Hi Julie
It's been a while since I uttered various oaths while doing this task,but hopefully this should give you both a few pointers.
The "official"(i.e.as detailed on the Service n Repair CD)way goes something like this-
Loosen the clip on the air intake pipe(next to the air flow meter)then remove the complete air filter assembly(with the air flow meter still attached).This pulls straight up and off(no nuts or bolts to undo)with a firm tug.Then you can actually
see the thing a bit better!Remove the fuel filler cap to depressurise the system,then there are 3 10 mm fixings that hold the filter to it's "retainer".Disconnect the various fuel pipes and the 2 plugs for the heater and water sensor when you can reach them,and then wrap a plastic bag round the whole thing as it has to be tilted to get it out-it's still full of fuel so try and keep it as upright as possible.Once it's out and you have exhausted your vocabulary of Anglo-Saxon phraseology and expressed the view that it(the car/whoever decided that it was a good place to site the filter) has "uncertain parentage",empty out the remaining fuel and then you are ready to change the filter element.
The cd shows a "holder" thing mounted in a vice into which the casing is placed and then another "special tool" which is used to unscrew the retaining "ring"-neither of which I have,but I found that clamping it in a Workmate allowed me to tap the ring around and loosen it.It is-unsurprisingly-done up tight,and will have to be done up as tightly again when reassembling otherwise it leaks...don't ask me how I know that

I marked the ring and casing before taking it apart so I had some sort of reference when putting it back together.Then in the words of Haynes,reassembly is the reversal of the removal process(or something like that) and finally you can be thankful that you won't have to go through it all again for several 000 more miles!
However-and I haven't yet tried this,so can't say whether it's 1)just as much hassle as doing it the "other" way or 2)whether it
does give better access,but for the next time I was going to see whether taking off the wipers and the trim below the windscreen,and then the wiper linkage underneath would give at least a chance to "look down" on it and avoid the crouching down/bent double stance and the resulting cries of "Ooh me back" and the like...
Might be "six of one and half a dozen of the other",but it was just a thought!
Best of luck and thanks for reading all this!
Kindest regards
Michael