Technical Unavailable Part

Currently reading:
Technical Unavailable Part

DaveHolmes

Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
129
Points
94
Location
Johannesburg, South Afric
My Coolant expansion tank has split. According to ePer the part is not available. Has any member perhaps found a suitable replacement from another make or a good used one? I am in South Africa with the sole Barchetta - no used ones for breaking here!
 
My Coolant expansion tank has split. According to ePer the part is not available. Has any member perhaps found a suitable replacement from another make or a good used one? I am in South Africa with the sole Barchetta - no used ones for breaking here!
My Coolant expansion tank has split. According to ePer the part is not available. Has any member perhaps found a suitable replacement from another make or a good used one? I am in South Africa with the sole Barchetta - no used ones for breaking here!
Hi, I just searched on Autodoc UK and see at least one tank listed new at a low price. I recommend Auto doc service in both UK and Germany based on past usage. There was a problem with web access a few months back. They will ship anywhere world wide and service in the UK operation has been excellent.
 
It might be possible to repair your coolant expansion tank using the technique of "plastic welding".
Many Bodyshops can repair bumpers, grills and various broken plastic components using this technique.
There are also plastic welding guns/kits available for home use.
The simplest version of plastic welding would be to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic together at the split - might be worth a try?
(the Professionals can add extra compatible material and wire/mesh to reinforce the repair if required).
 
I used a soldering iron to repair a crack in my screenwash tank (successfully). Not sure that it would hold under the pressure of a cooling system.
I have used a professional Leister Hot Air plastic welding tool in the past it would go up to 600 degrees C.
It came from a commercial garage auction and was used for repairing "curtain sides" for lorries, I used it to make a canopy for my boat and also to repair broken mirror plastic.
The main issue is identifying the correct plastic for filler rod, sometimes the part has a type written in it.
With skilled practice it could be used for the job you intend, however I never reached that level.;)
 
-------------------
The main issue is identifying the correct plastic for filler rod, sometimes the part has a type written in it.
With skilled practice it could be used for the job you intend, however I never reached that level.;)
This is why I suggested possibly consulting a Body Shop familiar with plastic welding and suitably equipped - they should know how to identify which type of 'plastic' is used and whether it can be reliably repaired (very important where cooling system pressure is involved).
The type of plastic welding guns I've seen have a chute into which sticks of suitable material can be fed to the joint/repair area - similar to a 'hot-glue' gun. The kits I mentioned include various metal staples ('u' and 'w' shaped) to reinforce the repair if required.
It would likely be cheaper to pay for this small repair at a suitably-equipped Body Shop than to purchase a kit for a one-off repair.

Some time ago, I read an article in one of the U.K. car magazines (possibly Car Mechanics?) that covered the use of 'plastic welding' on various car components plus the various kits available but I can't locate it at the moment.
Iirc, in the absence of any clue on the component as to which type of 'plastic' is present, there are ways of identifying the type by seeing what effect various solvents have on it or (gulp) setting fire to a sliver of the material pared from the component and observing the smoke....
(I wouldn't recommend setting fire to any plastic material, such fumes could be very dangerous to health).
 
Last edited:
This is why I suggested possibly consulting a Body Shop familiar with plastic welding and suitably equipped - they should know how to identify which type of 'plastic' is used and whether it can be reliably repaired (very important where cooling system pressure is involved).
The type of plastic welding guns I've seen have a chute into which sticks of suitable material can be fed to the joint/repair area - similar to a 'hot-glue' gun. The kits I mentioned include various metal staples ('u' and 'w' shaped) to reinforce the repair if required.
It would likely be cheaper to pay for this small repair at a suitably-equipped Body Shop than to purchase a kit for a one-off repair.

Some time ago, I read an article in one of the U.K. car magazines (possibly Car Mechanics?) that covered the use of 'plastic welding' on various car components plus the various kits available but I can't locate it at the moment.
Iirc, in the absence of any clue on the component as to which type of 'plastic' is present, there are ways of identifying the type by seeing what effect various solvents have on it or (gulp) setting fire to a sliver of the material pared from the component and observing the smoke....
(I wouldn't recommend setting fire to any plastic material, such fumes could be very dangerous to health).
Body shop good idea.
Several years ago I had a plastic "unsinkable" dory that the exposure to UV/Sunlight had cracked, at the time no one I found was any good at repairing them.
This is my welder it runs on 110Volt.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1502.JPG
    DSCF1502.JPG
    470.4 KB · Views: 27
I remember being in someone's workshop back in the 1980's and asked why all their (electric) power tools were 110 Volt.
Answer :- it's to stop the ****ers working here from stealing them and outsiders from borrowing them :rolleyes:
I love that:)
I also recall as an apprentice late 60s , the 240 volt metal cased tools often gave you a "buzz" in damp weather.
I also found when at auctions, whilst as you indicate the public buy and use 240volt, I could often buy 110volt and 415 volt equipment much cheaper, indeed I still use a 10hp 415 volt rotary phase convertor.
 
Back
Top