You'll need:
• Head gasket set. I'd get the Fiat one next time. I got the FAI and the rocker gasket leaks. I wasn't sure the head gasket was going to align with the holes. The coil pack end seal was the too small and I had to go and buy the Fiat one.
• Cam shaft seal if it's not included in the head set.
• Head bolts. Again, get decent ones. One of my new ones stretched before full torque to Haynes manual spec. was reached it felt about to snap. I've snapped weak head bolts before torquing down high boost 5GTT heads extra tight.
• Maybe the cam belt, inspect yours and decide then or go by the mileage it's done.
• Shims. That a bit of a tricky one as you don't what what thickness's until you're doing it. I borrowed a box full from a garage for a few days and fortunately it contained all the exact sizes. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291385564097?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=590497917827&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
• New coolant.
• Maybe some specific socket spanners and extensions. There are a some hard to get to nuts, one or two on the back of the manifold.
• The right pliers or grips or pry tool to get the shims out or the buckets.
• Micrometer or digital or dial calliper to measure the shim thickness.
• Feeler gauge to measure the shim to cam gap.
• Assembly oil. I used some engine oil.
• Cleaning materials, brushes to clean out the oils ways, etc.
• Maybe a head skim. Make sure the swarf is removed from the front oil way before you put the head back on the car.
• Small torque wrench.
• The means to hold the cam or head while changing the sprocket if you need to, ie, big bench vice with soft jaws, etc.
• Haynes manual.
• Patience and time. Especially with getting that arch liner back on.

I put the car on a stand, the trolley jack under a wood block under the sump and took off the drivers side engine mount so I could move the engine up and down to get access to the various bolts, etc.

The 866 is maybe 1mm taller but it's the gap between shim and the back you measure to, not to the lobe tip. You fit the shims, turn the car a couple of trime to settle them in the oil in the buckets, then measure them all and write that down. Calculate what the error is and therefore what new thickness you need so as to achieve the correct gap. Go and get them. Fit them. Measure again. Get some more if they were not quite right.

Gazmac is talking about changing the cam shaft not the cylinder head?

If you turn 866 upside-down, what do you get? I presume 866 is the correct number and people haven't been referring to it incorrectly all these years?

The shims allow the clearances between the valves and cam shaft lobes to be adjusted. Most people take the shims from the doner then mix & match them with their existing ones using a feeler gauge to measure the clearances.

A digital vernier caliper measure is very useful for working with cars and good if the shims thicknesses are not visible any more. They are cheap.

Write it all down and if you need any more thicknesses you can order them on eBay.

They will run with clearances which are not spot on but people with mpi cars report they get warning lights if they Ares not set up right.

Fitting one in an spi should be more forgiving and a good opportunity to learn.

Ah yes, my mistake, thanks for pointing that out I was getting carried away there.

I had to change the head gasket at the same time.

I've looked on eper under the category 'distribution' in main engine components and the 866 cam is part number 7772866.

Brilliant thanks for that and yes it's 866 upside down lol
Thanks again

Do you have any pics of these shims ?

Wick web search should bring up images. They are the shape of a £2 coin.

When you take the cam shaft out they are underneath and lift out easily with a small screw driver.

gazmac said:

Do you have any pics of these shims ?

Click to expand...

Click on the link in my post.