Technical 100hp rear calipers Hex bolt rusted away

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Technical 100hp rear calipers Hex bolt rusted away

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Needed to change the rear discs and pads on the 100hp yesterday. Got one of carrier bolts out but the other was do badly rusted that the 8mm just rounded off. So had to just put it all back together as I haven't got a replacement bolt.

What's the best way to remove it and where do I get replacement Hex bolts please that don't cost the earth.

Cheers

🐼
 

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By far the easiest way it to weld a nut on

Or pay someone to weld a nut on


Something like this may or may not work

Screenshot_20241121-175517.png


Cutting the head off and drilling and hammering in an easy out will work, might need some heat as well

Screenshot_20241121-180016.png


The more common spiral type rarely work if the bolt is tight

Screenshot_20241121-184321~2.png


I have a set of these

Screenshot_20241121-184753.png


I bought at a car boot for 33p no idea if they are any good as I have never needed to use them yet
 
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By far the easiest way it to weld a nut on

Or pay someone to weld a nut on


Something like this may or may not work

View attachment 455656

Cutting the head off and drilling and hammering in an easy out will work, might need some heat as well

View attachment 455660

The more common spiral type rarely work if the bolt is tight

View attachment 455669

I have a set of these

View attachment 455668

I bought at a car boot for 33p no idea if they are any good as I have never needed to use them yet
Cheers mate. Haven't got access to a wedding rig. I'll buy some those stud removal tools and see if it works. Might have to be a garage job in the end😞
 
There's more than one way

Cut or grind the head off and heat the area to cherry red and wind the stub out with some vice grips, this is how I normally remove the bolts from the exhaust heat shield as it's hard to fit power tools in, except I snap the heads of those that don't undo

From memory, the bolts aren't usually that tight once they get moving but they are thread locked, so heat is your friend
 
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I have a similar box of extractors as in @koalar photos, you may need to hammer them on a little to get started , but have helped many times on tricky jobs.
Heat and oil also a help as mentioned.:)
I have never seen the last type, interesting design as long as well made.
 
I have a similar box of extractors as in @koalar photos, you may need to hammer them on a little to get started , but have helped many times on tricky jobs.
Heat and oil also a help as mentioned.:)
I have never seen the last type, interesting design as long as well made.
Yer I plastered them with WD40 the day before, hoping that it would do the trick. Even wire brushed the bolts well before I started. Whole car has been Lanoguard now so when I get that little bugger out and find a new bolts - that will get the treatment to. Have to say I'm really impressed with this rust prevention.
 
Your not the only one, it's fairly common




There's a good point I missed in the video, he uses a long bar to wiggle the caliper to break the initial seal after one bolt is removed

If that does not work a tap with a block of wood and a club hammer might get it started

I did a little experiment here


No amount of soaking will work if the two parts have grown together, once the seal broken soaking works

Shocking sometimes works, repeatable tapping firmly the bolt head

I use heat most of the time

 
Your not the only one, it's fairly common




There's a good point I missed in the video, he uses a long bar to wiggle the caliper to break the initial seal after one bolt is removed

If that does not work a tap with a block of wood and a club hammer might get it started

I did a little experiment here


No amount of soaking will work if the two parts have grown together, once the seal broken soaking works

Shocking sometimes works, repeatable tapping firmly the bolt head

I use heat most of the time


I've just watched that video. He got there in the end. Good effort! Appreciate your post here mate. Very helpful indeed. Cars in fir MOT today. Fingers crossed it gets through and I can then get these MTE8 discs and pad on 🫰
 
The moving the whole unit with a bar once one bolt removed is something I have had to use over the years, it also allows a little more oil to be trickled around the seized one and also if you have the extractor and bar on the seized nut/bolt trying to gentle turn, it will sometimes start to revolve as you move the whole unit with the other bar once you can get some movement.
It sounds like you need as many hands as an octopus, but is usually possible even working on your own, I generally did, as I suspect most of us have too.;)
 
Shop 4 Parts probably has the OEM bolts in stock. But they'll be 10.9 spec zinc plated. Once installed, some grease around the bolt head (inside the hex if it's a socket head) will keep the inevitable at bay.
Cheers mate. I'll contact them this morning and get them ordered 👍
 
Look VERY closely at the hand brake lever seals on the backs of your rear calipers (and of course the piston seals). That said, both of mine looked ok but leaked fluid a few weeks after fitting new brake pads. I replaced one side and the other followed six months later. Annoying because a pair of callipers is not much more money than buying a single one.

A pair costs about £80. Left is Fiat part 735255967. Right is Fiat part 735255968. Bolts are 46417117. They have a captive washer but that's a convenience for the factory. Ordinary high tensile bolts and flat washers are fine.

eBay shows the same parts for Fiat 500 and Panda 1.4.
 
Look VERY closely at the hand brake lever seals on the backs of your rear calipers (and of course the piston seals). That said, both of mine looked ok but leaked fluid a few weeks after fitting new brake pads. I replaced one side and the other followed six months later. Annoying because a pair of callipers is not much more money than buying a single one.

A pair costs about £80. Left is Fiat part 735255967. Right is Fiat part 735255968. Bolts are 46417117. They have a captive washer but that's a convenience for the factory. Ordinary high tensile bolts and flat washers are fine.

eBay shows the same parts for Fiat 500 and Panda 1.4.
That's a great help mate. Especially the part numbers. I'll take a look at those over the weekend. Was hoping to get on the car this weekend, but it looks like it's gonna pour down for a week here in no so sunny Wales!


The good news though... The old girl passed her MOT today with just two advisory.. Both front indicator bulbs need to be replaced because they weren't orange enough! I've got some in the car so I'll change them soon.

🐼
 
Yer I plastered them with WD40 the day before, hoping that it would do the trick. Even wire brushed the bolts well before I started. Whole car has been Lanoguard now so when I get that little bugger out and find a new bolts - that will get the treatment to. Have to say I'm really impressed with this rust prevention.
Just for the record. WD is not really a freeing agent. it's a water repellent and a slight lubricant. The best agent by far is a 50/50 Acetone and a light oil mix preferably power steering fluid.
 
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