Technical  1992 2.5td Sofim 8140.27

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Technical  1992 2.5td Sofim 8140.27

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Hi everyone, I've searched and searched for hours but I can't find the info I'm looking for.
Can anyone tell me or post an image of where the crank locking pin location is on this engine?

There's a Dave's shed video on you tube that shows it in the bell housing but my housing is different and the hole in that location has a 10mm aluminium plug that has been rounded off.

Any info or tips would be great.

Also, I've just serviced and tested the injectors which are working perfectly but it's still massively over fueling. Is there anything I can check whilst I have the covers etc off before I send it to a specialist?

Thank you 👍
 
Hi everyone, I've searched and searched for hours but I can't find the info I'm looking for.
Can anyone tell me or post an image of where the crank locking pin location is on this engine?

There's a Dave's shed video on you tube that shows it in the bell housing but my housing is different and the hole in that location has a 10mm aluminium plug that has been rounded off.

Any info or tips would be great.

Also, I've just serviced and tested the injectors which are working perfectly but it's still massively over fueling. Is there anything I can check whilst I have the covers etc off before I send it to a specialist?

Thank you 👍
What is it exactly that you need?
I can show you a timing belt book details for your model, but I don't recall needing to lock the engine to do the job. However if you want to lock an engine the easiest way is to remove the starter and put a small spanner across the ring gear teeth and turn engine a little till it jams, usually a 10mm does the job. Often a locking tool involves doing that but with a special plate with teeth to engage in ring gear.
As you say it is over fuelling , have you checked for turbo boost pipe leaks as if not enough air/oxygen to the amount of fuel coming in then you will get black smoke. Split turbo hose or intercooler rad are common places to check.
Incidentally what vehicle is this engine in so I can give correct details, it doesn't bother me as most of mine were in Iveco Daily's, some Ducato and also Peugeot Boxers and Citroen Relays with those similar Sofim engines.:)
 
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Thanks for taking the time to reply. The vehicle is a ducato based motorhome.
I haven't checked any hoses yet, I'll do that next. I can't hear anything leaking and it drives well enough. It just plumes out black smoke on start up and stinks of diesel. The smoke clears after a short drive but it still stinks.
 
Thanks for taking the time to reply. The vehicle is a ducato based motorhome.
I haven't checked any hoses yet, I'll do that next. I can't hear anything leaking and it drives well enough. It just plumes out black smoke on start up and stinks of diesel. The smoke clears after a short drive but it still stinks.
Oh! that may be something else, if it runs clean once warm even under load up hills with full throttle?
If black smoke usually that is excess fuel, does it have a flame cold start device, if faulty that could chuck extra fuel into the inlet. when you tested the injectors there was no dribble of diesel that could collect on pistons before starting up?
I assume definately black smoke, not blue/grey from burning oil, or white from cold start with no heater plugs or cold start device, or of course low compression due to incomplete combustion as those things can give the white smoke that smells of diesel but clears as engine warms up and much worse in cold weather.
The other thing is if the smoke is happening at tick over then the turbo isn't really doing much so rules out split hoses etc. that problem is more when booting it up a hill under load. full throttle.
 
It's kinda white and black, grey if you like 😆
It gets blacker when I rev it from idle after first starting it.
There are extra power cables going to the flame start and a non standard push button in the dash that looks like it might be a manual activation for flame start. I might rip all that out when I get chance.
I've not noticed any lack of power up hill and definitely no smoke .
Do you know which air filter is fitted to these engines? There wasn't one fitted when I bought it (it was still smokey) I've put one in from euro car parts but there's nothing to hold it in place and kinda rattles about a bit.

One thing I did notice last time I drove it, going down hill when I decelerate the heater coil (flame start) light flickers on and off. I've never seen it do anything else other than go on and off quickly before cranking.
 
It's kinda white and black, grey if you like 😆
It gets blacker when I rev it from idle after first starting it.
There are extra power cables going to the flame start and a non standard push button in the dash that looks like it might be a manual activation for flame start. I might rip all that out when I get chance.
I've not noticed any lack of power up hill and definitely no smoke .
Do you know which air filter is fitted to these engines? There wasn't one fitted when I bought it (it was still smokey) I've put one in from euro car parts but there's nothing to hold it in place and kinda rattles about a bit.

One thing I did notice last time I drove it, going down hill when I decelerate the heater coil (flame start) light flickers on and off. I've never seen it do anything else other than go on and off quickly before cranking.
That may be due to non availability of replacement flame starter control unit, which could have failed, but a failed unit should not have been left connected.
 
I've changed the cam belt, it took longer to put the cover back on then it did anything else, I kept getting it stuck on the power steering hose 😆
Timing is bang on.
the rocker cover was leaking so I've changed that and degreased the engine best I can and I've cleaned up all the electrical connections.
It starts much easier now but it was still smokey. I did find that the turbo air intake hose from the air box has been wrapped in tape and cable tied, I presume it's because of a split. Would this cause the smoke? Too much air?
I've managed to get another couple of cable ties on and it started even quicker and didn't smoke but the engine was a bit warmer.... I'll try it again tomorrow and sleep with my fingers crossed.
 
I've changed the cam belt, it took longer to put the cover back on then it did anything else, I kept getting it stuck on the power steering hose 😆
Timing is bang on.
the rocker cover was leaking so I've changed that and degreased the engine best I can and I've cleaned up all the electrical connections.
It starts much easier now but it was still smokey. I did find that the turbo air intake hose from the air box has been wrapped in tape and cable tied, I presume it's because of a split. Would this cause the smoke? Too much air?
I've managed to get another couple of cable ties on and it started even quicker and didn't smoke but the engine was a bit warmer.... I'll try it again tomorrow and sleep with my fingers crossed.
Just a small point! nearly every problem following a cambelt change that appeared successful for sometimes 200 miles or so, appeared to be related to the securing of the cam belt cover where the spacer sits over the cover but is part of the tensioner support/mounting.
I am sure you have done it correctly, but what seems to happen is if spacer not in correct position then as the nut on the cam belt cover is secured it seems to affect the tightness of the tensioner which subsequently allows belt to slacken and destroy the engine as when valves hit the piston they bend the con rod resulting in a total engine rebuild.:(
Some of these have been where a recent Motorhome buyer has asked for cambelt to be replaced by a local garage as good practice thinking then safe for many miles, but has resulted as I described, possibly where the mechanic is not familiar with that engine.:(
Re split turbo hose the problem is usually after the turbo when causing loss of boost pressure, so less of an issue if before turbo , except on engines with MAF sensor between air filter and turbo so not an issue with older pre ECU engines.
 
I did double check the spacers before tightening them up but I'll do a shake down and then check again just incase 👍
There is a sensor on the air intake just after the air box, also 2 on the fuel filter housing and one on the filter bottom (for water I presume).
Is the air sensor and the fuel sensors for the cold start system?
Oh, I did take the hose off after the cold start solenoid and no fuel leaks through during start up or running so it's not that.
 
I did double check the spacers before tightening them up but I'll do a shake down and then check again just incase 👍
There is a sensor on the air intake just after the air box, also 2 on the fuel filter housing and one on the filter bottom (for water I presume).
Is the air sensor and the fuel sensors for the cold start system?
Oh, I did take the hose off after the cold start solenoid and no fuel leaks through during start up or running so it's not that.
Glad you already checked that stepped spacer arrangement on the cambelt cover.:) I have never had that problem although rebuilt a few in the past mostly on Ivecos, which being rear wheel drive once the front grill and rad are out the way are a lot easier to see what you are doing.
I suspect the problem is the stud comes loose that supports the tensioner when they are working on it so with spacer wrong it takes the load/tightness of the cam belt tensioner. When stripped I always tightened the stud using a suitable tool.
Generally I would say any loss of boost causing black smoke would be after the turbo.
However if yours has a MAF type sensor similair to the later ECU controlled systems then if faulty could affect fueling/black smoke when starting particularly if it is connected to the cold start device, although I wasn't aware of that sort of thing on your age of vehicle.
Perhaps @Communicator has more knowledge on that?
 
Glad you already checked that stepped spacer arrangement on the cambelt cover.:) I have never had that problem although rebuilt a few in the past mostly on Ivecos, which being rear wheel drive once the front grill and rad are out the way are a lot easier to see what you are doing.
I suspect the problem is the stud comes loose that supports the tensioner when they are working on it so with spacer wrong it takes the load/tightness of the cam belt tensioner. When stripped I always tightened the stud using a suitable tool.
Generally I would say any loss of boost causing black smoke would be after the turbo.
However if yours has a MAF type sensor similair to the later ECU controlled systems then if faulty could affect fueling/black smoke when starting particularly if it is connected to the cold start device, although I wasn't aware of that sort of thing on your age of vehicle.
Perhaps @Communicator has more knowledge on that?
I am puzzled as to how the suggested MAF sensor could be utilsed on an engine having mechanically controlled injection. That being said I recall reading the some 8140.43 engines were fitted with EGR, which required a MAF sensor, and basic computer for control.

May comment more on earlier posts in this thread.

1. I have never been convinced that I have found the flywheel locking hole on my 2.8jtd, and as I have made a locking device using the starter studs, I have wound back my investigations, but dropping something like an 8mm drill into the correct place would be quicker to use.

2. Yes putting the cover back on is a fiddle, but for my 2.8jtd I have made an engine support beam, which allows removal of the RHS engine mounting, and pushing the vehicle slightly out of its garage for better access at the front.

3. Even though I was aware of the stepped washer problem, I still managed to get it wedged at an angle, on first of my belt changes, and I only discovered that at the second of my changes.

4. If the fuel filter is of the metal canister type, then it will have fuel heater, and temperature sensor at the top, with water sensor at the bottom.

5. The Bosch VE injection pump should have a boost sensing pipe connecting to the inlet manifold, or turbo outlet.

6. Over fuelling and excessive smoke should be the primary concern, but the flickering flame starter light should not be ignored. Logic suggests that the flame starter should be triggered by engine temperature. Having had my 2.8jtd since new, I cannot recall the flame starter operating. This is partly because, as I do not want to fill the garage with fumes, I avoid starting in sub zero conditions whenever possible.
 
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I don't think this engine has any form of engine management, I would guess that the sensor on the air intake is air temperature which kicks in the flame start. Could be wrong though.
I did start the van recently in cold weather and the light lit up solid and then flashed as it should so I presume that side of things is working properly anyway.
I did find that the extra wires going via a momentary switch are only connected to the glow plug and not the cold start fuel solenoid, I'll leave them in for now.
There is only one wire going to the pump and I presume that is the fuel solenoid.
How is mixture or timing automatically adjusted ? Via the vacuum pipe from the inlet?
 
I don't think this engine has any form of engine management, I would guess that the sensor on the air intake is air temperature which kicks in the flame start. Could be wrong though.
I did start the van recently in cold weather and the light lit up solid and then flashed as it should so I presume that side of things is working properly anyway.
I did find that the extra wires going via a momentary switch are only connected to the glow plug and not the cold start fuel solenoid, I'll leave them in for now.
There is only one wire going to the pump and I presume that is the fuel solenoid.
How is mixture or timing automatically adjusted ? Via the vacuum pipe from the inlet?
Not sure about cold flame start device controls, my 1997 2.8 IDT always started without it in my boat Summer or Winter. The only other engines I had with those were Perkins 4.108s in boats, Ford Transit Mk 1s and early Bedford CFs.
Single wire to injector pump sounds like fuel shut off solenoid.
They did also have a cold fast idle with a wire to it on the injector pump, between that and the engine, @Communicator is more familiar with that operation than me.
Injection fuelling and timing once basic settings have been done on installation are set from factory and usually any adjustment has a seal on it.
The pressure (or as I wrongly thought vacuum) pipe to top of injector pump does alter fueling slightly when engine turbo is boosting.
 
I only have one wire to the pump but there is an empty connector on the loom at the bottom of the radiator pointing in that general area, I can't see if and where it would connect to with the radiator in the way.
 
I only have one wire to the pump but there is an empty connector on the loom at the bottom of the radiator pointing in that general area, I can't see if and where it would connect to with the radiator in the way

Please see this link to Motor Roam website. Scroll down to the picture of a "waxstat ", which should be the first photo.
 
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I thought that I had posted something about this, a few minutes ago. I am afraid that I may have pressed the wrong button, which is quite possible as I am feeling ill as the result of a severe cough, I will try again. See this link to Motor Roam, and scroll down to first photo showing a waxstat. Other wiring in the same area may be for cooling water thermostatic switch, which typically screws into the RHS of the radiator.

And now the missing post has appeared.
 
There's nothing that looks like that on this engine.

I've also got two sensors towards the back of the engine behind the cam cover. Is one of these water temperature? The gauge only ever reads 60° at most so I need to change that sensor.
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I found my answer to the the rear sensors. Water temperature and emergency stop water temperature apparently
On later engines up to 2006, the gauge and emergency stop thermostat are combined and utilise an earth return. The combined unit has an M16 x 1.5 thread, and measures 22mm over the flats of the hexagon.

My temperature gauge was behaving incorrectly, so I ordered a replacement. Quite by accident I found that reseating the connector and some contact cleaner were all that was required.
 
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