Technical ABS light on after replacing sensor (and wheel bearing)

[garyjpaterson]

As title - I replaced the wheel bearing and hub because previous owner had destroyed two of the hub threads. I made sure to have the magnetic side of the bearing next to the sensor hole.

I replaced the sensor because I destroyed the old one trying to get it out... All good, or so I thought.

But, the light doesn't go out, even after a few miles drive. I went back and checked the sensor, all the wiring looks good, checked the plug. Can't see anything wrong.

Any ideas, dud sensor? Codes need clearing? If so anyone know of a cheap way of doing so?

Any and all help appreciated

 

[The Panda Nut]

It should clear its self. Try cleaning contacts again. Disconnect the battery for 30 mins. If its still on you needs MES as next step. Search through Panda thread as well @koalar has helped a few issues and there are suggestions which may help in that forum.

 

[koalar]

The Bosch 8 ABS on the Panda 169 definitely self clears in the first few yards, after ignition on, I doubt it's any different for the post 2012 pandas

MultiECUscan free does not support the ABS on the later pandas, you need the full version

Has the ABS light always been on

Needs sorting ASAP not only have you lost the ABS but also possibly the electronic brake distribution

If you have an android phone then there's options to read the ABS for around £10 using an adapter, Bluetooth OBD and free software

Easiest way is by viewing the live data from the sensors

Being an active sensor, without an oscilloscope about the only simple test at the sensor I know of would be to test for the supply voltage is present

 

[bugsymike]

I have sorted ABS issues on other makes of vehicle, basically as @koalar best to read live data from all four wheels with suitable diagnostics as it may be another wheel that is causing the problem.
Also as he mentioned supply voltage across the two pins shows up with some types of ABS system or to earth via Voltmeter, I had a Skoda that showed 11.6 volts on one side front and 8 volts on the other, the common fault on that model was a break in the wire under the wheel arch and a repair section was available and fitted , unfortunately on this one the break was further into the loom where for some reason it doubled back in the cabin and back out to the ABS pump and computer in the engine compartment.
Many brand new ABS magnetic wheel bearings have been destroyed by a mechanic cleaning the ABS sensor hole out using a magnetised screwdriver, that often shows as the ABS light going out as normal, but as soon as you drive off it comes on which happens with Active ABS systems.
A handy tool I got free at a Mechanics Convention was this SKF bearing ABS test card, in the card are magnetic filings I think and they show the rotor vanes in the bearing when held against them.
Apologies for the photo quality.

 

[garyjpaterson]

If you have an android phone then there's options to read the ABS for around £10 using an adapter, Bluetooth OBD and free software

This sounds promising. Any specific recommendations for bluetooth adapter and software which are known to work in this case? Seems to be lots of options out there

 

[koalar]

Info here

AlfaOBD

Software on Google store

Demo is limited to 15 minutes which is plenty for this

Interactive test are none functional in the demo but again not required

You need a generic elm327 ver 1.3 or above

You can pay a little extra and get one that's WiFi as well that will work with an iPhone as well

You also will need an adapter, as per instruction above, I believe this is the correct one but I haven't double checked it

 

[garyjpaterson]

Brilliant, thanks for the help. Looks like its a yellow adapter required in this case, I'll get those on order.

I do wonder if the problem is in fact the other side of the car - I have a vague recollection of the wire getting tugged pretty hard when I was getting the hub out of the way to get the driveshaft out (for better access to the inner CV boot, prev owner had them ziptied on... grease everywhere).

 

[bugsymike]

Brilliant, thanks for the help. Looks like its a yellow adapter required in this case, I'll get those on order.

I do wonder if the problem is in fact the other side of the car - I have a vague recollection of the wire getting tugged pretty hard when I was getting the hub out of the way to get the driveshaft out (for better access to the inner CV boot, prev owner had them ziptied on... grease everywhere).

Worth checking

 

[koalar]

I don't really do anything on the post 2012 models

It looks to me as if the adaptor is no longer needed unless I have missed read something

 

[garyjpaterson]

I'm just going by these. Maybe I'm misunderstanding?

 

[koalar]

I'm just going by these. Maybe I'm misunderstanding?
View attachment 455076View attachment 455075

I was looking on the MultiECUscan website

Where it says you need an adapter for the 169 which is correct because I have access the module

But it says it's not needed for the post 2012 cars

Both websites contradict each other one has to be wrong

 

[The Panda Nut]

The Bosch 8 ABS on the Panda 169 definitely self clears in the first few yards, after ignition on, I doubt it's any different for the post 2012 pandas

MultiECUscan free does not support the ABS on the later pandas, you need the full version

Has the ABS light always been on

Needs sorting ASAP not only have you lost the ABS but also possibly the electronic brake distribution

If you have an android phone then there's options to read the ABS for around £10 using an adapter, Bluetooth OBD and free software

Easiest way is by viewing the live data from the sensors

Being an active sensor, without an oscilloscope about the only simple test at the sensor I know of would be to test for the supply voltage is present

Yes, I agree the EBD will not function and the car is not safe in this state as the EBD does the rear brake balance and locking rear brakes will occur. Drive at reduced speed and avoid heavy braking for the minimum distance only.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Take a look here which might help with the adapter question -- suggests its not the yellow adaptor (used for Canbus connections) but the green one you need (for reading data from the ABS system)... https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FESPKG.html

 

[koalar]

Take a look here which might help with the adapter question -- suggests its not the yellow adaptor (used for Canbus connections) but the green one you need (for reading data from the ABS system)... https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FESPKG.html

According to MultiECUscan

The adapter is need for the older panda

But not for the later ones

Of cause it might be an error

 

[garyjpaterson]

Having a think and looking back at photos I took before assembly, I think I've realised my mistake. A very silly one, but I do let myself off slightly given its my first time ever dealing with wheel bearings or ABS sensors...

I'll leave a photo here, should be easy to see the error.

I likely won't be able get round to dealing with it until the weekend, but I'm quite confident I'll be able to sort it.

 

[bugsymike]

Having a think and looking back at photos I took before assembly, I think I've realised my mistake. A very silly one, but I do let myself off slightly given its my first time ever dealing with wheel bearings or ABS sensors...

I'll leave a photo here, should be easy to see the error.

View attachment 455203

I likely won't be able get round to dealing with it until the weekend, but I'm quite confident I'll be able to sort it.

Circlip in way of abs sender?

 

[bugsymike]

Circlip in way of abs sender?

Not just a pretty face eh!
Though some would say "not even"

 

[garyjpaterson]

And yep no surprise, repositioning the circlip sorted it