So I got it working finaly (pic. 1)
The idea was to take the signal from the two coils so to have 4 cyliders singal. I red somewherre in the cinq forum the idea of using two diodes to prevent the two signals to short circuit resulting the engine to stall, so thats what I did. I used two 6A diodes and conected their (+) to each cable that comes from the coils and then both the (-) to the tacho signal cable (pic.2). I used plastic electricians clamps for the connections, wrap the hole thing with insulating tape and now lives at the back of the speaker pod.
I did the trial with an external cable but the final connections were made at the ECU connector to avoid running cable from the engine bay into the cabin. So I used pins 1 - 19 (White-black, white-green colored cables, careful not green or black-white!). It's easy if you want to do it like this, and I found it easyer than trying to hook the cable in the pinhole and hold it there.
So I opened the conector by removing the screw on the side, cutting the cable-tie that was holding the other end and sliding the back of the connector outwards (pic. 3). Now you can put the end of the cable inside the hole on the side of the connector and hold it there with the plastic thingy that came off when you opened the connector (it is actualy the guide) (pic.4). Slide the cover back and replace the cable-tie on the neck and the screw, and you're done! (pic. 5). Put the ECU connector back in place, feed the cable to your rev counter and use the diodes (if you are not sure which is (-) try it on one cable both sides, only one should work) and normaly it should work. It is the same as connecting directly to the coils but without the need to feed the cable from the engine, plus you don't risk the waterproofing of the coil connector by inserting a cable from the side.
Good Luck!
The idea was to take the signal from the two coils so to have 4 cyliders singal. I red somewherre in the cinq forum the idea of using two diodes to prevent the two signals to short circuit resulting the engine to stall, so thats what I did. I used two 6A diodes and conected their (+) to each cable that comes from the coils and then both the (-) to the tacho signal cable (pic.2). I used plastic electricians clamps for the connections, wrap the hole thing with insulating tape and now lives at the back of the speaker pod.
I did the trial with an external cable but the final connections were made at the ECU connector to avoid running cable from the engine bay into the cabin. So I used pins 1 - 19 (White-black, white-green colored cables, careful not green or black-white!). It's easy if you want to do it like this, and I found it easyer than trying to hook the cable in the pinhole and hold it there.
So I opened the conector by removing the screw on the side, cutting the cable-tie that was holding the other end and sliding the back of the connector outwards (pic. 3). Now you can put the end of the cable inside the hole on the side of the connector and hold it there with the plastic thingy that came off when you opened the connector (it is actualy the guide) (pic.4). Slide the cover back and replace the cable-tie on the neck and the screw, and you're done! (pic. 5). Put the ECU connector back in place, feed the cable to your rev counter and use the diodes (if you are not sure which is (-) try it on one cable both sides, only one should work) and normaly it should work. It is the same as connecting directly to the coils but without the need to feed the cable from the engine, plus you don't risk the waterproofing of the coil connector by inserting a cable from the side.
Good Luck!
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