Technical Diesel Pump

Currently reading:
Technical Diesel Pump

To test the pump, run a test wire from the battery to the fuel pump. You will need to remove the rear seat base and remove the pump access cover.
feels like I am getting at DaveMcT.

But jumping a wire is never a good diagnostic technique and very dangerous there is always other ways

just suppose the fuse has blown due to an internal short

bypassing the fuse by jumping a wire would result in sparking and possibly a fire.

there enough information in eLearn 13 volts at a max of 4.5 amps

I see this advise all over the internet not just by DaveMcT it's never a Good idea. Yes you can often get away with it. But I have seen a blown up ECU and a couple of burnt/melted wires. Just plain luck I haven't seen a car go up yet.

when doing anything similar you must always limit the amps and it's best reserved for a professional or at least someone who understand electrics/electronics. You must also fully understand the wiring and not just poke around blindly
 
After a quick bit of advice from those that are more technically minded than me.

After singing the praises of my panda never letting me down, it's let me down 🙃

Just purchased a new battery as the old one was 10 years old and it had a few missed starts I'm the cold and all has been fine for a few days when the panda suddenly stopped on the way home.

Can't hear the fuel pump priming or pumping so have checked the fuses and swapped over a couple of the relays but it's not brought any success.

Any suggestions of what to check and how to check before looking for a replacement fuel pump?

May or may not be related but the horn does not appear to be working either now.

Any advice appreciated before giving the garage all the Christmas spends 🙂

K
Classic MJ chain snap they just stop very suddenly with no drama or noise, ask me how I know.. And it was 250 miles from home.. Take the cam position sensor from our of the top of the rocker box, turn the engine over with the key, if you can't see the cam spinning around your chain has snapped. Engine out job really.if you can hear your pump priming up my moneys on the chain, it's this engines achilles heel
 
Last edited:
Update.

Oddly I couldn't get any reading in the multimeter at either the relay or the pump (but did pick op the 5v reading from the com wires at the pump plug) so was hopeful it was just electrical.

As suggested took of the air box and the cam sensor to see if the cam rotated on turn over, it doesn't🙁 so it looks like the timing chain has snapped. Gutted, I'm always telling everyone the little panda has never let me down and is still on the original exhaust at 130k miles.

Not sure if the lack of electrical reading is my inability to use a multimeter, related to the timing chain or a separate issue but anyway it looks like the little panda is no more.

My preference would be to fix it up, but sadly I know I have neither the time and nor the skills to be doing that.

Really appreciate all the help and input, as I would have been flogging a dead horse for far longer without it.
 
I recently bought one with a snapped cam chain. I wont be doing the work in one fast hit so the engine will be coming out so I can take my time. No need for a lift as the front bumper and radiator can be removed so the car can be rolled away from the engine.

It's a shame that Fiat did not fit a twin row chain but that's the way it is. Budget £400 for parts to do the job properly. However, you could fit a new cam chain kit and replace only the bent rockers for a lot less. Maybe as low as £125. £150 with a new sump.
 
Last edited:
Update.



As suggested took of the air box and the cam sensor to see if the cam rotated on turn over, it doesn't🙁 so it looks like the timing chain has snapped. Gutted, I'm always telling everyone the little panda has never let me down and is still on the original exhaust at 130k miles.
sorry to hear that the chain has broken.

someone might be able to help you if nearby

however unless the rest of the car is mint or has some sentimental value its probably not worth the expenditure in money and time
 
Update.

Oddly I couldn't get any reading in the multimeter at either the relay or the pump (but did pick op the 5v reading from the com wires at the pump plug) so was hopeful it was just electrical.

As suggested took of the air box and the cam sensor to see if the cam rotated on turn over, it doesn't🙁 so it looks like the timing chain has snapped. Gutted, I'm always telling everyone the little panda has never let me down and is still on the original exhaust at 130k miles.

Not sure if the lack of electrical reading is my inability to use a multimeter, related to the timing chain or a separate issue but anyway it looks like the little panda is no more.

My preference would be to fix it up, but sadly I know I have neither the time and nor the skills to be doing that.

Really appreciate all the help and input, as I would have been flogging a dead horse for far longer without it.
That's sad news, they are a fantastic engine, twin cam 16v inter cooled turbo engine, 70 mpg, £30 tax but the chain is its bad point and to add insult to injury its not such an easy fix, it's an engine out job, special timing tools etc etc, without a four poster ramp and the luxury of a bigger workshop other than than just a normal one car garage it will be a drawn out job. I got under mine and sort of worked out the degree of difficulty and time scale and decided against doing the job, I had at the time two in laws in hospital and I needed a car like yesterday so I had to sell as a project, I was gutted. I did buy another panda but it dosent quite have the character of my little MJ. Small super minis are in demand now, sell it as a project and it should be easy to pass on to somebody who can tackle it on a as and when second car project.
130,000 miles seems to be the mileage they let go.
 
I've had some health issues since buying "Pete's" MJ. All sorted now. The car it will be getting the full works.

The engine really is at the pinnacle of diesel engineering. No kidding, but such a shame the bean counters refused to fit a twin row cam chain.
The cam chain kit provides all necessary parts but the oil pump/chain cover has to come off which, in turn, means taking the sump off. You will also need to replace the valve rockers. Just do the lot and be done with it.
My plan is for a new cam chain kit. New oil pump (daft not to), new sump (so I dont have to worry about damaging the old one) and a full set of 16 rockers. I already have cam locking tools but may need an MJ crank locking tool. Having had an oily clutch on the 100HP I will also replace the gearbox oil seal as the 'box has to come off to lock the crank. This isn't part of the cam chain job but it makes sense at the same time.

I do have another car so the job does not have to be rushed.

This is at the same engine (pretty much) giving an idea of what it's like within the car. Not that bad I suspect. Also notice he's locked the crank at the flywheel. I'm not sure if Fiat have that option but well worth looking.
 
Last edited:
Cheers Dave.

Really appreciate the info and experience. Would love to give it a go and I think in the current market its probably one of the most financially viable options bit I know my skillset is as lacking as my tool box and combined with lack of time and no workspace (really dont fance working on my narrow & busy road) I think only ptactical option for myself is to scrap it or sell it as a project 🤨 and move on.

Appreciate all the help from the forum, didn't want to like this car but have loved it and its the longest I've ever kept a car 🤣 sad to see its one and only failure be a terminal one.
 
Fixing the engine on the roadside is not a practical option even for someone with the tools. However, literally removing the engine and box is not silly difficult. It's how mine will be done. The bumper is an easy remove. Radiator and headlights are carried on a single plastic frame - again easy. Once they are off, the engine and box can be drained of oil and everything disconnected including the drive shafts. With the wheels back on, the car can be rolled away from the engine. (details omitted for "clarity" ;- )
 
Last edited:
Back
Top