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This cant be for real...
- Thread starter GhostWKD
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This cant be for real...
scuttboy
Member
who would be stupid enough to actually by these??!!
scuttboy
Member
bloomin death traps
I guess at least they're not just taking their dads hacksaw to their coils....
been around for ages them mind
Would stainless steel cable ties work as I can't afford them :bang:
you can actually use nylon ones if you double up with them.
scuttboy
Member
this seems to be getting more and more lethal!
graystone engineering have been selling these things for years. they are well proven and imo a great idea. the only problem is that the bolts tend to shear their heads off from time to time, but other than that they do the job perfectly with minimal hassle or cost. personally i would recommend a bolt upgrade before fitting them to your car.
whats wrong with a frig - up?
i actually like the sound of that
i actually like the sound of that
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whats wrong with a frig - up?
i actually like the sound of that
Nothin if you are a chav lol but as this is the Fiat Forum I presume you aint... :nerner:
Friggin frig-ups...
yeah, they a bit ghey, although will work correctly most of the time.
Id rather shorten the springs properly (ie, flatten and form the end 1/2 coil to be the proper shape for the spring seat)
There are a lot of myths surrounding cutting and clamping springs, and you cannot simply say "cutting and clamping is dangerous" when it isnt if done correctly on the right suspension setup.
having said that, i would never tell someone to do either to stock springs - whats the point, when for around £70 you can have some uprated ones that are 100% safe and will handle better?
Id rather shorten the springs properly (ie, flatten and form the end 1/2 coil to be the proper shape for the spring seat)
There are a lot of myths surrounding cutting and clamping springs, and you cannot simply say "cutting and clamping is dangerous" when it isnt if done correctly on the right suspension setup.
having said that, i would never tell someone to do either to stock springs - whats the point, when for around £70 you can have some uprated ones that are 100% safe and will handle better?
Thing is, theres nothing wrong with doing that. Work slowly and you won't alter the steel composition around the sawn face - but be careful to avoid crack instigation through slipping with the saw.
Id stand by jug's commentry on the bolts -youde want to make sure they were decent grade bolts (8.8 at least).
But I really dont see the problem - uncontained spring clamp failure wont lead to a massively hazardous event as I doubt theyde have the inertia behind them to do anything other than leave a dent in bodywork, although I wouldnt want to use them myself.
tom, are you a metal expert? i seem to remember something like that....
anyway, do they heat treat modern springs or not? because i read in a suspension book that cutting springs is fine, and you can heat them up to bend the ends properly. Now this book was written in the 90's by a NASCAR and automotive industry expert. I wonder if it is still safe to heat em up, providing that you let them cool naturally?
anyway, do they heat treat modern springs or not? because i read in a suspension book that cutting springs is fine, and you can heat them up to bend the ends properly. Now this book was written in the 90's by a NASCAR and automotive industry expert. I wonder if it is still safe to heat em up, providing that you let them cool naturally?
No, definately no expert - I happen to have studied things of that ilk for a few years though.
Id expect some heat treatment will have been applied - probably a carburisation or similar to keep the outer surface hard but fairly crack resistant and still keeping some ductility as it's an item constantly under fatigue. I think you and I have been reading the same sources TBH - Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams...
Im not absolutely sure on the heat treatment youde have to give it - but the primary aim is to ensure the spring end is hard, not brittle but still ductile - well outside of pearlite / martensite regions in the outer area - but the slow cool time will help that (the hardest crystals are typically formed by cooling fastest)
yeah thats the same book as i have been reading
it would be interesting to hear what the experts say on the subject these days. (altough they would probably try and fob you off with a "its too dangerous" answer)
it would be interesting to hear what the experts say on the subject these days. (altough they would probably try and fob you off with a "its too dangerous" answer
)
Yep, been around for years and were aimed at the caravan tow-ers, for towing you use them in the opposite way to force the springs coils apart so the back of the tow car isnt on the floor.
I used them years and years ago to lower the back springs of a [dont laugh, oh go on then!] Talbot Horizon, the front had adjustable torsion bars which made lowering front suspension dead easy, literally undoing a nut along a threaded bar, then at the back I used these clamps to lower the springs, must admit I never had any trouble with them.
Its a lot of spanner work to make them fit, and they wont work if the spring sits in a recess when compressed or has a shocker down the middle of it.
I used them years and years ago to lower the back springs of a [dont laugh, oh go on then!] Talbot Horizon, the front had adjustable torsion bars which made lowering front suspension dead easy, literally undoing a nut along a threaded bar, then at the back I used these clamps to lower the springs, must admit I never had any trouble with them.
Its a lot of spanner work to make them fit, and they wont work if the spring sits in a recess when compressed or has a shocker down the middle of it.
