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Technical 2015 cross PTU filler and drain plug locations?

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Technical 2015 cross PTU filler and drain plug locations?

A little update here... Having managed to track down GL5 spec differential oil (https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-982-fuchs-titan-sintopoid-fe-sae-75w-85-fully-synthetic-gear-oil.aspx ), I today have drained and refilled my 4x4's PTU casing. Like others here, the oil that came out was almost muddy in colour and there was a little metallic 'paste' on the drain plug's magnet. I've only driven it round the block since so can't be sure, but initial perception is that the transfer gears are much quieter now. I also topped up the main gearbox which took maybe 100ml of gear oil. For anyone else considering this task, an 8mm Allen bit in a 10mm socket on my 3/8th inch socket set was a perfect fit over and around the exhaust to reach to fill and level plug... see photo.
 

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Herts Hillhopper said:
A little update here... Having managed to track down GL5 spec differential oil (https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-982-fuchs-titan-sintopoid-fe-sae-75w-85-fully-synthetic-gear-oil.aspx ), I today have drained and refilled my 4x4's PTU casing. Like others here, the oil that came out was almost muddy in colour and there was a little metallic 'paste' on the drain plug's magnet. I've only driven it round the block since so can't be sure, but initial perception is that the transfer gears are much quieter now. I also topped up the main gearbox which took maybe 100ml of gear oil. For anyone else considering this task, an 8mm Allen bit in a 10mm socket on my 3/8th inch socket set was a perfect fit over and around the exhaust to reach to fill and level plug... see photo.
Click to expand...
Good evening Herts Hillhopper,
That is good that you have changed the oil in the transfer box (PTU), on changing mine i immediately felt the difference, it was much smoother in operation.
Why did you not drain and replace the oil in the transaxle at the same time?
My cross failed the MOT recently in the F/N/S bottom ball joint, i have purchased two new complete lower wishbones and i will change both sides ASAP.
Can the wishbones be removed without taking the lower section off from the front of the car to access one of the three bolts, any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
One of the advisories is that the seal in the propshaft centre bearing is displaying deterioration, so im presuming i can disconnect the prop, split the shaft into two pieces and change the bearing?
Best regards,
Steve
 
Bio1213 said:
Good evening Herts Hillhopper,
That is good that you have changed the oil in the transfer box (PTU), on changing mine i immediately felt the difference, it was much smoother in operation.
Why did you not drain and replace the oil in the transaxle at the same time?
My cross failed the MOT recently in the F/N/S bottom ball joint, i have purchased two new complete lower wishbones and i will change both sides ASAP.
Can the wishbones be removed without taking the lower section off from the front of the car to access one of the three bolts, any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
One of the advisories is that the seal in the propshaft centre bearing is displaying deterioration, so im presuming i can disconnect the prop, split the shaft into two pieces and change the bearing?
Best regards,
Steve
Click to expand...
Why not: wasn’t on my plans for today so didn’t have enough gearbox oil here to change. Another day…. Difference is I had a hunch the PTU wasn’t happy, but the gearbox fine. It will get done though.

I don’t believe it’s possible to reach the horizontal bolt securing the front wishbone pivot without removing the front outriggers from the subframe. There’s another thread in here that describes the process and it seems not to be too onerous a task. I’ll try and add the link in a moment. Edit - see this post (start here and follow the link to a ‘how to’ for the very similar job on a 500) https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/panda-cross-suspension-arm-front-bolt.487717/post-4599556

The failure of the propshaft centre bearing has been covered in another recent post here. It’s not the seal that fails but the rubber ‘doughnut’ that supports the bearing in the metal part fixed to the car. Reportedly it can be replaced separately but the whole shaft (with a new support and bearing supplied as part of it) can be replaced more easily - see here (which is page 2 of a longer thread about the 4x4 generally) https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/4x4-panda.498456/post-4669435
 
Last edited:
Herts Hillhopper said:
Why not: wasn’t on my plans for today so didn’t have enough gearbox oil here to change. Another day…. Difference is I had a hunch the PTU wasn’t happy, but the gearbox fine. It will get done though.

I don’t believe it’s possible to reach the horizontal bolt securing the front wishbone pivot without removing the front outriggers from the subframe. There’s another thread in here that describes the process and it seems not to be too onerous a task. I’ll try and add the link in a moment. Edit - see this post (start here and follow the link to a ‘how to’ for the very similar job on a 500) https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/panda-cross-suspension-arm-front-bolt.487717/post-4599556

The failure of the propshaft centre bearing has been covered in another recent post here. It’s not the seal that fails but the rubber ‘doughnut’ that supports the bearing in the metal part fixed to the car. Reportedly it can be replaced separately but the whole shaft (with a new support and bearing supplied as part of it) can be replaced more easily - see here (which is page 2 of a longer thread about the 4x4 generally)

https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/4x4-panda.498456/post-4669435
Click to expand...
Good evening Herts Hillhopper,
Once again thank you for your help and advice, and for the attachment of a previous thread, it was very useful.
Take care and stay safe,
Best regards,
Steve.
 
Bio1213 said:
Good evening Herts Hillhopper,
That is good that you have changed the oil in the transfer box (PTU), on changing mine i immediately felt the difference, it was much smoother in operation.
Why did you not drain and replace the oil in the transaxle at the same time?
My cross failed the MOT recently in the F/N/S bottom ball joint, i have purchased two new complete lower wishbones and i will change both sides ASAP.
Can the wishbones be removed without taking the lower section off from the front of the car to access one of the three bolts, any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
One of the advisories is that the seal in the propshaft centre bearing is displaying deterioration, so im presuming i can disconnect the prop, split the shaft into two pieces and change the bearing?
Best regards,
Steve
Click to expand...
Here's a video for 500 wishbone replacement pretty much same procedure for Panda - you do have to take the front bumper off

I've done my 4x4 a couple of times now, first replacement wore out after 2 years (it was pattern part from ECP) second time I went to Shop4Parts and got an OEM part for similar price - its still fine after 3 years.

When taking the bumper off be sure to unplug the front fog lights before you drop the bumper (and snap the cables...) The sump guard covers one of the bolts you either have to take whole sump guard off (fighting with the possibly rusted bolts) or just bend the corner back to allow the subframe bolt to drop.

There's much discussion on here about the propshaft centre bearing. Until recently it seems that you had to buy the whole propshaft assembly, more recently it seems you can buy the part - the issue seems to be separating the shaft. I've not had to do this...yet. @Herts Hillhopper will share the links I'm sure ;)
 
Panda IIs said:
Here's a video for 500 wishbone replacement pretty much same procedure for Panda - you do have to take the front bumper off

I've done my 4x4 a couple of times now, first replacement wore out after 2 years (it was pattern part from ECP) second time I went to Shop4Parts and got an OEM part for similar price - its still fine after 3 years.

When taking the bumper off be sure to unplug the front fog lights before you drop the bumper (and snap the cables...) The sump guard covers one of the bolts you either have to take whole sump guard off (fighting with the possibly rusted bolts) or just bend the corner back to allow the subframe bolt to drop.

There's much discussion on here about the propshaft centre bearing. Until recently it seems that you had to buy the whole propshaft assembly, more recently it seems you can buy the part - the issue seems to be separating the shaft. I've not had to do this...yet. @Herts Hillhopper will share the links I'm sure ;)
Click to expand...

Good evening,
Thank you for you help its greatly appreciated.
I recently purchased both the lower control arms from Euro car parts.
I have only completed an initial visual assessment on the method to remove the arms, i can see that a section of lateral subframe needs to be removed to access 1 of the 3 bolts that secures the wishbone in place.
This side sub frame member bolts to the front bumber member via 4 bolts, i was hoping i could remove the inner plastic wing protector and be able to reach and access those 4 bolts, or perhaps through the lower plastic grill, the one with the large holes, using a long extension and perhaps a U/J?
I have removed the engine sump guard on numerous occassions and applied copper grease to the 8 securing bolts so removing the guard will not be a problem, but i really appreciate your advice, so thank you.
The prop shaft centre bearing was an advisory on the MOT not a failure, so at least i can replace that in the near future.
Im presuming the 2 prop shafts are either flanged or splined together?
Best regards,
Steve
 
Bio1213 said:
This side sub frame member bolts to the front bumber member via 4 bolts, i was hoping i could remove the inner plastic wing protector and be able to reach and access those 4 bolts, or perhaps through the lower plastic grill, the one with the large holes, using a long extension and perhaps a U/J?

The prop shaft centre bearing was an advisory on the MOT not a failure, so at least i can replace that in the near future.
Im presuming the 2 prop shafts are either flanged or splined together?
Best regards,
Steve
Click to expand...
Pretty sure you'll find it easier/necessary to take the bumper off, I think I recall you only have to loosen the bumper crash bar bolts - not take them all the way out.

On the prop shaft I think it must be splined I think the real issue is going to be pulling the bearing off what ever you are left with???
 
Panda IIs said:
Pretty sure you'll find it easier/necessary to take the bumper off, I think I recall you only have to loosen the bumper crash bar bolts - not take them all the way out.

On the prop shaft I think it must be splined I think the real issue is going to be pulling the bearing off what ever you are left with???
Click to expand...
Ok thank you......i looked at the screws etc holding the front plastic bumper section in place and they appeared to be corroded, so i was not sure if they would unscrew?
Yes i understand now regarding the prop shaft, so again im presuming once the 2 shafts have been disconnected then i would potentially require a puller of some sort to remove the old bearing assembly?
Thank you for all your help.
Best regards,
Steve
 
Bio1213 said:
Ok thank you......i looked at the screws etc holding the front plastic bumper section in place and they appeared to be corroded, so i was not sure if they would unscrew?
Yes i understand now regarding the prop shaft, so again im presuming once the 2 shafts have been disconnected then i would potentially require a puller of some sort to remove the old bearing assembly?
Thank you for all your help.
Best regards,
Steve
Click to expand...
If memory serves I think the screws are self tappers into spire nuts for the arch liner plus a "proper" bolt between the wing and bumper; in a worse case just grind off the heads since once off the car they can be replaced. Get a good fit on the screw head to give the best chance. The clips at the edge of the bumper under the headlight are tricky until you work out how they slide and clip at the same time if you know what I mean?
 
Panda IIs said:
If memory serves I think the screws are self tappers into spire nuts for the arch liner plus a "proper" bolt between the wing and bumper; in a worse case just grind off the heads since once off the car they can be replaced. Get a good fit on the screw head to give the best chance. The clips at the edge of the bumper under the headlight are tricky until you work out how they slide and clip at the same time if you know what I mean?
Click to expand...
Thank you so very much for all your help Panda ll's its much appreciated.
Best regards,
Steve.
 
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