Technical Problem with slow starter...

[Suechap1969]

I hope someone can help.

Upon starting up our 1968 Fiat 500, it seems the starter cranking speed slows down when the choke is pulled out. Once the choke is returned to normal, the cranking speed increases. Also to add to this, if I unplug the spark plugs, the cranking speed increases to a normal speed whether the choke is in or out. I believe the battery is new. It takes a lot to start from cold, but when it's warm, it seems okay. Also, when the car is warm with no choke, it tends to cut out when I come to a stop for junctions etc. The only way to sort this is to have a small bit of choke to bring the revs up. Not sure if this is related to my first point, but I thought I'd give an explanation of the whole story.

I'm thinking about carb set-up, timing maybe, poor earth on battery

Can anybody help please?

 

[bugsymike]

I hope someone can help.

Upon starting up our 1968 Fiat 500, it seems the starter cranking speed slows down when the choke is pulled out. Once the choke is returned to normal, the cranking speed increases. Also to add to this, if I unplug the spark plugs, the cranking speed increases to a normal speed whether the choke is in or out. I believe the battery is new. It takes a lot to start from cold, but when it's warm, it seems okay. Also, when the car is warm with no choke, it tends to cut out when I come to a stop for junctions etc. The only way to sort this is to have a small bit of choke to bring the revs up. Not sure if this is related to my first point, but I thought I'd give an explanation of the whole story.

I'm thinking about carb set-up, timing maybe, poor earth on battery

Can anybody help please?

If HT leads off and engine spins faster it can point to timing, as a starting point.

 

[Suechap1969]

Thanks for the quick reply. This was a thought of mine. Do you think the engine dying when I stop is linked to this then?

 

[bugsymike]

Thanks for the quick reply. This was a thought of mine. Do you think the engine dying when I stop is linked to this then?

Can be.
Well worth getting timing spot on then with engine warm adjusting carb to get all sweet.

 

[Suechap1969]

Thank you so much for this. I'll have a play this weekend and report back.

 

[the hobbler]

Thank you so much for this. I'll have a play this weekend and report back.

If you still have 'points' ignition on your engine, the static timing can be checked with a simple test-lamp---10 degrees BTDC. Don't forget---when you a ARE checking the ignition timing 'statically' to remove the "king" lead from either the coil OR the distributor cap (and replace it prior to trying to start the engine again!). Connect the test-lamp to the DISTRIBUTOR side of the coil and to earth--turn the ignition on and turn the engine over, clockwise (king lead DISCONNECTED)---the easiest way to turn the engine over is with a socket and ratchet on the dynamo's big nut. The timing light should illuminate when the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the mark on the timing-chain cover. If it doesn't, align the timing marks, loosen the distributor clamp and turn the distributor ANTI-clockwise until the light comes on. If the test lamp illuminates BEFORE the timing marks align, continue until the timing marks are aligned, then loosen the distributor clamp and turn the distributor CLOCK-wise until the test-light goes out, and then gently turn the distributor ANTI-clockwise until the test-lamp comes back on. Tighten the distributor clamp and turn the engine over a complete turn (still with the ignition on) to re-check that the timing is correct. Turn the ignition off, refit the"king" lead and start the engine.You will probably then have to do a little bit of adjustment to the idle-jet and idle-speed screw to get the idle correct. Your symptoms would indicate that the timing is a bit advanced. If your ignition has been changed to 'electronic', you will have to use a 'strobe-light' to ascertain the timing---but the same instructions on the distributor for correcting the ignition timing.

 

[Suechap1969]

Thank you for the detailed response.

The points have been swapped for the magnetic impulse parts, so I'll obviously need a timing light.

Due to not having any timing gear, I was wondering if it's worth setting up the markings for TDC and then knock it back the 10 degrees by about 13mm off the marks (I think I saw this on a other post). I could then adjust the distributer so that the rotor arm is smack on hitting the number 1 cylinder contact?

Or could I simply mark the distributer where it is now and simply retard or advance the timing to see if she turns over quicker and starts.

I have a multimeter, so could this be used instead of a light?

I'm just trying to understand a way without purchasing a strobe light. Or should simply take the hit?

 

[the hobbler]

Thank you for the detailed response.

The points have been swapped for the magnetic impulse parts, so I'll obviously need a timing light.

Due to not having any timing gear, I was wondering if it's worth setting up the markings for TDC and then knock it back the 10 degrees by about 13mm off the marks (I think I saw this on a other post). I could then adjust the distributer so that the rotor arm is smack on hitting the number 1 cylinder contact?

Or could I simply mark the distributer where it is now and simply retard or advance the timing to see if she turns over quicker and starts.

I have a multimeter, so could this be used instead of a light?

I'm just trying to understand a way without purchasing a strobe light. Or should simply take the hit?

Strobe lights are not very expensive; you don't need to get an "all singing and dancing version", just a simple stroboscope that does the job. You willfind that it is NOT a "one use only" tool, but a useful addition to your tool-kit.

 

[the hobbler]

accuspark

Thank you for the detailed response.

The points have been swapped for the magnetic impulse parts, so I'll obviously need a timing light.

Due to not having any timing gear, I was wondering if it's worth setting up the markings for TDC and then knock it back the 10 degrees by about 13mm off the marks (I think I saw this on a other post). I could then adjust the distributer so that the rotor arm is smack on hitting the number 1 cylinder contact?

Or could I simply mark the distributer where it is now and simply retard or advance the timing to see if she turns over quicker and starts.

I have a multimeter, so could this be used instead of a light?

I'm just trying to understand a way without purchasing a strobe light. Or should simply take the hit?

AccuSpark sell a strobe light for just under £20---I have one of these lights, and it does the job perfectly

 

[Suechap1969]

Thanks. Just purchased one from Amazon for £25.

So, I guess I just time off the cranking case pulley markings then and then advance or retard accordingly?

 

[the hobbler]

Thanks. Just purchased one from Amazon for £25.

So, I guess I just time off the cranking case pulley markings then and then advance or retard accordingly?

As a matter of principal, I never buy from Amazon, but to answer your question, follow my instructions to obtain the correct timing

 

[Suechap1969]

Hi, i can't see where your instructions are located, sorry.

 

[the hobbler]

Hi, i can't see where your instructions are located, sorry.

At the end of my advice for timing a distributor with 'points' (where you responded by saying "thank you for the detailed response" I mention that actually adjusting the timing is exactly the same as for the points distributor. It doesn't make a hoot of difference as to whether you have 'points' or 'electronic' ignition when it comes to the actual checking and adjustment of the timing.

 

[Suechap1969]

Thanks for clarifying. I'll let you know how it goes.