Technical 2018 PETROL QUBO 350A1000 VALVE CLEARANCES

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Technical 2018 PETROL QUBO 350A1000 VALVE CLEARANCES

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Hi Folks

A few days ago Zardo kindly let me have a link to the repair manual which may answer my query; but, being an oldie with technology, I can't find his post again!

So, where might I find the valve clearance specifications for this engine, and the setting procedure? I would normally expect the check to be made with the cam nose opposite the bucket, but I know it is specified on the cam flanks on some i.e. with the cam in the TDC position on the firing stroke and the cam noses pointing fore and aft. I remember this was the case with the old DOHC air cooled Kawasaki 4s.

I have the head off and I have lapped the valves. With 60,000 M under it's belt, it would be rude not to check the clearances.

Thanks for looking

Qubo Pete
 
Hi Folks

A few days ago Zardo kindly let me have a link to the repair manual which may answer my query; but, being an oldie with technology, I can't find his post again!

So, where might I find the valve clearance specifications for this engine, and the setting procedure? I would normally expect the check to be made with the cam nose opposite the bucket, but I know it is specified on the cam flanks on some i.e. with the cam in the TDC position on the firing stroke and the cam noses pointing fore and aft. I remember this was the case with the old DOHC air cooled Kawasaki 4s.

I have the head off and I have lapped the valves. With 60,000 M under it's belt, it would be rude not to check the clearances.

Thanks for looking

Qubo Pete
I was going to argue that it was hydraulic like most modern engines :) but looking deeper I found this :- See attachment/photo from my 2012 manual.
The engine was installed on:-
  • Alfa Romeo MiTo I (Type 955) in 2011 – 2018;
  • Fiat Albea I (172) in 2005 – 2012;
  • Fiat Doblo I (223) in 2005 – 2016;
  • Fiat Fiorino III (225) since 2008;
  • Fiat Idea I (350) in 2005 – 2012;
  • Fiat Linea I (323) in 2007 – 2018;
  • Fiat Panda II (169) in 2010 – 2012;
  • Fiat Grande Punto I (199) in 2005 – 2012;
  • Fiat Punto IV (199) in 2012 – 2018;
  • Lancia Musa I (350) in 2005 – 2012;
  • Lancia Ypsilon I (843) in 2006 – 2011.

Disadvantages of the Fiat 350A1000 engine​


  • The main problem is the oil burner due to the rapid wear of rings and caps;
  • In the units of the first years, the crankshaft pulley key was cut off and then it slipped;
  • Due to contamination of the throttle or fuel pump grid, engine speed often floats;
  • The engine mounts, starter and thermostat are also distinguished by a low resource;
  • Every 50 thousand kilometers, do not forget to adjust the thermal clearances of the valves.
 

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Hi BugsyMike

Yes I was surprised (pleasantly) to find solid lifters rather than hydraulic.

I'm guessing from your manual that the inlet clearance is 0.3mm (0.012") and the exhaust 0.4mm (0.016") - about what I would expect with quite long valve stems. I'll check the clearances on the base circle (opposite the nose). If they are much more than the specified values, its likely that the checking position will be on the flank. I will post what I find.

No appreciable oil consumption on mine yet. I've had it from near new and always warm it up gently. I change the oil every 3,000M too - sounds like its time and money well spent.

Many thanks for looking.

Qubo Pete
 
I found this for both 1.4 Natural Power E5/E6 and 1.4 Petrol Euro 6 Quobo cars, engine code 350A1000
Valve clearance in the closed position - intake (mm)
0.3

Valve clearance in the closed position - exhaust (mm)
0.4
 
Hi BugsyMike

Yes I was surprised (pleasantly) to find solid lifters rather than hydraulic.

I'm guessing from your manual that the inlet clearance is 0.3mm (0.012") and the exhaust 0.4mm (0.016") - about what I would expect with quite long valve stems. I'll check the clearances on the base circle (opposite the nose). If they are much more than the specified values, its likely that the checking position will be on the flank. I will post what I find.

No appreciable oil consumption on mine yet. I've had it from near new and always warm it up gently. I change the oil every 3,000M too - sounds like its time and money well spent.

Many thanks for looking.

Qubo Pete
Manual is dated 2012, but does appear to be same engine Series and over the years I have found that trade manual to be correct and until retiring invested in them each year (petrol and diesel around £100 plus the timing belt books)before they went first to DVDs and then online with much increased costs:(
 
Hi BugsyMike and Zardo

Thanks guys for your input.

I've now checked mine with the newly assembled head on the bench. Inlets are between 0.015" and 0.016", and the exhausts are all a generous 0.018". Both show a little over spec, but I think they will tighten up a smidgeon when the head is torqued down. It defies logic why they do this as the head bolt platforms are well below the tappet block, but this has been my experience with other engines.

The clearances are the same whether measured opposite the cam nose or on the flank.

I think this is pretty good for 60,000 Miles with them not, as far as I know, having been adjusted from new. It is common to see some closing up over time from valve / seat recession (particularly on the inlets) with direct acting bucket tappets. Noticed the valve seats are less than the usual 45 degrees (possibly 30) which will be less prone to recession.

Delighted that I don't have to try to source new shims over the Christmas period, so can go for re-assembly over a mince pie or two.

Thanks again for all your help and best wishes to all for Christmas and the New Year.

QuboPete
 

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Hi BugsyMike and Zardo

Thanks guys for your input.

I've now checked mine with the newly assembled head on the bench. Inlets are between 0.015" and 0.016", and the exhausts are all a generous 0.018". Both show a little over spec, but I think they will tighten up a smidgeon when the head is torqued down. It defies logic why they do this as the head bolt platforms are well below the tappet block, but this has been my experience with other engines.

The clearances are the same whether measured opposite the cam nose or on the flank.

I think this is pretty good for 60,000 Miles with them not, as far as I know, having been adjusted from new. It is common to see some closing up over time from valve / seat recession (particularly on the inlets) with direct acting bucket tappets. Noticed the valve seats are less than the usual 45 degrees (possibly 30) which will be less prone to recession.

Delighted that I don't have to try to source new shims over the Christmas period, so can go for re-assembly over a mince pie or two.

Thanks again for all your help and best wishes to all for Christmas and the New Year.

QuboPete
Yes, better a little wide than a little tight. They used to say with the 1960s Jags if you couldn't hear the tappets it was bad sign.
It may be after grinding in, that once run for a little while they seat in better on the contact area.
I recall one of the earlier ones I did was after rebuilding a V8 Triumph Stag and having to root through the local Rover Triumph Dealers stores to get all the right shims with my micrometer. Most of my earlier years were on push rod Fords so easier.
I used to hate grinding in loads of valves until I bought a S/H Sykes Pickavant valve seat and valve face cutting sets, so after cutting the seats to the correct angle then it was a quick job to lap them in.:)
Re the opposite the cam nose or flank, I was shown by my lecturer the "on the rock on No4 Cyl, do both valves on No.1Cyl." method (similar process on 6 and 8 cyl etc) at the same time as much quicker and when I checked using the other method they were always spot on.
I used that method on a Tickford 2.8 Ford Capri and the previous owner, a garage proprietor who was friends with my customer watching and saying "Oh! You will have do adjust them several times to get them quiet". He shut up when I started it and it ran perfectly and quiet:) I also fitted German Mahle pistons to it which cured the previous owners problem of burning holes in pistons as 5 Star petrol was no longer available, so 150 psi instead of 180psi compressions so no "pinking/detonation" when on full boost from the turbo, my customer was well pleased.
 
Hi BugsyMike

Ah the joys of buckets and shims! Figuring out which shims would swap to other valves was like one of those 1960s IQ tests where Jane is sitting next to Paul, Paul then moves 2 to the left of Jim, Peter goes to the loo, so who is sitting next to Colin?.... I'm sure you remember them. Great fun with the 16 valvers, used to put them all in Excel and move them around on the computer before doing it for real and still getting it wrong.

2.8 Capri - Heron heads with combustion chambers in the pistons - Bell recons piston crown temperatures get too high, and combustion is terrible so stock piston failure is endemic even normally aspirated. Throw in a turbo and its going to make a bad situation worse. I guess the Mahle pistons were forged and lower CR which got round the design shortcomings. Nice work in sorting something that the guys at Aston Martin didn't.

Yes I remember 5 star. When TEL got banned I was running a little 160 Honda with iron skull heads that soon succumbed to chronic valve seat recession. Ran another similarly equipped early Honda on Avgas 100LL split with Super which had about 2x the TEL of leaded 4 star. Used to rock up at the local airstrip and fill jerry cans until the spoilsports at customs put a stop to it. Happy days...
 
Hi BugsyMike

Ah the joys of buckets and shims! Figuring out which shims would swap to other valves was like one of those 1960s IQ tests where Jane is sitting next to Paul, Paul then moves 2 to the left of Jim, Peter goes to the loo, so who is sitting next to Colin?.... I'm sure you remember them. Great fun with the 16 valvers, used to put them all in Excel and move them around on the computer before doing it for real and still getting it wrong.

2.8 Capri - Heron heads with combustion chambers in the pistons - Bell recons piston crown temperatures get too high, and combustion is terrible so stock piston failure is endemic even normally aspirated. Throw in a turbo and its going to make a bad situation worse. I guess the Mahle pistons were forged and lower CR which got round the design shortcomings. Nice work in sorting something that the guys at Aston Martin didn't.

Yes I remember 5 star. When TEL got banned I was running a little 160 Honda with iron skull heads that soon succumbed to chronic valve seat recession. Ran another similarly equipped early Honda on Avgas 100LL split with Super which had about 2x the TEL of leaded 4 star. Used to rock up at the local airstrip and fill jerry cans until the spoilsports at customs put a stop to it. Happy days...
Giving away my age but Excel hadn't been invented then, it was around 1984 roughly from memory, so it was a case of measuring existing clearances if lucky and then working out what shims required.
When I came to the Tickford Capri first, it was a regular customer who used to run a chipped XR3i before that. The garage owner friend of his who sold him it had fitted several pistons at different times and when I got to it I found all sorts of damage including where they had hammered piston up from the bottom leaving screwdriver marks and other bodges.
I did an initial compression test and got 180psi on a few and the rest were zero from damage, so I did a total rebuild and got crank grind and rebore, but I always rebuild myself as I never trusted machine shops, so I knew bearing caps oiled and fitted with oil ways in correct position, piston ring gaps checked and well oiled pistons fitted with ring gaps spaced equally etc. checked block and heads were flat and no damage, correctly torqued etc.The way it was taught to me as an apprentice.
After fitting the new Mahle pistons I did a compression test and got a good even 150psi across all six.
At the time the customer told me there was only 100 ever made and his was one of the last 50 I think, so quite rare even then.
When I used to race Class 4 karts with Villiers 197cc engines around 1969 we always used Esso 5 star petrol when competing as reckoned to be the best. Yes engines love Tetra Ethyl Lead and when they went to unleaded old cars really had an issue.
I have mentioned on Forum before I bought an old cabin cruiser with a V6 Volvo Penta 150Hp petrol engine which was knackered from standing since 1982 roughly and fitted a Fiat Ducato Maxi 2.8 122Hp engine in which I tweaked to almost the same performance I got 26 knots and 4 gallons to the hour on diesel compared with the original when new which did 30 knots and 10 gallons to the hour on 5 Star petrol.
However the point was the old fuel tank which I replaced was full of roughly 25 year old 5 Star petrol, after filtering the rust and water out I put it in an old Fiat Uno I had and the increase in performance was really noticeable without doing anything different.:)
I had a friend who was foreman of the local Honda Motorcycle Dealers and any old English bikes I got offered first refusal when they came in part exchange, many of them were iron heads although I seem to recall the £25 Triumph 21 350cc was alloy.
In those days people were buying Honda Dreams and Super Dreams. Happy days when I was single and my pockets did jingle.:)
 
Hi BugsyMike

Some great tales there! I think the XR3i used the SOHC Pinto engine that carried on with Ford's seemingly unbreakable devotion to the Heron head, so the piston failures continued. A mate of mine had a Mk3 Cortina with one and, guess what, his engine blew from piston distortion > overheating > blow by > ring land failure > ring seizures. They would have been far better sticking with the Crossflow (as they did in the XR2) - a splendid engine; but the marketing men wanted their engines to be OHC, so they came up with the dreadful Pinto that used to burn pistons and blow cam belts off for fun. Still at least it didn't have those dreadful old fashioned pushrods...

Great tale about the 25 year-old 5 star. Finally sourced some equivalent Ethanol free leaded 103 RON; it's marketed in 25L containers for vintage vehicles and as a storage fuel for garden machinery and the like. Costs a packet but my Honda CB77 race bike ran a treat on it.

Back to Qubo woes, I'm back up and running of sorts. The engine is now hunting the revs rising and falling. Think I've connected everything up as it should be. Watch this space for a new post and cry for help.

QuboPete
 
Hi BugsyMike

Some great tales there! I think the XR3i used the SOHC Pinto engine that carried on with Ford's seemingly unbreakable devotion to the Heron head, so the piston failures continued. A mate of mine had a Mk3 Cortina with one and, guess what, his engine blew from piston distortion > overheating > blow by > ring land failure > ring seizures. They would have been far better sticking with the Crossflow (as they did in the XR2) - a splendid engine; but the marketing men wanted their engines to be OHC, so they came up with the dreadful Pinto that used to burn pistons and blow cam belts off for fun. Still at least it didn't have those dreadful old fashioned pushrods...

Great tale about the 25 year-old 5 star. Finally sourced some equivalent Ethanol free leaded 103 RON; it's marketed in 25L containers for vintage vehicles and as a storage fuel for garden machinery and the like. Costs a packet but my Honda CB77 race bike ran a treat on it.

Back to Qubo woes, I'm back up and running of sorts. The engine is now hunting the revs rising and falling. Think I've connected everything up as it should be. Watch this space for a new post and cry for help.

QuboPete
From memory the XR3i was the CVH engine.
Apart from camshaft failure due to poor lubrication, I found the Pinto was fairly good for the time, it had the added advantage that it was non interference.
I had a customer with the 2.0 litre version in a Ford Transit pick up that tried bump starting for nearly half a mile down hill, called me out and I fitted a new cam belt kit and off he went again with no damage.
Unlike the CVH another customer had in a Ford Escort 1.3 that one turn of the starter smashed all the valve gear.
The crossflow was good , but I was introduced to the pre cross flow in Ford Anglias and Cortinas in 997,1.2, 1340cc and 1500 (the 1500 being a five bearing crank so quite strong) format.
The first three were all same size pistons so crank and con rod change gave the cc, As an apprentice I fitted the 1340 crank and con rods from a Ford Classic into a Ford Anglia, unfortunately it didn't last as I used the 997cc cylinder head so extreme high compression with pinking on 5 star fuel.
The 1500 engine was a straight swap in place of the 997cc, all you needed to do was swap the crankshaft spigot bearing in the flywheel and bend the throttle linkage up a little as the 1500 was roughly 5/8ths of an inch taller.
We had a fuel customer who ran a Lotus engine in his lime green Ford Anglia.:)
I did have a Honda CB 77 305cc from memory? I didn't keep it long as a little to near the ground I recall;)
Re the Qubo, assuming all wiring correctly connected, no air leaks?
 
Hi BugsyMike

Yes, sorry, forgot about the CVH!

My cylinder head woes started earlier this year with combustion chamber > water jacket sealing failure on my '73 Europa TC Special that has the big valve Lotus-Ford TC unit based on your early days pre crossflow 1500 'L' block. I think the Qubo came out in sympathy a few months later! A real pain because I bought my newish Qubo to save spannering time for the Europa and my classic bikes. I'm now back using a £700 20 year old Berlingo as my daily driver. Best laid plans of mice and men....

Bet that Anglia went like stink and was pretty scary if it had the original live axle.

Those early Hondas were made around the average Japanese fella of about 5'3" and 8 or 9 St; so, at 5'10" and 12 St, I struggled tucking in on my 77. One of my sparring partners of similar build elongated his making it easier to ride.

Back to the Qubo, I was very careful to label all the connectors with Dymo label tags on each end, so I'm pretty sure they are all back where they should be. Going back through it all today, I found I hadn't correctly seated the throttle bypass unit into the inlet plenum before fitting the large wire clip. Like you, I immediately thought false air was causing the hunting and that would have fixed it - sadly not. Next job was to undo all the connectors again and clean the contacts with contact cleaner. Still no joy. Inlet manifold is coming off again tomorrow to check for any false air sources, but I'm not hopeful.

One possibility for false air seems to be the pipe running from the base of the plenum to the airbox. This clearly bypasses both the throttle plate and the electronically controlled tickover bypass. I assume it is designed to evacuate and recycle any excess oil / fuel in the plenum, but I'm puzzled as to how it does this without interfering with the tickover. Might just try blanking it off for now.

I think next I will need to focus on other disturbed components from the head removal. Cam timing I'm hoping isn't one as I made and fitted cam and ring gear locking tools before removing the cambelt. My only niggle is the oil pressure operated variable valve timing cam pulley that drained itself whilst the cam was removed, although I didn't take the pulley off the cam. The amount by which the drained pulley moved relative to the cam didn't seem sufficient to be able to install the cam belt a tooth out, and it seemed to go back with the front run quite taut. I removed the solenoid operated valve from the cam cover and cleaned the gauze filters before refitting.

After that I think I'm into the possibility of a component failure maybe due to disconnection / removal or other physical or electrical disturbance. I'm going to need a diagnostic tool for the OBD. Has anyone got any tips on what's needed for this, where one might be obtained, and where the connection point is on the car?

Thanks for looking guys, and for all your help so far

Kind regards

QuboPete
 
Hi BugsyMike

Yes, sorry, forgot about the CVH!

My cylinder head woes started earlier this year with combustion chamber > water jacket sealing failure on my '73 Europa TC Special that has the big valve Lotus-Ford TC unit based on your early days pre crossflow 1500 'L' block. I think the Qubo came out in sympathy a few months later! A real pain because I bought my newish Qubo to save spannering time for the Europa and my classic bikes. I'm now back using a £700 20 year old Berlingo as my daily driver. Best laid plans of mice and men....

Bet that Anglia went like stink and was pretty scary if it had the original live axle.

Those early Hondas were made around the average Japanese fella of about 5'3" and 8 or 9 St; so, at 5'10" and 12 St, I struggled tucking in on my 77. One of my sparring partners of similar build elongated his making it easier to ride.

Back to the Qubo, I was very careful to label all the connectors with Dymo label tags on each end, so I'm pretty sure they are all back where they should be. Going back through it all today, I found I hadn't correctly seated the throttle bypass unit into the inlet plenum before fitting the large wire clip. Like you, I immediately thought false air was causing the hunting and that would have fixed it - sadly not. Next job was to undo all the connectors again and clean the contacts with contact cleaner. Still no joy. Inlet manifold is coming off again tomorrow to check for any false air sources, but I'm not hopeful.

One possibility for false air seems to be the pipe running from the base of the plenum to the airbox. This clearly bypasses both the throttle plate and the electronically controlled tickover bypass. I assume it is designed to evacuate and recycle any excess oil / fuel in the plenum, but I'm puzzled as to how it does this without interfering with the tickover. Might just try blanking it off for now.

I think next I will need to focus on other disturbed components from the head removal. Cam timing I'm hoping isn't one as I made and fitted cam and ring gear locking tools before removing the cambelt. My only niggle is the oil pressure operated variable valve timing cam pulley that drained itself whilst the cam was removed, although I didn't take the pulley off the cam. The amount by which the drained pulley moved relative to the cam didn't seem sufficient to be able to install the cam belt a tooth out, and it seemed to go back with the front run quite taut. I removed the solenoid operated valve from the cam cover and cleaned the gauze filters before refitting.

After that I think I'm into the possibility of a component failure maybe due to disconnection / removal or other physical or electrical disturbance. I'm going to need a diagnostic tool for the OBD. Has anyone got any tips on what's needed for this, where one might be obtained, and where the connection point is on the car?

Thanks for looking guys, and for all your help so far

Kind regards

QuboPete
Suffering a bit then?
All my vehicles are bangers as my theory is that cars and houses are your biggest out going, but generally cars only go in one direction.;)
I have a Skoda Scout that I paid £700 for a few years ago with 150k on it and still going strong (until tomorrow:)), I bought a 2012 Citroen C3 for £300 fixed the DPF and ran it for 4 years 225k miles.
The Anglia did have a lot of axle tramp, I recall coming back from the moors and hearing rubbing noise, rear tyre was against the wheel arch as leaf spring had broken.
Those Honda CBs were school leavers bikes around 1969 as I recall for those with the money to buy new so right size for them, I started off with a £25 Series 1 Lambretta, until a neighbour sold me his 1955 Matchless 600cc Super Clubman with double adult sidecar for £10 as he had bought a car for his family. I could ride it on L plates and the wooden sidecar quickly fell apart so I just fitted a wooden box on the chassis, it spent most of the time on two wheels anyway so great fun for a 16 year old. Racing to work one day it went down on to one cylinder, so pushed it behind my mum's house and bought my first car, sold the Matchless for £2. as it was without looking at it as enjoying being in the dry. A couple of years later the lad who bought it told me it was only a looses push rod that had jumped off the rocker, that bike would be worth a few bob now.;)
The one I really wish I still had was a BSA 650 Road Rocket that I built from a pile of bits using an A7 frame and Norton Road Holder forks etc. total cost £100 after rebuilding the engine. I bought the basics from a neighbour minus the frame for £25 as he gave up on it due to a persistent misfire. As I was rebuilding it, for no other reason than curiosity I stripped the magneto and found at the very back a square condensor which had come unsoldered from it's back plate, that was the misfire and why the previous owner sold it in pieces. I ran it with twin megaphone exhausts and trials handlebars and knobbly tyres, it sounded and went great:) Second favourite was a Triumph Trailblazer with twin leading shoe front brakes and conical hubs and a B40 engine.
Re Qubo air leaks have you tried listening with a bit of rubber hose, or spraying brake cleaner to see if air leak sucks in cleaner and engine revs change?
Most on Forum use MES multiecuscan on a Windows tablet or similar, I use MaxiECU Scan tool, EOBD diagnostic port is probably the D shape one in or near the fuse box, they are meant to be within easy access of drivers position.
 
Hi BugsyMike

Many happy memories of fixing up old cars on the cheap. A dying art as cars become generally less fixable, and drivers become less interested in such activities. Its all £200 down and £200 pcm for even a basic a new car that will never be yours. 3 years on 'one' has spent £7,400 with nothing to show for it apart from clean hands. My first car was my wife's Talbot Horizon which failed I think only its 2nd MOT on corrosion. Over the next few years that car taught me gas welding.

Love the bike stories. Always was and will be a bike man at heart. My CB77 race bike started life in 1978 as a £25 basket case CB72. Current mount is a 1956 350 BSA DB32 Gold Star - terrible by modern standards, but I've grown to love it.

.Anyway back to the boring / infuriating Qubo, thanks for the info. A good friend asked my old garage boss if I could have the use of his very expensive diagnostic gear which has confirmed my worst fear - yes I have got the valve timing out - doh. Looks like AppleFarmer has had exactly the same problem with his 500, so I'm researching further to make sure I get it right this time without dropping any valves. It would be useful to know what the VVC pulley actually does. I guess it will advance the cam at low RPM (for an earlier IVC and a fuller cylinder), and then retard it back to a more usual position in the mid - upper range. Also, I don't know its default position when the engine is not running and there is no oil pressure.

Thanks again for your input - I will get there in the end!

Qubo Pete
 
My introduction to welding was basically hands on as an apprentice, we had Oxy/Acetylene and a big arc welder for tractor/trailer type stuff, at College they just showed us how to adjust a gas torch, then put two pieces of 1/8th plate in a vice and said stick them together! It must have worked as nothing I have welded has fallen apart, whether gas,arc, mig or Tig. I much preferred the Gas for weld pattern, the Tig should have been on a par , but usually in a draughty workshop in DC, AC alloy was not an art I mastered.
The low down torque of a British single compared with modern stuff is what I miss most, although in fairness I stopped riding many years ago after being fed up with all the idiots pulling out of side roads etc. I do have a 1991 Jawa 500R in bits that I ran for a little while before the tuned up air cooled Rotax 4 valve destroyed the cush drive in the back wheel, my intention was to put the engine in an Armstrong Monoshock frame I have, but it has all sat for too long I suspect.
The VVC timing side is not something have got involved with although I know many have done cam belt jobs and ended up with issues.
This is the timing belt fitting details I have for that engine in an earlier model than your Qubo and I note at the bottom of page it mentions it may be necessary to carry out an ECM learning procedure.:(
 

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Hi BugsyMike

Many thanks - that's brilliant! - your book refers to the same engine code as my Qubo, and the diagrams look just the same as my engine looks. The step by step instructions in the book are of exemplary clarity.

The cam locking tool I made held the cam with the slot level with the cam box joint face, then I just made and fitted a ring gear lock with the cam lock in place. If the cam pulley had stayed put relative to the cam (as it did when I did the cambelt about 2,000 Miles ago) it should have worked and I'd be home and dry now. Frankly, I didn't even realise it was VVT until it was too late and I had the cam out. I suppose the hefty look of the pulley and the solenoid on the cam cover should have given me a clue, but the penny only dropped finally when I saw the two oil grooves in the timing side cam bearing journal and drillings going off towards the pulley.

No short cuts this time - I'm going to try and source all the correct locking tools!

One great engine that SOHC 4V Rotax. I think Mark Forsyth had the absolute bike lap record at 3 Sisters using one in a Spondon frame - and he was still wearing his novice jacket. He was great to watch riding rings round everything. Wasn't long before he was an international superstar.

No low down torque with the Goldie on Clubman cams. Wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding below 3,500. Only starts pulling hard at 4,500, lights up like a firework at 6,000 and turns to shrapnel at 7,400. It does make life interesting though!

Thanks again for all your help and interesting reading.

QuboPete
 
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