endrop - for all your online needs

Technical Can the centre bearing be changed on prop shaft. Panda 4x4, 2005

Currently reading:
Technical Can the centre bearing be changed on prop shaft. Panda 4x4, 2005

A

Andy greatwich

New member
Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Messages
2
Points
1
Hi, I've got a panda 1.2 petrol, 4x4.
Its a 2005 year, and the centre bearing has failed on propshaft. Makes a terrible bang when driving.
Does anyone know if its possible to change that bearing. Rather than buying complete shaft.
I found lots of bearings for sale on ebay which makes me think its possible to replace.
Thanks for reading, any tips much appreciated
 
a quick search on here shows its in two sections. looks like groove for a circlip similar to a drive shaft.
 

Attachments

  • prop.jpg
    prop.jpg
    15 KB · Views: 701
Last edited:
It appears some shafts are welded after the bearing is installed, found that out while looking onto replacing mine. had a couple of 4x4 garages look at it and both said it had been welded :bang:
Weather its an aftermarket or factory job who knows, but it is still the original shaft.
I did however find new complete shafts for less than £250, providing all the bolts come out free enough :worship: , the hex bolts to the flange joints are installed with red Loctite, should be a few hours under the car to replace.
 
supernova83 said:
It appears some shafts are welded after the bearing is installed, found that out while looking onto replacing mine. had a couple of 4x4 garages look at it and both said it had been welded :bang:
Weather its an aftermarket or factory job who knows, but it is still the original shaft.
I did however find new complete shafts for less than £250, providing all the bolts come out free enough :worship: , the hex bolts to the flange joints are installed with red Loctite, should be a few hours under the car to replace.
Click to expand...

the join is behind the centre support. Doubt you run a weld.

similar to this

different car, same idea

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1203765


some third party might be build differently although most do specify they are repairable.
 
Some have the bearing caps retained with dabs of MIG weld. To be honest its better than staking. Grind off the weld, knock out the bearing caps and clean up any burrs. You might need alignment jigs (vee blocks) to set it all straight then tack weld the bearing caps as the originals were done. If the ends are flush you wont need vee blocks.

This might help. Its a BMW with staked UJs. Knocks them out, files the old stakes and centre pops the new stakes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tz4qf8MSEGE
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much for all of your replies, I'm gonna tackle it today.
I might take shaft off, and use it in 2wd for a bit, just until I've sorted the shaft.
Never know, it might be a bit better on fuel
 
Ill be doing the same job soon, got to tackle an oil leak on the front diff output while im at it, just waiting for the seal to come, Dont forget your marks on the shaft to get it all alligned when it goes together, should stay balanced that way.
 
I think some folk are talking about the uj coupling here, rather than the centre support bearing . I f it is the centre bearing you want to change, yes , you can , I have just done this as on the one I look after. As A3Jeroen says mark the two shafts before they are split so that both go back on the same splines and balance stays the same.
 
boatlon said:
I think some folk are talking about the uj coupling here, rather than the centre support bearing . I f it is the centre bearing you want to change, yes , you can , I have just done this as on the one I look after. As A3Jeroen says mark the two shafts before they are split so that both go back on the same splines and balance stays the same.
Click to expand...

Any helpful tips to make the job go smoother?
 
Be Mindful of the way the centre bearing sits on the shaft. Also the Allen bolts can be a sod if you are too casual with the connection , there may be debris in the hex head you need to have a secure hold of the socket and a good bit , the heads tend to be soft.
 
boatlon said:
Be Mindful of the way the centre bearing sits on the shaft. Also the Allen bolts can be a sod if you are too casual with the connection , there may be debris in the hex head you need to have a secure hold of the socket and a good bit , the heads tend to be soft.
Click to expand...

Is it just brute force to separate the two half's ?
 
As far as I remember . The shaft can be eased apart using a nylon headed hammer . I cut the bearing shell out from the centre bearing to get a drift and hammer at it equally round the circumference.
 
Learnt a few things today, would be much easier on a ramp than stands in the garage, the allen bolts at each end appear to have red loctite, think im going to need a bit of heat to shift a couple, the bearing bracket bolts have blue loctite, oh and ive sheared two of the studs that hold the guard on, great.
 
DaveMcT said:
Thread lock will release if heated to 120 degrees C. Use a IR thermometer to be sure its hot enough.
Click to expand...

managed to get most of them cracked off with ignorance and force, there's two or three I can see the allen key slightly slipping in the bolt heads, luckily I ran out of tea so called it a day before I caused a big headache.
heare me thinking getting it off would be the easy bit :D
 
supernova83 said:
managed to get most of them cracked off with ignorance and force, there's two or three I can see the allen key slightly slipping in the bolt heads, luckily I ran out of tea so called it a day before I caused a big headache.
heare me thinking getting it off would be the easy bit :D
Click to expand...

Threadlock can be easily strong enough to shear fasteners or strip threads when its not softened with heat. Many manuals have standard text to heat fasteners to 120C to soften the thread-lock. I use a heat gun and IR thermometer.

As this is a prop shaft, The fasteners should be replaced, clean threads with a thread tap before rebuilding and use the correct thread lock.
 
Last edited:
DaveMcT said:
Threadlock can be easily strong enough to shear fasteners or strip threads when its not softened with heat. Many manuals have standard text to heat fasteners to 120C to soften the thread-lock. I use a heat gun and IR thermometer.

As this is a prop shaft, The fasteners should be replaced, clean threads with a thread tap before rebuilding and use the correct thread lock.
Click to expand...

new bolts on order, coming from Europe though, who knows how long they will take, thread lock already in tool box. front transfer oil leak to sort first so no rush for them.

Don't suppose any one knows the correct torque for the 12 pop shaft bolts?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
  • Question
Technical 2008 Panda4x4 prop shaft removal
Replies
3
Views
229
Charcoal man
C
S
Technical Panda 4x4 rear wheel bearing and hub
Replies
4
Views
260
Metzze
M
F
Technical fiat panda 2004/2005 battery
Replies
6
Views
139
ceecff
C
P
General 2005 panda body parts?
Replies
1
Views
214
koalar
koalar
D
Technical Differential bearing
Replies
7
Views
194
irc
I
Back
Top