Technical Timing

[BarryH]

Hi all, so I am 2 weeks in now since the 1966 500F joined the family. I have to say I have enjoyed reading the wealth of knowledge on this forum as I am a total novice to air cooled engines.

I am now turning my focus to servicing oil, timing, plugs, points etc and have been reading the following post for setting the static timing and there is a reference that all 500 F have a timing notch on the crank case pulley and I just cant see one. The only mark I have seen is the attached on the oil filter cover. Do some pulleys have no notch and is this mark as attached the equivalent. Any help much appreciated

Barry

Help setting ignition timing on Fiat 500 F | FIAT 500 (Classic)

Could someone help me on giving me some detailed instructions on how to set the ignition timing on my 1967 fiat 500F? I have a bulb light with pos and neg cables for testing; just don't know where to attach it and don’t know which spark plug chamber to check to see whether the piston is TDC...

www.fiatforum.com

 

[smart51]

Here's a link to my car. You can see two marks on the oil pump cover. 500cc engines have only the one, but it's in the same place.

Zelmot distributor advance | FIAT 500 (Classic)

I have a Zelmot distributor on my car. It has points but no rotor arm and uses a twin coil to make sparks for each cylinder. I've recently bought a strobe to check the timing. The static timing is right and it starts to advance if you blip the throttle. But if you sustain revs above about...

www.fiatforum.com

 

[BarryH]

Here's a link to my car. You can see two marks on the oil pump cover. 500cc engines have only the one, but it's in the same place.

Zelmot distributor advance | FIAT 500 (Classic)

I have a Zelmot distributor on my car. It has points but no rotor arm and uses a twin coil to make sparks for each cylinder. I've recently bought a strobe to check the timing. The static timing is right and it starts to advance if you blip the throttle. But if you sustain revs above about...

www.fiatforum.com

Perfect many Thanks

 

[the hobbler]

Here's a link to my car. You can see two marks on the oil pump cover. 500cc engines have only the one, but it's in the same place.

Zelmot distributor advance | FIAT 500 (Classic)

I have a Zelmot distributor on my car. It has points but no rotor arm and uses a twin coil to make sparks for each cylinder. I've recently bought a strobe to check the timing. The static timing is right and it starts to advance if you blip the throttle. But if you sustain revs above about...

www.fiatforum.com

Hi Barry; There IS a mark on the crank-pulley---look at where the timing mark is in the filter-cover and adjacent to it on the pulley you will see a thick (about 3mm wide) casting on the pulley that goes from the edge of the filter-cover to the edge of the pulley. For your piece of mind, despite how they look, the securing bolts on the filter-cover are NOT equidistant, so the filter-cover will only fit onto the pulley in one position. Whilst servicing the engine, it is wise to remove the filter-cover (some oil will come out, so have a tray under the pulley) and clean out any gunge in it, and also in the inside of the pulley.This 'gunge' is the muck that is centrifuged out of the oil! Refit with new 'O' ring seal. To make it easier to line up all the securing bolts in the correct place for refitting the filter-cover, prior to removing the filter-cover, turn the engine over until you can clearly see the timing marks---this job CAN be done with the cross-member in place, you just have to be a bit dextrous!

 

[BarryH]

Hi Barry; There IS a mark on the crank-pulley---look at where the timing mark is in the filter-cover and adjacent to it on the pulley you will see a thick (about 3mm wide) casting on the pulley that goes from the edge of the filter-cover to the edge of the pulley. For your piece of mind, despite how they look, the securing bolts on the filter-cover are NOT equidistant, so the filter-cover will only fit onto the pulley in one position. Whilst servicing the engine, it is wise to remove the filter-cover (some oil will come out, so have a tray under the pulley) and clean out any gunge in it, and also in the inside of the pulley.This 'gunge' is the muck that is centrifuged out of the oil! Refit with new 'O' ring seal. To make it easier to line up all the securing bolts in the correct place for refitting the filter-cover, prior to removing the filter-cover, turn the engine over until you can clearly see the timing marks---this job CAN be done with the cross-member in place, you just have to be a bit dextrous!

Hi, thanks for the info, yes I have the 'O' ring and looking forward to removing the oil filter cover with cross-member in place no doubt with much swearing as I attempt to bend my fingers into many different angles and shreading skin

 

[BarryH]

Thanks again all for the valuable input. Static timing all looks good. I have no historic knowledge of the engine so decided to swap out the plugs, points and condensor before overnhauling the carb. Decided to take a quick compression test both consistent, throttle closed they look ok to me but would be grateful of any input. Many thanks Barry

 

[the hobbler]

Thanks again all for the valuable input. Static timing all looks good. I have no historic knowledge of the engine so decided to swap out the plugs, points and condensor before overnhauling the carb. Decided to take a quick compression test both consistent, throttle closed they look ok to me but would be grateful of any input. Many thanks Barry

I was always taught that a compression-test was carried out with the throttle fully OPEN (did my apprenticeship on M/benz, Rolls-Royce, Bentley and Aston Martin)--but I will concede that was in the days when a compression-test was a 'normal' test to carry out.