Technical Exhaust

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Technical Exhaust

I bought these ones;


At that sort of price i don't need to think about it for long, but I did and chose a brand that i trust. I'm looking forward to seeing if I can remove a few very rusted nuts i've left in place.
Those should help. If the nut is rusted, spray some penetrating fluid (e.g. WD40) a few hours beforehand and then heat the nut before you attempt removal (taking care not to go near any wiring or rubber exhaust mounts). The heat will expand the nut around the thread and may soften the silicone. An exhaust typically runs at high temperatures so a wee bit of heat on the offending nut won't hurt.
 
I'm currently looking at buying a 3 inch angle grinder, the one i have at the moment is 4.5 inch. One like this;

View attachment 456572

Or maybe a saw like this;

View attachment 456573

Any idea which would be best?

The reason i'm thinking about buying a tool, is that i can well imagine myself fighting with this for ages, and its kind of cold out there lol
saw unsuitable!!! You have to hold its shoe agains tge work, or the blades twist ans snap!! Good for rough cutting timbrt and cutting down fence posts to get through nails, but notfor automotive in the main. I have used mine to cut tgrough exhause pipesbut nothing smaller / fiddlier.
 
I bought these ones;


At that sort of price i don't need to think about it for long, but I did and chose a brand that i trust. I'm looking forward to seeing if I can remove a few very rusted nuts i've left in place.

I've taken on board your advice about polishing my toenails lol. They'll soon be spick and span! lol



Its interesting you say this, because I bought a few dozen discs but when they disintegrated after a few minutes i thought they can't do any big jobs. But looking at it now i should just factor in losing loads of these and it might get a job done. I'll keep this in mind now. The worst case scenario is that i get rid of the discs, which just sit around in a drawer :)
Takes longer to keep changing disc than cutting the bolts but it will win out. Trick is hold the tool very steady, be gentle and take your time. ron at half speedif adjustable. This makes it easier. Once ¾ through cold chisel it off.
 
saw unsuitable!!! You have to hold its shoe agains tge work, or the blades twist ans snap!! Good for rough cutting timbrt and cutting down fence posts to get through nails, but notfor automotive in the main. I have used mine to cut tgrough exhause pipesbut nothing smaller / fiddlier.

I was wondering if it was suitable, and somewhat discounted buying it after I saw the size of it. The one I was proposing to buy was an arms length long and i might have lost a limb trying to use that in a confined space lol. I'm also glad someone has said its unsuitable, i've been somewhat tempted to buy one to cut the branches down on an errant tree I have, but that's probably it for that tool.

Takes longer to keep changing disc than cutting the bolts but it will win out. Trick is hold the tool very steady, be gentle and take your time. ron at half speedif adjustable. This makes it easier. Once ¾ through cold chisel it off.

Righto. I have been meaning to try to cold chisel, something, anything for a while but not had the right circumstance.

Those should help. If the nut is rusted, spray some penetrating fluid (e.g. WD40) a few hours beforehand and then heat the nut before you attempt removal (taking care not to go near any wiring or rubber exhaust mounts). The heat will expand the nut around the thread and may soften the silicone. An exhaust typically runs at high temperatures so a wee bit of heat on the offending nut won't hurt.

I tried the extractor set, but it didn't work. It was more of a test, without spraying them with penetrant or heating, and before i knew it they'd rounded off. Oh well. No harm done. Its hard to tell exactly where the leak is, it might be on the solid part adjacent to the flexi pipe, so I might try to get some jb weld etc. on there and see if it makes a difference.
 
I tried the extractor set, but it didn't work. It was more of a test, without spraying them with penetrant or heating, and before i knew it they'd rounded off. Oh well. No harm done. Its hard to tell exactly where the leak is, it might be on the solid part adjacent to the flexi pipe, so I might try to get some jb weld etc. on there and see if it makes a difference.
It appears that you like a challenge. Heat is your friend (especially in this weather)!

Soapy water can help you locate exhaust leaks. The source of the leak is likely to be where you see bubbles. A vacuum cleaner hose down the tailpipe may help. As a general rule of thumb check joints first. Exhaust leaks are sometimes bolts that need tightening or rotted gaskets. If you suspect the pipework, look for black soot spots.
 
I have a garden pruning saw too that is very similar, but that has a set of jaws that hold any branch to be cut, so the rip saw is not ideal for garden use as it will just skip and jump on wet green wood. Aldi periodically do a hand held mini chain saw which is truly excellent for garden work, I cut down 20 trees with mine, taller than the house I am currently working on,
 
I have a garden pruning saw too that is very similar, but that has a set of jaws that hold any branch to be cut, so the rip saw is not ideal for garden use as it will just skip and jump on wet green wood. Aldi periodically do a hand held mini chain saw which is truly excellent for garden work, I cut down 20 trees with mine, taller than the house I am currently working on,
I'll keep an eye out at Aldi for that, and make sure I don't take an eye out while using it ;)
 
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