Technical 1.6 cutting out and ASR failure etc etc

[moschino02]

Cutting out has returned - just cut whilst idle in traffic no message appeared on dash , then 5 minutes later with just loose connection nothing else..

 

[ricardo]

Hi All

My Stilo cut out twice today with" ASR failure loose connection " warning on a 40 mile journey.

It looks like fitting a new brake light switch was not the solution.

Moschino - has the crankshaft sensor worked for you ?

I'll have to decide soon whether to spend any more cash on my Stilo or I'll have to get another car.

 

[moschino02]

Hi All

My Stilo cut out twice today with" ASR failure loose connection " warning on a 40 mile journey.

It looks like fitting a new brake light switch was not the solution.

Moschino - has the crankshaft sensor worked for you ?

I'll have to decide soon whether to spend any more cash on my Stilo or I'll have to get another car.

As above

 

[james2609]

Check the D4 plug under the fuse board, check for moisture etc, give it a good clean. Also check the earths are all good and clean too. What are your fault codes?

 

[moschino02]

Sorry cant offer much but Im useless with cars..all the earth/ wiring was the first thing i got checked out by independant garages ..no fault codes coming from ecu apparently

 

[ricardo]

Hi All

My car usually cuts out when the engine is hot and I'm slowing down at a roundabout or traffic lights. The rpm is usually low and its never happened when accelerating.

The only code I'm reading is P0571 Brake switch A circuit malfunction.

I've changed brake switch bit not checked earths etc.

Moschino- sorry to hear crankshaft sensor didn't fix it for you.

At the end of the day it might be the ecu which is faulty!

 

[moschino02]

Hi All

My car usually cuts out when the engine is hot and I'm slowing down at a roundabout or traffic lights. The rpm is usually low and its never happened when accelerating.

The only code I'm reading is P0571 Brake switch A circuit malfunction.

I've changed brake switch bit not checked earths etc.

Moschino- sorry to hear crankshaft sensor didn't fix it for you.

At the end of the day it might be the ecu which is faulty!

Mine also cuts out when engine is on normal temp never when cold, but at anytime! Coming to a stop, accelerating even when idle. Im looking to have the ecu tested soon . i may give the ECUDOCTOR.co.uk a go.

 

[Stilonine]

check that...the same symptoms...how to fix???

"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdA6tlKyx7Q"

 

[moschino02]

There are a couple of vids on there if you read the comments some have said ecu solved theirs another bad earth on rear light another missing a rubber coil sleeve? Also someone said theirs was conflicting with rear sensor parking?.

I got my ECU booked in for testing next week..will keep you posted

 

[ricardo]

Hi All

My latest fault code is U1702 on ecuscan.

My Stilo is still cutting out but usually when hot and slowing down or stationary.

Does nayone know how to fix this ?

 

[yellowstilo]

yes - first clean your throttle body , check for throttle body ecu software update, check your crankshaft sensor , check the engine bay fuse box and at last replace your ecu....

 

[moschino02]

yes - replace your ecu....

yellow

Mine also happens after engine temp is normal..can a ecu repair specialist be able to detect a faulty ECU when cold -but if it happens when engine get hot? Hope this makes sense.

How do they get faulty?

 

[ricardo]

Thanks Yellow Stilo


I'll have a go at crankshaft sensor next. I've cleaned inlet control valve.

 

[yellowstilo]

yellow

Mine also happens after engine temp is normal..can a ecu repair specialist be able to detect a faulty ECU when cold -but if it happens when engine get hot? Hope this makes sense.

How do they get faulty?

not every faulty ecu can be diagnosed easy on the bench - parameters like heat in combination with vibrations are a tricky factor for testing....
Most faulty ecu's have problems with the BGA soldering of the main microprocessor (tiny soldering balls between the bottom of the microprocessor and the circuit board which suffer from hair cracks due to heat and vibrations)

 

[yellowstilo]

Thanks Yellow Stilo


I'll have a go at crankshaft sensor next. I've cleaned inlet control valve.

check,clean and adjust it before you replace it - air gap should be 0.5-1.5 mm but 0.5 -0.8 is better because this generates a higher/more reliable signal.
As there is a permanent magnet inside the top will attract metal particles, wipe the top with a cloth to clean it.

 

[Stilonine]

Thanks for the advice.I found from elearn how remove the rpm sensor.Is the same with crankshaft sensor? It's one sensor or two?the air gap,how to measure the distance 0,5-0,8 mm? I searched for the camshaft sensor but I didn't found something... If someone know where is it please tell me...

 

[ricardo]

I also could do with some advice on how to remove the crank sensor.

Is it at the back of the engine, and where does the 3 pin connector plug in ?

 

[yellowstilo]

Thanks for the advice.I found from elearn how remove the rpm sensor.Is the same with crankshaft sensor? It's one sensor or two?the air gap,how to measure the distance 0,5-0,8 mm? I searched for the camshaft sensor but I didn't found something... If someone know where is it please tell me...

The rpm sensor and/or the crankshaft sensor are the same sensor - it is positioned at the bottom of the Phonic Wheel (the toothed wheel on the pulleys where the belts are driven by the crankshaft / 1.6 engine)
You can spot it easily when you jack up the front of your car.
You can put a credit card between the sensor and the phonic wheel as a thickness gauge, that's about the right distance...
The camshaft sensor is behind the inlet camshaft valve timing belt wheel (difficult to explain in English for a Dutchman...) - they do not get faulty as easy as the crankshaft sensor.

 

[ricardo]

Thanks Yellowstilo

I'll have a look at mine later

 

[Stilonine]

The rpm sensor and/or the crankshaft sensor are the same sensor - it is positioned at the bottom of the Phonic Wheel (the toothed wheel on the pulleys where the belts are driven by the crankshaft / 1.6 engine)
You can spot it easily when you jack up the front of your car.
You can put a credit card between the sensor and the phonic wheel as a thickness gauge, that's about the right distance...
The camshaft sensor is behind the inlet camshaft valve timing belt wheel (difficult to explain in English for a Dutchman...) - they do not get faulty as easy as the crankshaft sensor.

Thanks for the advice yellow stilo. I will check next week