Technical Overheating panda fire engine
- Thread starter Good104
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Technical Overheating panda fire engine
Hi
So.. How quickly..
How long until temp gauge climbs..
And then where does it settle?
Just trying to eliminate the obvious..
About 10 minutes from starting her ,idlingHi
So.. How quickly..
How long until temp gauge climbs..
And then where does it settle?
Just trying to eliminate the obvious..
Temp gauge don't move
Cooling fan kicks in ok
possibly a faulty temperature gauge.. it is known.
at what temp does the cooling fan come on? should be just over 90 on the gauge.
at what temp does the cooling fan come on? should be just over 90 on the gauge.
on the back of the engine near the dip stick there should be the temp sensor for the gauge on the dash. pull off the single spade connector and ground it onto the engine.. look inside the car and see if the temp gauge is right over reading maximum.
this will tell you if its the sensor, or the gauge
this will tell you if its the sensor, or the gauge
From cold, you need to identify which hoses get hot.
The top hose, from the thermostat to the radiator, should stay cool, until the engine gets to normal temp, then quite quickly get hot, as the stat opens. If it gradually gets hot, the stat is leaking or stuck open, probably not the problem you have. If the end near the rad does not get hot, stat is stuck shut.
The fan could be run by a thermoswitch fitted to the rad, usually near the bottom, in which case it should only run the fan once the rad is hot. It may be switched by the temp sensor in the head, in which case it will run, even if the rad is cold, as it desperately tries to cool a hot engine.
From the cyl head, or near the stat, is the heater hose taking hot coolant to the heater. That should start to get warm, then hot, as the engine warms up. Where the hose enters the heater, the other hose, which then heads to the bottom rad hose, should get warm after the feed hose. That'll show evidence of the coolant circulating.
When the top hose gets hot, it should then gently heat the radiator, from top to bottom. Only when the rad is hot right down should the fan then run. Bottom hose will also be hot by then.
Keep all of you away from the rotating fan.
Thermostats generally fail open, rather than shut, so normal complaint is slow to warm up. But occasionally can fail shut.
Air in the system can prevent proper circulation. If I remember correctly, there is a bleed screw in the top heater hose, and another in the top of the radiator. (A long time since I was that close to a classic Panda. (Jan 2000)
Check that all the radiator gets hot. It should get hot evenly from top down. Any part not hot, or slow to heat, may indicate a blockage.
The top hose, from the thermostat to the radiator, should stay cool, until the engine gets to normal temp, then quite quickly get hot, as the stat opens. If it gradually gets hot, the stat is leaking or stuck open, probably not the problem you have. If the end near the rad does not get hot, stat is stuck shut.
The fan could be run by a thermoswitch fitted to the rad, usually near the bottom, in which case it should only run the fan once the rad is hot. It may be switched by the temp sensor in the head, in which case it will run, even if the rad is cold, as it desperately tries to cool a hot engine.
From the cyl head, or near the stat, is the heater hose taking hot coolant to the heater. That should start to get warm, then hot, as the engine warms up. Where the hose enters the heater, the other hose, which then heads to the bottom rad hose, should get warm after the feed hose. That'll show evidence of the coolant circulating.
When the top hose gets hot, it should then gently heat the radiator, from top to bottom. Only when the rad is hot right down should the fan then run. Bottom hose will also be hot by then.
Keep all of you away from the rotating fan.
Thermostats generally fail open, rather than shut, so normal complaint is slow to warm up. But occasionally can fail shut.
Air in the system can prevent proper circulation. If I remember correctly, there is a bleed screw in the top heater hose, and another in the top of the radiator. (A long time since I was that close to a classic Panda. (Jan 2000)
Check that all the radiator gets hot. It should get hot evenly from top down. Any part not hot, or slow to heat, may indicate a blockage.
All seems like that yes.now temp gauge has gone up and now stuck halfway!!
Been 3 days and gauge not gone down. I fitted new sensor yesterday and made no difference at all to the gauge
So grounding the sensor wire made the gauge climb..
But it no longer drops to 0'c /. COLD?
Sounding like Not a sensor issue
But weird that the needle doesn't drop when the voltage to it does
YeahSounding like Not a sensor issue
But weird that the needle doesn't drop when the voltage to it does
Turned it upside down as well,must be stuck
Originally.. It was reported as 'overheating'
Was this losing coolant /boiling over..?
Backed up by a normal looking Temp. Gauge Reading?
Was this losing coolant /boiling over..?
Backed up by a normal looking Temp. Gauge Reading?
Very good advice. It is ok after I have flushed and bled etc just gauge stuck now half way. Thanks for the help
Lodolo 1960
New member
Read with interest your communications. You've all helped me confirm a suspected 'sticking' Thermostat + a damaged wire from the engine sensor to the gauge on my 91-Selecta. THANKYOU.
