General carburettor tuning on panda mk1

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General carburettor tuning on panda mk1

Hi Ice!

Italian "pandista" on english Panda-forum(y):D
What about help from your italian friends at: http://www.fiatpandaclub.it/index.php
and: http://www.panda4x4.info/forum/index.asp (4x4 freaks) ?

Sutjeska

BTW: Was 750 Young (OHV) sold only in Italy and France, or somewhere else?


YES, 100% italian pandista :D:D:D
I know the 1st web site but seem to be off-line from some weeks or months... the second one is for 4x4 so I prefered to make a bit brain effort and translate in english all my questions and I've found this forum and another english forum where I've posted on
From italy I'm getting help using a general cars news-group... I've just get the exploded view of an 32ICEV... tomorrow I'll try to find some free time to study it and make some tuning

I think that non-fire 750 young was sold in italy and france only... spain has seat marbella :)
Never heared about others countries for this specific model/engine

thanks you all!
-ice-
 
YES, 100% italian pandista :D:D:D
-ice-


Hi Ice, here is pictures of IPM32 Carb *(licenced by Weber, produced here in Serbia). Ill try to translate position of your interest, just ask which number of position is of your interest...
 

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Hi Ice, here is pictures of IPM32 Carb *(licenced by Weber, produced here in Serbia). Ill try to translate position of your interest, just ask which number of position is of your interest...

really interesting pages!!!
this carburettor seem to be very similar to mine

on italian NG I got exploded view (but no explanation)
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/5859/weber32icevij2.jpg

please transalte for me the following:
17, 22, 48, 51;
38, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45;
1, 4, 8, 9, 14, 19;
33, 34, 35, 27, 28, 15

are lot of numbers I know.... please :D
but if you know where to find online serbian-english dictionary just tell me and avoid to waste time for me in translation

thanks
-ice-
 
really interesting pages!!!
this carburettor seem to be very similar to mine

Hi Ice,

My English is far from begginers level, but think is better then web-translatation.
Here is your position of interest:

17. Buterfly disc *(opens or close main mixture income into engine)
22. Main diffuzzor hole (main prepared mixture arrive through this hole)
48. Main bar for turning choke – moves buterfly disc (upper buterfly disc) who regulate idle running of cold engine. turns on and of by command button in vehicle cabbin – choke button
51. Chamber of additional carb. pump, for superior running on high revs of engine (pump for extra fuel on highest running revs.)
38. Bar for turning on pump for injection of additional fuel supply -instant fuel injection– on higher ervs)
40. Spring for injection pump (vibrate and support membrane of injection pump, beaten by bar 38)
41. income valve with ball
42. Calibrated hole, for reverse flow of extra mixture pumped by injection pump, returns extra fuel, back to injection pump
43. pusshing valve, pumps extra mixture into top of carb, activate during rapid acceleration – highest revs.
44. Injection vent, for extra mixture (continued after 43)
45 spring for decresing power of buterfly bar beating onto injection pump membrane
1) Calibrated micro hole – for extra supply of mixture
4) Calibrated vent, for air (oxigen) supply
8) needle vent, attached to litle brass or plastic-pontoon
9) needle
14) main vent for fuel income from carb reservoare into mixture prepare chamber
19) emulsion tube (vent) little-tube of brass with lot of holes
33) vent for regulating minimum revs – idle regime of engine
34) calibrated hole for air supply on minimum revs – idle of engine – goes to top throte of carb
35) Channels for supply of fuel during different regime of running – changing of revs (upper and lower, several channels under and over the main buterfly)
27) Channel for mixture supply during idle
28) screw for adjusting idle speed of engine – increase and decrease idle speed
15) Channel (chamber) for emulsion tube – channel where mixture of fuel and air were prepared
 
Hi Ice,

My English is far from begginers level, but think is better then web-translatation.
Here is your position of interest:

17. Buterfly disc *(opens or close main mixture income into engine)
22. Main diffuzzor hole (main prepared mixture arrive through this hole)
48. Main bar for turning choke – moves buterfly disc (upper buterfly disc) who regulate idle running of cold engine. turns on and of by command button in vehicle cabbin – choke button
51. Chamber of additional carb. pump, for superior running on high revs of engine (pump for extra fuel on highest running revs.)
38. Bar for turning on pump for injection of additional fuel supply -instant fuel injection– on higher ervs)
40. Spring for injection pump (vibrate and support membrane of injection pump, beaten by bar 38)
41. income valve with ball
42. Calibrated hole, for reverse flow of extra mixture pumped by injection pump, returns extra fuel, back to injection pump
43. pusshing valve, pumps extra mixture into top of carb, activate during rapid acceleration – highest revs.
44. Injection vent, for extra mixture (continued after 43)
45 spring for decresing power of buterfly bar beating onto injection pump membrane
1) Calibrated micro hole – for extra supply of mixture
4) Calibrated vent, for air (oxigen) supply
8) needle vent, attached to litle brass or plastic-pontoon
9) needle
14) main vent for fuel income from carb reservoare into mixture prepare chamber
19) emulsion tube (vent) little-tube of brass with lot of holes
33) vent for regulating minimum revs – idle regime of engine
34) calibrated hole for air supply on minimum revs – idle of engine – goes to top throte of carb
35) Channels for supply of fuel during different regime of running – changing of revs (upper and lower, several channels under and over the main buterfly)
27) Channel for mixture supply during idle
28) screw for adjusting idle speed of engine – increase and decrease idle speed
15) Channel (chamber) for emulsion tube – channel where mixture of fuel and air were prepared

THANKS A LOT!!!
these are very useful information for me! (y)

Yesterday on evening I've put-off the carburettor and put-on an identical one that I was 100% sure that was right tuned. With this "new" carburettor the car works very good!
Now I'll try to disassembly again the "bad" carburettor and try to understand something. With all the information you all give me maybe I can adjust it for a basic tuning performance.
I also heared about an haynes manual that covers ICEV carburettors... maybe I'll buy it because I like haynes manuals.

In this period (winter is coming here) I need the car so I'll run with the right tuned carburettor
I'll let you known about my tunig experiment

once again thank you all!
-ice-
 
Now I'll try to disassembly again the "bad" carburettor and try to understand something.
In this period (winter is coming here) I need the car so I'll run with the right tuned carburettor
I'll let you known about my tunig experiment
once again thank you all!
-ice-

Ice, just few recommendations from my experience:
Bad carb, first have to be disassembled fully, all vents have to be taken of, and all gaskets have to be removed carefully to prevent any damage. Then disassembled body of carb, with all brass valves, gaskets, springs and moving parts removed, have to be cooked for one hour in some old pot filled with water and sodium bicarbonate. That will remove any dirt’s and particles, oil etc, from carb-body and calibrated holes and tunnels in carb. Then you have to clean valves and valves-holes. Do that with copper wire, backhouse, copper is softer than brass, so you can prevent any damage to calibrated dimensions of the valve hole. (Valves is produced from brass, and if you clean it with steel wire, or similar which is harder than brass, you will damage vents and possibly increase calibrated dimensions. Be special patient with gaskets, because gaskets are very gently and easy to crack. You can use acetone (lackier removal for lady nails) - but do not contact acetone with any rubber or cartoon gaskets on carb, to avoid damage. Dry everything after cooking and before assemble.
Check the brass or plastic pontoon, to be without any damage and holes, because he has to float in exactly position, not too-low level (in that case pontoon will allow to much fuel to carb- keep the needle vent open) and not to float too high (in that case he will close fuel supply in main chamber too early). You have dimensions of pontoon position on pictures.
Check that injection pump-membrane is without damage. Check main mixture vent (small tube with lot of holes) is clean. Also check any gasket for the main body, because they have to prevent any air income between montage place - if so, you will have failure air, and can’t precisely make adjustments.
Wish you lot of lack, and if I can help just ask!

 

Also check any gasket for the main body, because they have to prevent any air income between montage place - if so, you will have failure air, and can’t precisely make adjustments.

hi aca!
so used gaskets can be reused if in working order?
anyway next time I'll make myself the gaskets... too much expansive to buy :D
I prefer spend the money for the calibrated parts

Can you give me the price of a weber 32 icev carburettor in serbia shop, please?

-ice-
 
hi aca!
so used gaskets can be reused if in working order?
anyway next time I'll make myself the gaskets... too much expansive to buy :D
I prefer spend the money for the calibrated parts

Can you give me the price of a weber 32 icev carburettor in serbia shop, please?

-ice-
I will ceheck the prices here these days, but is not so cheap? I think abt. 150 EUR. Will inform you on this topic as soon as possible. There is spare parts too in local shops, so if you need some calibrated valves, gaskets, pontoon or similar, just ask, I will ceheck prices, I think spare parts im much cheaper then whole Carb.
 
I will ceheck the prices here these days, but is not so cheap? I think abt. 150 EUR

hi!
150 eur are a lot for this carburettor... over ebay can be bought in new condition at about 70 eur... depend from luck :D

anyway the 3 main gaskets can be hand-prepared using inexspansive special "paper" for gasket... only 2 or 3 hours of time are requested

only if you have some free time, please ask the price about calibrated parts for 32ICEV carburettor; these are too hard to home-built... I've no CNC :(

I've found some inexpansive lambda-probes over ebay coming used from modern cars... I'll buy 1 of them and I'll try to built some electronics to be able to check the exhaust and better adjust carburation screws;
lambda-probes are not so hard to interface with... electronic is what I'm studing for :D

maybe with the new year I'll try again with the un-adjusted carburettors I've on my hands
These months coming I've to study hard for 1 exam at university... and study too all the information you send me about carburettors (y)

hope to read you soon
from italy
-ice-
 
Go to a scrap yard and get a Weber 32/TLF from a UNO, check the numbers stamped on it with a Weber specialist.
If incorrect strip it and for £20 put the right bits in it
 
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