bleed valve/adjustable boost control VS FSE Powerboost valve

[Dunc Uno Turbo]

plus its bloody quick enough as it is without silly valves

first off, what u on about, a car can never be quick enough!!

i personally run in can adjustable boost (bleed valve) and have never had any probs with it. as aaron says, it is classed as a crude mod as it does trick the wastegate(actuator) into staying closed and allowing more boost.

i also run a FSE fuel regulator as well as an uprated fuel pump. i have to run these as my car would other wise run lean causing melted pistons etc (as jamie found out).

my UT was set up on a rolling road and the fuel was adjusted to match the boost, there fore i dont ever mess with the in car bleed valve as i dont want to mess it up and its all set perfectly.

taking off the bleed valve "should" in theroy make the car run the same boost as if u locked the bleed vlave off. and that boost will be whatever the actuator has be set at. u can adjust the actuator by winding the thread in and out depending on if u want it to allow more boost or less boost before opening.

one thing i dont reccomend, but always creases me, is lock the bleed valve off, floor it in like 3rd and wind the boost up while u booting it, lol, u can really feel the difference lol (Dunc is not responsible for any mis haps if u do this tho!)

mk1 and mk2 both have boost guages as standard!

Dunc

 

[Bushboy]

well ill just switch it off then, could get it set up on a RR when i can afford etc

 

[faster4_tec]

from my understanding a fse powerboost valve basically replaces your stock fuel regulator, and its mappable (but fidelly and you need to have a probe in the exhaust/engine to figure it out properly), so you get a higher fuel line pressure at whatever rev range and if engine is tuned TO RECEIVE IT will give you a bit more go.

However you can't expect more pressure out of your stock pump (a fuel pump is of constant pressure, and what the engine doesn't use is dumped, literally, back into the tank via fuel return hose) a facet pump or one like mentioned further up the thread is a better first move.

BUT, theres no point dumping more fuel into the engine if it won't accept it. You need to get the head worked on, get it flowing better, then look at a rolling road sesh and some specialist work.

If it was me, my first thing would be to return your car to stock, keep all the bits in a box (and if they are actually usefull get em back on at a later date), install a turbo pressure gauge, AND a lean/rich wobbly thing (forgot name) that shows you in the cabin how the engine is running. Then I would work on the head and flow properties, THEN look at a combined turbo boosting sesh AND extra fuel AND extra air in one go (as they compliement each other)

 

[HP]

from my understanding a fse powerboost valve basically replaces your stock fuel regulator, and its mappable (but fidelly and you need to have a probe in the exhaust/engine to figure it out properly), so you get a higher fuel line pressure at whatever rev range and if engine is tuned TO RECEIVE IT will give you a bit more go.

Yes and no. An FSE looks at the vacuum / pressure on the intake manifold and adjusts the fuel pressure accordingly. How the fuel pressure rises with boost is the adjustable thing, it's not related to n-gin speed.

However you can't expect more pressure out of your stock pump (a fuel pump is of constant pressure, and what the engine doesn't use is dumped, literally, back into the tank via fuel return hose) a facet pump or one like mentioned further up the thread is a better first move.

You can always get a little more from a standard pump, just depends how far you want to go.

BUT, theres no point dumping more fuel into the engine if it won't accept it. You need to get the head worked on, get it flowing better, then look at a rolling road sesh and some specialist work.

If you up the boost pressure it will give more power, unless you run into detonation or fuel starvation. You can get decent gains without head work etc. if you're sensible.

If it was me, my first thing would be to return your car to stock, keep all the bits in a box (and if they are actually usefull get em back on at a later date), install a turbo pressure gauge, AND a lean/rich wobbly thing (forgot name) that shows you in the cabin how the engine is running. Then I would work on the head and flow properties, THEN look at a combined turbo boosting sesh AND extra fuel AND extra air in one go (as they compliement each other)

If the car hasn't been set up on a rolling road then yes - either remove or close the bleed valve and see where you are from there.

 

[pinin__prestatyn]

Nobody uses the FSE boost valve on the coupe forum, it's seen as a bit of a gimmick. I'd steer clear personally and go for an uprated fuel pump before buying one anyway.

If I removed my PRV and connected the hoses up, I'd be running base boost (.6 bar) which would be well under the 1 bar standard. I'd have to reconnect the EBV back up the car comes with as standard. Not sure if your car has an EBV though, I don't think it would have.

 

[HP]

lol, has anyone got any idea about what bloody car we're talking about - is it a secret?

 

[pinin__prestatyn]

Lol! is it a Van AAken cinq? cos if it is I've absolutely no clue about them!

 

[hmallett]

If I removed my PRV and connected the hoses up, I'd be running base boost (.6 bar) which would be well under the 1 bar standard.

I thought base boost on the Coupe was 0.8 bar?
Anyway, I ran with my EBV disconnected for about half an hour last weekend, the car still shifts!
H

 

[HP]

The Coop has a thingy a bit like a switchable bleed valve to control the boost limit in 1st, doesn't it?

 

[pinin__prestatyn]

Nice H Mine runs slow as hell with the EBV disconnected. Base boost is whatever is set by the acuator which is .6 on a standard turbo. Could be different on your hybrid though.

Are you going to sell the coupe or just keep both turbocharged monsters

 

[hmallett]

The Coop has a thingy a bit like a switchable bleed valve to control the boost limit in 1st, doesn't it?

It has an Electronically controlled bleed valve, controlled by the ECU, to bleed and therefore raise the boost when on full throttle. It raises the boost to 1.2 bar.
The boost limit in 1st and 2nd gears is much-debated on FCCUK...
H

 

[Bushboy]

Its an MK1 Uno Turbo.

isnt the standard psi on the uno tub 1bar? ive been reading through a few websites on them and thats the general opinion. I dont know what the bleed valve has it running at. will have a look. but im turning it off anyway 1bar good enough for now.

 

[pinin__prestatyn]

It has an Electronically controlled bleed valve, controlled by the ECU, to bleed and therefore raise the boost when on full throttle. It raises the boost to 1.2 bar.
The boost limit in 1st and 2nd gears is much-debated on FCCUK...
H

The EBV should give no more than 1 bar boost, although you can see up to 1.2 bar and more through "spiking".
I like the characteristics of the PRV I have fitted, it seems to make the car more brutal than it is already, however the EBV seems to tame wheelspin a little more.
I hope I can bag myself an AVC-R this year.

 

[Dunc Uno Turbo]

Its an MK1 Uno Turbo.

isnt the standard psi on the uno tub 1bar? ive been reading through a few websites on them and thats the general opinion. I dont know what the bleed valve has it running at. will have a look. but im turning it off anyway 1bar good enough for now.

no, i standard UT runs 0.7 bar as standard. but a standard UT can run 1 bar no probs without any uprated parts.

Dunc