Most Easterly Pandas said:

How much have your insurance company charged you upon declaring the none OEM modification

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trackdayqueen said:

I'm thinking (when I get round to it) of having the alarm company fit central locking to my car, so I can open the doors on the alarm blipper. I wouldn't dream of declaring this to my insurance company in all honesty. They already have the details for the alarm which was a requirement. This is on my old car, not a Panda.

So in the OP's position it wouldn't cross my mind to call my insurance about that.

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mulaz said:

Hello
i have had my eco 2010 Panda for only a few weeks but the one thing that really ***** me off is the lack of remote central locking,
Fumbling in the dark to open a 21st century car is ridiculous
i only needed to motorize the drivers door lock to fully lock and unlock the whole car
So today i fitted a Hawk remote central locking kit to my 2010 eco panda.
£22 off ebay.
This afterwards was not the easiest job but worth it and my efforts may help others.

To start off when i took the drivers door cards off i found cable operated door locks and not rods.
so connecting the actuators has to be done at the door pull mechanism , you will find just enough room to fit the actuator clamp on the brass cable end connector. .
next was finding a position to place the motor actuator so that the door cards would not foul and after many hours of experiments and pulling may hair out i found that the only place to fit the actuators are in the space where the door tweeters should be , These have been left out for money saving so you have some room to fit the motor
But placing the unit hear in front of the door pull meant that the actuator wiring has to be reversed so that it pushed instead of pulled. i drilled and tapped 4mm holes to bolt the actuator to the door frame a few inches in front of the door pull.
a quick fiddle with the wiring was done. i found that that the main actuator has 5 wires and only 3 needs to be connected and 2 of these need swapping over to reverse the motor.
putting the door card back on the door with the actuator in place and fitting the connecting rod was ridiculously tricky but it can be done.
i then had to sort out routing the cables through the door into the foot well etc and final wiring also took some time but worth the effort
i will try to take some pictures and post these in due course
but it can be done for £22 and a afternoon of fiddling

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Peach Melba said:

Hi All,

I have a Fiat Panda Active 1.2 which comes with central locking only. As I am disabled, my hubby thought to make my life easier he would pay for remote locking to help me. However the company who was going to fit it advised that a part for the drivers door lock needs to be fitted first. Something about an actuator?

To cut a very long story short, for the last week I have rang all Fiat Dealers and been told the part needs to come from Turin Italy. I had ordered the part through the dealer, and this evening I have received a call from FCA Technical, advising that the order has been cancelled and that I will be refunded. There is one part based in Greece but that is not compatible with my Panda. It would seem the part is discontinued.

Naturally am very disappointed and mad as hell with Fiat. My hubby is good with Diy but not car electrics. If anyone is based in the North East of England that may be able to help me in getting my Panda to have what's needed for working remote central locking, I will make reasonable financial restitution for time and supply of parts, along with plenty of Tea, coffee, hot chocolate and as much cake-bickies.

Paula

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DigDug said:

Ive just finished fitting a remote central locking kit, which I boughton amazon for 11 quid, however i went about it a slightly different way.
If you can get your hands on a lock from a passenger door from a scrapyard, you can dissasemble the lock and remove the motor from it.
Then disassemble the drivers door lock and put the motor in that, it just presses in the slot. Hook up two wires to it, feeding them through the clear snap on cover which hides the end of the cable connected to the interior door handle ( you'll need to cut a notch in this cover to make space, I sealedaround it with blu tac)
Feed the cables through the door to the fuse box area, hook these up to your kit and bobs your uncle.
For power I found the fuse that runs the headunit (and dash clock) which will be permenantly live, and used a spur fuse (see attachment)
My local halfords had these in their audio fitting toolbox(not on shop floor, ask!)
This has space for two fuses, one for the fuse the spur replaces andvanother for the live feed
This removes the need for modification of any existing wiring in your car! Really useful.

If you would like a step by step guide then I can write one up, unless my post above makes enough sense? Either way, feel free to ask more about it.

Certainly my method is easier as you dont need to find a place to position a solenoid switch and figure out how to succesfully hook it up to the lock cable.

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