General 2.8jtd early 2006

[alanalfa]

Hi folks just purchased an early 2006 2.8jtd camper 86000 miles and regularly serviced
Seems to be burning blue smoke under load when cold as it gets up to temp smoke disappears, also seems to be burning a lot of fuel.
Appreciate any help

 

[Communicator]

Blue smoke is usually a sign of lubricating oil being burnt. It has a distictive smell. Check oil level with dipstick, to confirm that sump is not overfilled.

 

[alanalfa]

Blue smoke is usually a sign of lubricating oil being burnt. It has a distictive smell. Check oil level with dipstick, to confirm that sump is not overfilled.

Blue smoke is usually a sign of lubricating oil being burnt. It has a distictive smell. Check oil level with dipstick, to confirm that sump is not overfilled.

Thank you communicator
Would this happen when it is cold ? When it gets up to running temp it doesn’t smoke at all

 

[Communicator]

Thank you communicator
Would this happen when it is cold ? When it gets up to running temp it doesn’t smoke at all

I would expect it to happen with engine hot or cold, but perhaps less visible when hot. Have you checked the oil level?

 

[alanalfa]

Yes Checked the oil level and it looks ok
Not long been serviced

 

[bugsymike]

Yes Checked the oil level and it looks ok
Not long been serviced

May be a sign of piston/bore wear which improves as engine warms up and expands.
I have often heard engines that have "piston slap" when cold but it disappears when hot.
10/40 synthetic oil is recommended, but I seem to recall when running Iveco Daily's with same basic engine using 15/40 Iveco oil from the Dealers.
Make sure thermostat is working and getting up to correct temp quickly.
I always let mine warm up without to much load until up to temp and then they were fine to give full throttle within reason as not a modern high revving engine, just loads of good pulling power, much better engine than the later replacement in my opinion apart from economy.
I have rebuilt a few in the past but unless valves hit pistons causing damage all that was generally needed was a hone of the bores and new piston rings.

 

[alanalfa]

Thanks for the info Mike
Oddly enough when I do let it idol until the temp is up it hardly smokes at all
I’ve had it almost a year and have never needed to top up oil. Would it be leave as is or look at getting the work done on the engine in the near future ?
Bearing in mind it is never driven hard for consumption reasons
Ty

 

[bugsymike]

Thanks for the info Mike
Oddly enough when I do let it idol until the temp is up it hardly smokes at all
I’ve had it almost a year and have never needed to top up oil. Would it be leave as is or look at getting the work done on the engine in the near future ?
Bearing in mind it is never driven hard for consumption reasons
Ty

As long as it doesn't get worse and you change oil and filter by time rather than mileage, I would carry on as you are.
Always make sure engine fully warmed up before Mot tests etc.
As diesel oil gets dirty fairly quickly I am a fan of using something like Wynns engine oil flush before every oil change, especially on older diesels as they tend to get more "blow by" past worn pistons contaminating the oil, although not everyone shares my thoughts on this.
As a side thought, around 30 odd years ago I had an old Leyland diesel that smoked a lot from cold though ran perfectly and never used a drop of oil, however to please a neighbour I totally stripped and rebuilt the engine costing me around £600 in materials and it was exactly the same.

 

[alanalfa]

As long as it doesn't get worse and you change oil and filter by time rather than mileage, I would carry on as you are.
Always make sure engine fully warmed up before Mot tests etc.
As diesel oil gets dirty fairly quickly I am a fan of using something like Wynns engine oil flush before every oil change, especially on older diesels as they tend to get more "blow by" past worn pistons contaminating the oil, although not everyone shares my thoughts on this.
As a side thought, around 30 odd years ago I had an old Leyland diesel that smoked a lot from cold though ran perfectly and never used a drop of oil, however to please a neighbour I totally stripped and rebuilt the engine costing me around £600 in materials and it was exactly the same.

Ty
I’ll leave as is for now, the motor will be serviced with oil and filter change with every MOT regardless of miles. Would this be ok ? Or would you suggest sooner ?
I am a complete novice and any-all information is appreciated

 

[bugsymike]

Ty
I’ll leave as is for now, the motor will be serviced with oil and filter change with every MOT regardless of miles. Would this be ok ? Or would you suggest sooner ?
I am a complete novice and any-all information is appreciated

Yes I would always do at least once a year regardless of mileage, but I also check the colour and smell of the oil on the dipstick, if very dark and pungent then time to change.
Not likely on yours , but some engines have issues where oil is thinned by leaking injectors or frequent DPF Regens, so always a good idea to check when dipping oil.
Condensation is another issue with campers etc. not used often, which can be seen under oil filler cap etc.
This can also be caused by defective thermostat staying open so engine rarely reaches correct running temperature.

 

[alanalfa]

Yes I would always do at least once a year regardless of mileage, but I also check the colour and smell of the oil on the dipstick, if very dark and pungent then time to change.
Not likely on yours , but some engines have issues where oil is thinned by leaking injectors or frequent DPF Regens, so always a good idea to check when dipping oil.
Condensation is another issue with campers etc. not used often, which can be seen under oil filler cap etc.
This can also be caused by defective thermostat staying open so engine rarely reaches correct running temperature.

Sorry for all the ?s how do we tell a defective thermostat

 

[bugsymike]

Sorry for all the ?s how do we tell a defective thermostat

If thermostat is working correctly engine temperature gauge after about 2-3 miles should be approaching "normal" as in centre of gauge around 90 degrees Centigrade. Around halfway on the scale.
This also means the heater will be blowing nice warm air out.
If generally stays low, around a third off the cold mark then thermostat not working

 

[alanalfa]

Cheers
I’m guessing it works ok as the temp gauge goes up to half way and heater is very warm
Thanks folks

 

[Ocwobio]

Mine takes more than 3 miles to warm up! But, it has a much larger coolant capacity than standard. On odd the odd occasion, I have seen the very slightest blue haze from cold, after the vehicle has stood for 6 months or more. Only twice in 11 years, so not every time by any stretch, and gone within a few seconds anyway. Do these 2.8JTD's have valve stem oil seals? They may be a culprit in the Op's post?

 

[Communicator]

Mine takes more than 3 miles to warm up! But, it has a much larger coolant capacity than standard. On odd the odd occasion, I have seen the very slightest blue haze from cold, after the vehicle has stood for 6 months or more. Only twice in 11 years, so not every time by any stretch, and gone within a few seconds anyway. Do these 2.8JTD's have valve stem oil seals? They may be a culprit in the Op's post?

Good point OC. It brings back memories of fitting new "O" rongs to valve guides on diesel Landrover many years ago. I cannot find a mention of "O" rings / seals in eLearn, so perhaps not, or can you peel another layer off the eLearn "onion"? Also valve guides a re reamed to close tolerances, so perhaps seals less likely.

 

[bugsymike]

Coastal has a listing for them , but out of stock.