I need to weld up the rear jacking points. Are there repair panels available or do I need to make them up?
General Welding rear floor/jacking points
- Thread starter driver33
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General Welding rear floor/jacking points
OP
OP
Surely I am not the first one to need to weld a mk1 Punto...
Anyone have any info?
Anyone have any info?
there are no jacking points on the floor
OP
OP
Cheers. That's what I thought. The numpty that failed the Punto's MoT logged the falure as a rusty seatbelt mounting but told me it was the jacking point under the floor on the drivers side! The other main problem is lights that don't go off after you switch them on unless you disconnect the battery. Sounds like a relay fault to me but I have yet to find it. Could be part of the switch assembly.
The sills are sound but there is a bit of corrosion on the floor where there is some sort of strengthening plate. Anyone know what that is for?
The sills are sound but there is a bit of corrosion on the floor where there is some sort of strengthening plate. Anyone know what that is for?
moving the shell around on the production line i think they are for.
OP
OP
Cheers.
Sorted the electrical problem. Bad earth on the driver's side. One brake pipe to replace and it is back for a re-test. Not sure what to weld as the floor bits dont look structural to me. I will tidy it up but thats all.
Sorted the electrical problem. Bad earth on the driver's side. One brake pipe to replace and it is back for a re-test. Not sure what to weld as the floor bits dont look structural to me. I will tidy it up but thats all.
When i got mine MOT'd for the first time last year they told me that mine has the strongest least-corroded floor they've seen on this age punto(1995 - 55s)
~d3xt0r
~d3xt0r
marybakers
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he entered into a verbal contract when he said £90, by law he would have had to tell you before hand if it was going to be more iirc
tell him you under-estimated how much money you have and will just give him 50 quid, see how he likes it
tell him you under-estimated how much money you have and will just give him 50 quid, see how he likes it
marybakers
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is there any jacking points on floor of my punto mk1.roughly how much should he be charging me for welding,he said the hole was bout 10 inches now on both sides,i dont think he is being fair with me now,i am so angry,dont like being ripped off by any garage.will be naming him shortly if he rips me off.
jacking points are bottom of sill. some times puntos rust between floor an sill, but i wouldn't call that a rusted jacking point, its the same amount of work whether its 1 inch or 10 inch though so cant see why he would put price up
OP
OP
Some people think by mistake that the plate on the floor at the rear is a jacking point. An idiot had used one of them as such on my Punto (before I bought it) and as a result there was a hole in the floor. The mis-use of a trolley jack damaged the metal, burst the underseal which started the rust. Fortunately I can do my own welding so it cost me almost nothing to fix.
Although this was not really structural as such, the new MoT regs require that there are no rust holes within 30cm of a seatbelt mounting. With 3 rear seatbelts fitted to all Puntos this does not allow for much rust on the floorpan.
As far as your repair is concerned, they should have told you that it was going to cost more before carrying on with the work. Having said that, if they have done a good job it might be worth paying a bit extra. As Dave says, welding a 1" plate or a 10" doesn't take a lot more work but they may have had to lift carpets and remove seats to stop your Punto going on fire!
If he is talking £20 or £30 extra I would offer to meet him half way. If he is talking any more than that ask him for a full breakdown of the total number of hours worked on your car with the time of any additional work and the cost of additional materials clearly identified.
Although this was not really structural as such, the new MoT regs require that there are no rust holes within 30cm of a seatbelt mounting. With 3 rear seatbelts fitted to all Puntos this does not allow for much rust on the floorpan.
As far as your repair is concerned, they should have told you that it was going to cost more before carrying on with the work. Having said that, if they have done a good job it might be worth paying a bit extra. As Dave says, welding a 1" plate or a 10" doesn't take a lot more work but they may have had to lift carpets and remove seats to stop your Punto going on fire!
If he is talking £20 or £30 extra I would offer to meet him half way. If he is talking any more than that ask him for a full breakdown of the total number of hours worked on your car with the time of any additional work and the cost of additional materials clearly identified.
Im just having the same sort of problem i recently had an MOT guy that does MOT's on Porsche's and he done a thorough check and said all that needed doing with mine was a new track rod end on the passenger front side and some welding done near the driver rear jacking point.
Now the thing is ive got a welder of my grandads and know how to use it but im wondering do i just cut a square peice of metal out and then weld it so that its covering the currosion?
Now the thing is ive got a welder of my grandads and know how to use it but im wondering do i just cut a square peice of metal out and then weld it so that its covering the currosion?
no you cut out all the rusted metal first
Also unless you have a pit it's easier to do the repair
inside the car, take out the seat and ensure the carpet
can't be set alight with sparks. The tar stuck to the
metal can be removed with a scraper and heat gun.
Must be welded all way around not just tacked.
Leave the carpet so it can be pulled back for the
mot examiner to check the welding.
John
inside the car, take out the seat and ensure the carpet
can't be set alight with sparks. The tar stuck to the
metal can be removed with a scraper and heat gun.
Must be welded all way around not just tacked.
Leave the carpet so it can be pulled back for the
mot examiner to check the welding.
John
i just checked where it needed welding on the inside and there is already welding been done to it covering the bit that is corroded underneath so im thinking that there is no need for the welding now.
Call into the garage who mot'd the car and explain
that it had already been plated on the inside of the car
to cover the corroded part and see what the mechanic
says prior to taking it back for a retest, explain you
will leave the carpet so he can check under it.
Test it yourself too hit the welded area with a hammer
if it moves the job need re doing if the weld solid
it won't move. I normally use a lump hammer I'm not
gentle with it.
John
that it had already been plated on the inside of the car
to cover the corroded part and see what the mechanic
says prior to taking it back for a retest, explain you
will leave the carpet so he can check under it.
Test it yourself too hit the welded area with a hammer
if it moves the job need re doing if the weld solid
it won't move. I normally use a lump hammer I'm not
gentle with it.
John
yeah i hit it with the lump hammer and its solid not moving one bit.
The only other thing i can see is that there is a 1cm hole which will need welding and some kind of half cut circle in the floor?
The only other thing i can see is that there is a 1cm hole which will need welding and some kind of half cut circle in the floor?
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Originally, I used the sill underneath the jacking points. However, when I noticed the sill was getting a little bent, and saw these reinforced bits under the floor, I naturally assumed these were jacking points, and used them from then. Clearly this was wrong, and I ended up with the top of the jack in my passenger footwell. Photos for you to enjoy...
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damn man that suks
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