General 20v Non Turbo information

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General 20v Non Turbo information

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Ive been reading through and theres not a great deal of info on the non turbo 20v, regarding reliability and faults etc... So if i was to join the 20v fraternaty, what joys would i have to look forward to?

it has to the be the 20v NA, the turbo costs are too great at my age :p The cambelt seems to be a common issue? Can this be done DIY (consider that my dad and i have built a few kitcars from scratch, and resto'd many others - so taking the engine out to change isnt a problem :p) or is it really that complex to be a dealer only option?

I also read somewhere about compression issues? Is this a turbo problem or can it apply to the NA also?

So anything really would be helpful :) Just want a clear view of what im letting myself in for? I like getting my hands dirty and get bored if im not fixing/tinkering with something on the car, so maintenance isnt really a problem if you get what i mean :)

Edit: oh and is the ecu OBDII compliant :D
 
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20V doesn't suffer any major issues, other than wishbones wearing out.
Cambelt is not impossible, but tricky. Apparently you need to take the engine off its mounts and it can be moved over enough to change the belt.
Compression issues are news to me, though that can happen when you try and push the turbo model a bit far with the tuning.
The early 20V isn't ODBII compliant. Late models with VIS might be, but I'm not sure.
H
 
20v NA models are obviously more reliable then the Turbo models. Besides usual common problems said many times elsewhere on here and on FCCUK, change the oil every 3000 miles max, and make sure oil pressure is good cold and hot.
Belt as H says cambelt/waterpump can be done, but you still need some specialist crank spanners etc to do the belt.
Every car sold in UK since 2001/2202 has to by law, be OBD11 compatable.
Engines do not have compression issues. Only if the belt snaps!! :eek:
Feel the force Luke [couldn't resist :D ] and get one. Once hooked, you won't regret it.

Andy.:)
 
Belt as H says cambelt/waterpump can be done, but you still need some specialist crank spanners etc to do the belt.
Every car sold in UK since 2001/2202 has to by law, be OBD11 compatable.
Engines do not have compression issues. Only if the belt snaps!! :eek:
Feel the force Luke [couldn't resist :D ] and get one. Once hooked, you won't regret it.

Andy.:)

2 Questions mate,

What are the specialist crank spanners etc, sizes description etc?

Also i asume a HGT 20v Nov 2000 would be too young for OBDII.
 
Tools arent a problem :) What i dont have or cant buy i can make, so no real issue :D

How strong and wear resistant is the bottom end? Because if i take the engine out to do the cambelt etc, i may as well give the bottom end a quick once over with some new shells etc :) But if they're pretty solid, then not really much point.

Any issues with headgaskets etc?
 
2 Questions mate,

What are the specialist crank spanners etc, sizes description etc?

Also i asume a HGT 20v Nov 2000 would be too young for OBDII.

Tools available through Snap on and Fiat themselves.
OBDII iam not sure on HGT. Fiat introduced it on certain models earlier. Coupe was not one. Look for the OBDII down by the fuse box under the felt. Should be a 16 pin socket if OBDII.

Andy.:)
 
They're great....coupes not known for headgasket issues...IME, they are no worse than any other car for maintenance. I've had 2 and only needed wear and tear stuff sorted :)

They are still group 16/17 I think, so if you're young, make sure you get an insurance quote before committing (there are some good coop friendly insurers around)
 
They're great....coupes not known for headgasket issues...IME, they are no worse than any other car for maintenance. I've had 2 and only needed wear and tear stuff sorted :)

They are still group 16/17 I think, so if you're young, make sure you get an insurance quote before committing (there are some good coop friendly insurers around)

£600 was a quote i just couldnt refuse! :D I was expecting mid 1000's, so was a nice pleasant surprise. Even the 20vT was £1100, but thats not really an acceptable price for me at the moment. But at 21, thats not bad at all IMO :) But out of interest, who are these insurance friendly ones? My best quote was from Quinn Direct..
 
That's a seriously cheap quote was that fully comp etc, also any no claims bonus or accidents etc?

Mine is £640 on the HGT fully comp + legal 15K a yr, computing etc, thats 24 with no bonus's on 10month bonus accelerator. via Admiral, and mods declared.
 
That's a seriously cheap quote was that fully comp etc, also any no claims bonus or accidents etc?

Mine is £640 on the HGT fully comp + legal 15K a yr, computing etc, thats 24 with no bonus's on 10month bonus accelerator. via Admiral, and mods declared.

Nah that was standard on tpft at 21 with 4 years NCB :) Not bothered with FC, as at my age / car value its really not worth it. I pay that now on my cinq FC (though wont be renewing at that) with all mods declared! Can see why the coupe has become very attractive all of a sudden :p
 
£600 was a quote i just couldnt refuse! :D I was expecting mid 1000's, so was a nice pleasant surprise. Even the 20vT was £1100, but thats not really an acceptable price for me at the moment. But at 21, thats not bad at all IMO :) But out of interest, who are these insurance friendly ones? My best quote was from Quinn Direct..

Try Noel Dazely, Greenlight, Adrian Flux :)

What sort of 20v n/a spec are you after and budget? I assume you've taken a look at www.fccuk.org/forum for info
 
Try Noel Dazely, Greenlight, Adrian Flux :)

What sort of 20v n/a spec are you after and budget? I assume you've taken a look at www.fccuk.org/forum for info

(y)

Im after a 20v in broom yellow or Red, with black leather interior. Though the colour isnt too important as i can respray it at my own leisure :) I'll add the LE skirts in my own time. Budget isnt too huge, but it seems i can pick up fairly decent ones with some cosmetic damage/wear for £1750 which is fine on my budget (and gives me an excuse to get the spray gun out) :p I'll be looking for around a late P /R reg realistically.
 
(y)

Im after a 20v in broom yellow or Red, with black leather interior. Though the colour isnt too important as i can respray it at my own leisure :) I'll add the LE skirts in my own time. Budget isnt too huge, but it seems i can pick up fairly decent ones with some cosmetic damage/wear for £1750 which is fine on my budget (and gives me an excuse to get the spray gun out) :p I'll be looking for around a late P /R reg realistically.

Are you in a hurry to buy ;)
 
As coupe's go, Vickster's one is an absolute spot on example. :) As from following her posts on fccuk it's possible to see the cars history.

Also as you say picking up a light damaged example can save you loads. This is what I did.

Work wise they are not too bad to work on. I did a clutch on mine and other than being a bit more time consuming found it very straight forward despite all the horror stories I had been hearing. Several people have done there own cambelts. The best way I can see is to undo the driveshafts from the hubs unbolt the engine mounts and using a hoist move the engine over. This will give tons of room. if the worst came to the worst dropping the subframe, (8 or so bolts) would allow the gear box to go in to the wheel arch to give nearly a foot of space.
 
As coupe's go, Vickster's one is an absolute spot on example. :) As from following her posts on fccuk it's possible to see the cars history.

Also as you say picking up a light damaged example can save you loads. This is what I did.

Work wise they are not too bad to work on. I did a clutch on mine and other than being a bit more time consuming found it very straight forward despite all the horror stories I had been hearing. Several people have done there own cambelts. The best way I can see is to undo the driveshafts from the hubs unbolt the engine mounts and using a hoist move the engine over. This will give tons of room. if the worst came to the worst dropping the subframe, (8 or so bolts) would allow the gear box to go in to the wheel arch to give nearly a foot of space.
Well doing the cambelt is like you say, but one word of warning, the engine must only be moved slightly. Moving the engine puts stress on the hydraulics and ive seen several cars later with leaks due to this [inc bravo and marea] when the pipes were stretched.
Talking of clutches, when the belt is changed for the second time at 72k [always change the belt no later then 36k on the turbo], its adviceable to do the clutch at the same time. The engine is tilted up one way and then the other to access both ends. Clutches tend to go around 90-100k but will last a lot longer if mainly motorway driving. Enthusiastic driving will wear the clutch in half the time though!!

Andy.:)
 
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