careful with the bleed screw, top up or check after every run once cool, should take 4.4l or so at change
Perhaps empty the system your self and slowly re fill, bleed and top up being VERY careful with the bleed screw, top up or check after every run once cool, should take 4.4l or so at change
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
You need to persist. Bleeding is just undoing a small black wheel type screw on the top of the big hose left side of the battery while the engine is running DONT REMOVE THIS screw. Just slacken a single turn until water/ air comes out. Have heater on hot. Ensure radiator is fully topped up before starting and during. If air bubbles stop emergong, tighten the bleed screw. Some air has got into the heater matrix and it will eventually get forced out. Pressure filling or adding a header tank high above but connected to the rad filler helps push the air through. Sometimes the air comes out easy and sometimes its a pain in the rear end to get it. I wish I knew why! Take careof very hot water as th engine gets warm. Use rubber gloves and a cloth to avoid scalds. Google otand seeif there is a film. Dont pay garage any more for this. It is straight forward diy.
Keeping on bleeding it may not help. It's a bit of an odd system on the 1.2, with the side expansion tank, and officially the bleed procedure is only used for an initial static refill from empty. Try keeping the bleed screws closed and just use the car, keeping an eye on the coolant level. It should sort itself. Interestingly the official Fiat workshop procedure involves revving the car to 3000 rpm periodically on running up after a refill to purge air....but nothing about opening bleed screws after the initial refill.
Thankyou, will keep at it.
Thankyou will keep trying. Was thinking of filling to the top then draining some off the bottom pipe to see if that works.
Thankyou I will keep at it see how it goes.
Ok thanks . Coolant level is staying the same. I did over fill it and they drained some off in the garage.
Are they the little black rubber gadgets ? I've checked them and they are clear.
I watched u tube videos to do it. Think I will try filling up to top then draining some off from the bottom pipe. See if that works.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Yes that exactly how to do it. Just dont over tighten the screw just close and nip it up a little. Its a plastic bolt and will break if over tightened. You may need to repeat several times. In the end the air seems to work its way out. Keep a close eye on the level anyway as if the air burps its self the le vel will drop and require topping up to the top arrow.
The Panda Nut
Nutty about Pandas Infected by Panda virus and OPD
Yes
When I did the radiator the bleed screw hose was always full, the issue I had was the rad wasn't but driving each day and topping up eventually it was full, it was very easy to see the level in the brand new rad and red coolant
Thankyou
If you live near a hill or incline its a good idea to park it facing uphill(so the rads the highest point!) whilst bleeding /topping up this encourages the air in the system to rise to the surface /highest point axle -wheel ramps also good!.
Thankyou
