Hey Guys ..... ohh and Gals

So.... school boy error time, The ignition set has been removed from my car without marking, or at least noting, where everything goes i.e. .... complete distributor was removed, the rotor arm & cap and leads were removed....

I dont have a manual, and was looking for a wee bit help getting it all back together

can anyone please let me know the following.....

1. What cylinder is cylinder 1 ?
2. Which Plug Lead goes where on the Dizzy cap
3. When the distributor shaft/gear engages, roughly where should the rotor arm point


I have found the mark on the crank pulley and i pulled the spark plug out on the cylinder nearest the tailgate to check if its up...

Any help would be gratefully received

Thanks

Cylinder at the rear is number 1.
I believe the cap should have a 1 and 2 marked on it.
Looking in the cylinders will not help as both go up and down together. One will be on ignition cycle and one will be on exhaust cycle.
Can't help with distributor as I haven't removed one yet!
Damian

To my mind the critical issue is setting the static timing.

First, align the mark on the pulley with the zero timing mark on the crankcase. This will have both pistons at top dead centre.

Next, remove the rocker cover and see which rocker pair can be moved. The pair that can be wiggled means both the inlet and exhaust valves are closed. This cylinder then is at the top of its compression cycle with the mixture ready to be ignited. Doesn't matter whether it is #1 or #2 .

Now the fiddly bit is inserting the distributor such that the points are about to open. If it has been completely removed you will need to set it so that the points are about to open then turn the rotor anticlockwise about 90 degrees because when you insert it, the rotor will turn that much as the gears re-engage.

Once you've done this bit rotate the distributor until the points just open again. The static timing is now set and which ever lead is contacting the rotor at that point should be connected to the cylinder that is about to fire.

Tighten everything up and if your coil, condenser, plugs, fuel, fuel pump, carby etc. are OK, the engine should start and idle roughly.

Once the engine is running, setting/checking the advance is easy.

There are a few threads on the bb that address all of this.

https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/419213-difference-500-v-126-distributor.html

https://www.fiatforum.com/500-classic/226412-help-setting-ignition-timing-fiat-500-f.html

In the second thread I misidentify the cylinders. In reality it doesn't matter, but I apologise for any confusion.

Chris

One more photo may help.

Chris

thanks for all the help,

after reading all the posts, I have ordered a 123 ignition, so i'll wait till later in the week when it arrives then tackle the timing issue.

Many Thanks Guys,

I'll keep you's updated on how i get on

The 123ignition is much easier to fit and time.

It's still worth having a functional points distributor as a spare though.

Chris

Bambino said:

The 123ignition is much easier to fit and time.

It's still worth having a functional points distributor as a spare though.

Chris

Click to expand...

I have a 123 on mine but it came with no instructions. How do I know when timed properly? The LED light is steady? My engine pings a bit when under load (going up a hill) so I think my timing is off.

Labman said:

I have a 123 on mine but it came with no instructions. How do I know when timed properly? The LED light is steady? My engine pings a bit when under load (going up a hill) so I think my timing is off.

Click to expand...

All other things being equal, rotate the distributor until you get the best idle and throttle response. I timed mine with a light to get the correct advance by the book but still had to rotate it a bit until I was happy with the engine response.

Chris

So.........

Finally got her to run

My timing was completely wrong, so thanks for all the help in getting it sorted.
I have just fitted new electronic points and coil pack and the car is much greater for it.

Next job...... starter motor ( shaft bearing is worn out )

Ohhhhh...... can someone tell me what the voltage should be at the battery ( with the car running )... I have a dynamo and its only putting out 12.6 Volts @ 2000 Rpm ???

I know i should have started a new thread, but I'm really lazy :bang:

Cheers
Andy

Andy..stop being lazy (or least stop admitting to it ) and check the "sticky" of Matt's Dad's documents. He has covered every angle. It says that the max output should be 14.2 and.13.2 is where the cut-out activates. So I guess you must know that your battery is not getting a good charge.