Technical warning light ??
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Technical warning light ??
Communicator
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That is the immobiliser warning light. Usually it means you will not be able to start the engine. The engine will crank, but not fire, so do not waste time trying if that is the case.
Rapido9090
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YOU are Correct
Communicator
.. AND ALSO I FOUND it as I lived in France for 15 years and I purchased my Rapido at the Paris show the hand book is all in French!!!??? so I went on line to get the uk version and here it is ...(In this case, turn the key to STOP and then to MAR-ON; if it is still locked, try again with the other keys that come with the vehicle. Contact a Fiat Dealership if you still cannot start the engine. IMPORTANT Each key has its own code which must be stored by the system's electronic control unit. THE KEYS CODECARD The vehicle is delivered with two copies of the ignition key and with the CODE card fig. 3, which bears the following: Contact the Fiat Dealership to have new keys (up to eight) stored with the code. Warning light ❒ If the switching on while driving warning light switches on, this means that the system is running a self-diagnosis (for example for a voltage drop). ❒If the warning light Dealership. stays on, contact a Fi) so thank you for letting me join but this time I managed myself BUT I may need this forum in the future thank you all Best Regards MELCommunicator HOW DO I RECTIFY ?? ANY IDEAS
The photo you posted appears to show the padlock on plus the engine is running? Did you start the engine with the warning lamp on?
Rapido9090
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Yes Ray ....it took some very slow turning over it sounded as if battery was totally flat but eventually it started and got me home in the motorhome.. I just hope I have not done any damage
Can you confirm that with a good battery the engine still starts but the padlock icon is still on?
If so my handbook says:
"Activation of the warning light while driving. If the warning light switches on, this means that the system is running a self-diagnosis (for example for a voltage drop)."
Shot in the dark but perhaps the low voltage caused the problem and the system is still running its test?
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Communicator
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Hi Mel.
A slightly belated welcome to the forum.
I think that @rayc , has already pointed in the right direction. Consider how old is the starter battery? Has it been kept charged? Also what is the condition of the battery connections, particuarly the earth. Then there is the infamous engine block earth strap, which is part of the starter motor supply circuit, but I cannot immediately see how that connection would present a low voltage elsewhere.
A slightly belated welcome to the forum.
I think that @rayc , has already pointed in the right direction. Consider how old is the starter battery? Has it been kept charged? Also what is the condition of the battery connections, particuarly the earth. Then there is the infamous engine block earth strap, which is part of the starter motor supply circuit, but I cannot immediately see how that connection would present a low voltage elsewhere.
Hi @Communicator
I've just watched a very interesting Youtube video by a chap called Eric O, who runs a shop in the USA.
He was just fault finding a car with very similar probelms, and it was all down to internal corrosion in the cables from the battery.
His methodology of fault finding makes a lot of sense, so have a look for South Main Auto LLC.
Cheers
Neil
Rapido9090
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Hi
Hi Ray (sorry a bit late coming back to you) Yes a fully charged battery..... now it makes 2 very slow engine turn overs but it won't start at all now
Rapido9090
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Hi Ray (sorry a bit late coming back to you) Yes a fully charged battery..... now it makes 2 very slow engine turn overs but it won't start at all now
As an anti theft measure I fitted a secret switch in the wires that run from the antenna coil around the ignition barrel to the computer - by which the computer communicates with the chip in the key. If the switch is off the padlock comes on and the engine will not start. But if the engine is already running the secret switch won't stop it. So I suppose it could be a bad connection somewhere that was on when you started the engine but the connection failed when the engine had started?
Communicator
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All sensible input should be welconme, but I understand from post #5, that the engne was started with the padlock icon lit. So not a key code recognition failure.
Communicator
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A normal cranking speed is quoted as 150rpm. Determining the speed without instrumentation could be problematical. If speed insufficient to achieve minimum fuel rail pressure, then injection will not be initiated by the ECU.
If cranking speed is considered sluggish, then the fault is basic. The battery may be fully charged, but could have developed a fault. The engine earth strap below LHS headlamp is a weak point on x250 and later models. Replace, unless already done. Check all connections in the starter motor circuit, including the battery earth connection. For safety follow shutdown procedure in handbook, and then remove battery negative while making checks.
If all is good then suspect starter motor.
Thinking outside the box, has there been any loss of coolant? Does engine turn over evenly, or struggle on one cylinder (partially hydrauliced)?
Rapido9090
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I would just like to say thank you to all who replied ..My problem is now sorted.. even though my engine battery ( as its on a Fiat 2.3 multi jet on a motorhome) was reading 12.8 volts the engine would not start it tried but sounded just like a Flat battery ( it Was) and immobiliser light was staying on ?? because I could not get to my garage, my garage I use for all my vehicles (1st class they are that's why they are so busy) although the owner was very busy he came up in his own time on his way home asked me to try to start no joy.. he put a rapid booster on the jump start terminals under the bonnet 1800 cranking amps the engine burst into life and the immobiliser light went out .. he said even though the battery was showing 12.8volts on a 850 cranking battery 110 amh it must have been shorting out inside as you tried to start.. he will order a new battery tomorrow and come tomorrow on his way home and change them over for me ..What a Man...one of the best...thank you to all
"For safety follow shutdown procedure in handbook" Can you please expand on that please? I'm searching for my handbook ;( .
I'm going have to see why I am getting that warning light and no heater plug light sometimes.
Communicator
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Welcome to the forum. I hope that you will contribute by reporting what you find.
The procedure applies to x250, and later post 2006 models, which have a canbus, and battery is under cab floor.
It is not applicable to my x244, but from memory, sit in cab with doors closed, and everthing switched off for 3? minutes before disconnecting the battery negative.
The aim is to allow the computer network to shutdown in an orderly manner, before removing the power.
