Technical Cold air feed
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Technical Cold air feed
Nothing specific for the centos, but plenty of them at Demon Tweeks.
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This is my induction set up (with the later type front bumper).
It uses a custom made 8 x 4 inch duct and I think the Demon Tweeks ones are only 6 x3 inch, but should be almost as effective.
You have to take out the grill / light and then cut out an aperture in the plastic blanking plate behind it to mount the duct.
It works like a dream and has totally transformed the performance (together with other mods, though).
This is my induction set up (with the later type front bumper).
It uses a custom made 8 x 4 inch duct and I think the Demon Tweeks ones are only 6 x3 inch, but should be almost as effective.
You have to take out the grill / light and then cut out an aperture in the plastic blanking plate behind it to mount the duct.
It works like a dream and has totally transformed the performance (together with other mods, though).
How do you clean those filters if they're a sealed unit?
i would be good,but pop the bonnet and look. theres no space
would pop the bonnet if i had purchased it yet 
hopefully getting it next month.
Bit short on funds at the moment just had 4 new tyres on my polo set me back 180 quid including tracking.
Im currently compiling a list of stuff im gonna do to the beast when ive got it.
hopefully getting it next month.Bit short on funds at the moment just had 4 new tyres on my polo set me back 180 quid including tracking.
Im currently compiling a list of stuff im gonna do to the beast when ive got it.
dr_hillmann
Member
This is my induction set up (with the later type front bumper).
It uses a custom made 8 x 4 inch duct and I think the Demon Tweeks ones are only 6 x3 inch, but should be almost as effective.
You have to take out the grill / light and then cut out an aperture in the plastic blanking plate behind it to mount the duct.
It works like a dream and has totally transformed the performance (together with other mods, though).
im planning on doing a ducted induction kit, and was wondering whether you strictly need the air filter to be enclosed?
at low speeds is there still enough air flow through the pipe?
how does it compare to an open air filter in the bay?
and also, is the ducting pipe that surrounds the filter, is it all a sealed system between the engine and the bumper?
thanks alot
dr_hillmann
Member
yep the radiator hogs up the off side of the bumper, but a double forced induction would be quite sexual i can imagine!
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Okay, long post but questions answered in order :-
Cleaning the filter is a bit of a fiddly thing but it's just a case of releasing the very large jubilee clip that is on the top of the ally air box. This is what's clamping the base of the actual cone filter (the widest part) to the airbox, then it will come out of the box.
tbh I don't do that many miles so the amount of times I'm going to have to do it is negligable. (Different off-the-shelf 'sealed' filters will probably be easier to seperate than my custom made one).
Unless the entire system from air intake on the bumper right through to the throttle body is sealed, then it won't be performing as 'sealed' ram effect system. A system like this relies on air pressure building inside the air box to force air through the filter so it is then working as a 'positive' pressure induction. Normally air boxes work under 'negative' pressure as the engine has to do all the sucking to get air through the filter element.
This is a very loose comparison but image you were on a running machine with a thick wool balaclava on, you can still breathe but its difficult. Now swap the thick wool balaclava for a thin cotton one (to simulate a performance filter) and place a large fan blowing cold air in your face. Hey presto, breathing is so much easier and your running performance will be improved. Okay, I know cars and people have nothing in common, but I read this in a tuning magazine once (the now extinct CCC I think) and it made total sense in relation to car induction systems.
I can compare with an 'open' system very easily as before I built my current set up, I had the same Quikshift Racing stainless cone filter on the end of the induction pipe and just exposed in the engine bay with a pipe blowing cold air around it fed from the centre part of the grill in the bumper. In a word it was 'okay' at best. It gave a much louder induction noise but the performance improvement was very slight. I wasn't at all happy with it so, having built 'sealed' inductions on my previous modified cars (including my XR2 that I still have), I set about designing this system.
The difference now is unbelievable, it's like having a different engine!
There is still plenty of airflow at standstill and low speeds because then it's basically working similary how the standard air box used to (with the air intake that plugged into the hole in the front panel).
When the car is idling and you stand at the nearside front corner, you can hear the filter sucking air from the grill and the throttle response is still vastly better so it's getting plenty of air but at idle it's obviously not working as a positive pressure system anymore untill the car is moving again. It's still better than an 'open' system even when stood still, because it's not sucking in hot engine bay air, it's pulling it in from outside the car so there is a much reduced difference between the cold air the engine gets when it's moving and red hot air an open system would get as it was sat idling for a long time. The more you can reduce the temperature fluctuations the better it must be for the various sensors that feed the ecu info for setting the mixture.
I am planning on fitting an air induction temperature sensor with a readout in the car (I've got one of these in the XR2 which shows a massive drop in temp when the car is moving), so I'll be able to report soon exactly how much of a difference these sealed systems make.
Oh, and on the twin feed system - yes it would look really good, but there is only a set amount of air the filter will flow set by it's surface area and filtration material used, and tbh one efficient feed is plenty I think. And, like has been said, the rad is in the way on the other side anyway.
Cleaning the filter is a bit of a fiddly thing but it's just a case of releasing the very large jubilee clip that is on the top of the ally air box. This is what's clamping the base of the actual cone filter (the widest part) to the airbox, then it will come out of the box.
tbh I don't do that many miles so the amount of times I'm going to have to do it is negligable. (Different off-the-shelf 'sealed' filters will probably be easier to seperate than my custom made one).
Unless the entire system from air intake on the bumper right through to the throttle body is sealed, then it won't be performing as 'sealed' ram effect system. A system like this relies on air pressure building inside the air box to force air through the filter so it is then working as a 'positive' pressure induction. Normally air boxes work under 'negative' pressure as the engine has to do all the sucking to get air through the filter element.
This is a very loose comparison but image you were on a running machine with a thick wool balaclava on, you can still breathe but its difficult. Now swap the thick wool balaclava for a thin cotton one (to simulate a performance filter) and place a large fan blowing cold air in your face. Hey presto, breathing is so much easier and your running performance will be improved. Okay, I know cars and people have nothing in common, but I read this in a tuning magazine once (the now extinct CCC I think) and it made total sense in relation to car induction systems.
I can compare with an 'open' system very easily as before I built my current set up, I had the same Quikshift Racing stainless cone filter on the end of the induction pipe and just exposed in the engine bay with a pipe blowing cold air around it fed from the centre part of the grill in the bumper. In a word it was 'okay' at best. It gave a much louder induction noise but the performance improvement was very slight. I wasn't at all happy with it so, having built 'sealed' inductions on my previous modified cars (including my XR2 that I still have), I set about designing this system.
The difference now is unbelievable, it's like having a different engine!
There is still plenty of airflow at standstill and low speeds because then it's basically working similary how the standard air box used to (with the air intake that plugged into the hole in the front panel).
When the car is idling and you stand at the nearside front corner, you can hear the filter sucking air from the grill and the throttle response is still vastly better so it's getting plenty of air but at idle it's obviously not working as a positive pressure system anymore untill the car is moving again. It's still better than an 'open' system even when stood still, because it's not sucking in hot engine bay air, it's pulling it in from outside the car so there is a much reduced difference between the cold air the engine gets when it's moving and red hot air an open system would get as it was sat idling for a long time. The more you can reduce the temperature fluctuations the better it must be for the various sensors that feed the ecu info for setting the mixture.
I am planning on fitting an air induction temperature sensor with a readout in the car (I've got one of these in the XR2 which shows a massive drop in temp when the car is moving), so I'll be able to report soon exactly how much of a difference these sealed systems make.
Oh, and on the twin feed system - yes it would look really good, but there is only a set amount of air the filter will flow set by it's surface area and filtration material used, and tbh one efficient feed is plenty I think. And, like has been said, the rad is in the way on the other side anyway.
:slayer: Bonnet scoops rock.
Was trying to avoid bonnet scoop as it would add more drag, was trying to use the existing surface area on the front bumper.
Im just concerned about flies blocking the air filter at the moment, my gf lives like 30 mins into the country side and its full of those horrible things.
Im just concerned about flies blocking the air filter at the moment, my gf lives like 30 mins into the country side and its full of those horrible things.
drag,are you planning on going V max?
Ram air don't start working till at least 100mph..
My wife wife feels alive in the country and can't get enough of those horrible things..
Lol they are a pain in the arse, the front bumper on my polo gets slightly warm so they get baked on.
When it comes round to washing time thats where i have to focus most attention, even the preasure washer does not do an awful lot.
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if i cant go about fitting one either side looks like im gonna have to make one big one.
How would you go about making the actual intake duct?
Also would flys in the filter not be a problem? lol
thb I wouldn't go to the trouble of making the actual duct if I was doing another system myself, I'd just buy a ready made one from either www.larkspeed.co.uk or www.demontweeks.co.uk (or if you've a current Demon Tweeks catalogue, they're on page 83). Much easier, and if I'd known about them when I did mine I wouldn't have spent ages fabricating one from aluminium.
With regard to the fly thing, yes I suppose they could be a pain in the Summer (what's that
!!), but as long as you don't have a really wide mesh on the front, most will get stopped by that. Then, it's just a case of cleaning the filter every so often. The surface area of a pleated cone filter (especially a 'double' one with the second inverted cone in the middle) is really pretty big and it would take a hell of a lot of flies to effect its performance. Also, because of the air pressure, any that did get into the air chamber box, would collect right at the base of the filter, so wouldn't really be affecting anything.
