New Guy on the Hunt for a MK3 Panda

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New Guy on the Hunt for a MK3 Panda

DiscoSkipper99

New member
Joined
Dec 29, 2024
Messages
4
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Location
Shrewsbury
Hey all,

I'm new to the forum and have made my way here as I'm looking to get a mk3 Panda.

My 'rolling' restoration Land Rover is not very rolling at the moment so I needed a cheap to run fun little car thats not too expensive but still makes me happy - the Panda fits the bill perfectly!

I've already had a snoop around the forum and have found tonnes of really valuable information so thanks already for that - with any luck I'll be contributing to the community before long as well

James
 
Thanks for your reply - 14 year ownership means it must be doing something right so thats great to hear!

I'm not scared to get the spanners out so hopefully I'll be able to deal with most things that crop up, rot might trigger PTSD though!
 
Hi and welcome :)
fun little car thats not too expensive but still makes me happy - the Panda fits the bill perfectly!
I'd agree with that definition!
Had our 2004 Mk3 for 6 years now and it still makes me smile. Such a versatile tough fun little thing :)

As varesecrazy says, check the rear spring pans, they'll be rusty but as long as not rotten they can be easily treated.

The main body is galvanised so rust shouldn't be extensive, but also check the rear sills and engine oil sump pan, can go porous and leak oil as it rusts.

Any particular model you're looking at?
 
I hadnt seen about the sump, thats a good tip thanks!

I can't justify a 100hp or a 4x4 so any of the 'standard' models will fit the bill, I'm planning on buying on condition rather than spec in the hopes of getting a good runner - I'm not afraid of a plastic bumper either!

Only thing I'm not sure on is if I should be picky on the age, do you know if the later cars were any better put together or visa versa?

Thanks for the warm welcome!
 
There seems to be agreement the 2012+ mk4 is a bit more refined, especially the beefed up rear axle. Rear misalignment and high tyre wear seem quite common on our 169s - I had to shim the rear hubs to get the wheels tracking straight, so check for uneven tyre wear.

My preference would be for a 2010 1.2 ECO with the lower VED of later cars but the earlier non-interference Euro4 60hp engine.

From 2010 the 1.2 became Euro5 VVT 69hp, similar power curves until VVT kicks in above 4000rpm, oil and timing belt changes become a bit more critical.

I think they're all great, including the 1.1 Active. The only one I'd avoid is DuaLogic semi-auto.

The one other thing that can rust is a coolant return pipe across the front of the engine, Check it's not weeping. Not a big job but fiddly. Make sure coolant is OK.

And stick a finger in the inspection window on the top of the clutch bellhousing (engine OFF!). It'll be filthy; dry and sooty OK, wet and oily means the input shaft bearing and seal have failed. Not necessarily a deal breaker, quite common, but another fiddly repair (box off, I did ours when the clutch failed), so could be used to drive down the price😉
 
More really good things to look out for there, I'll have a nice detailed list to work through when I'm viewing

I'm going to look more closely at the early 1.2's now too, its so handy to steal everyones experience in these situations! It's good to hear that you cant find yourself buying a horror show if you get the wrong year or spec though - now all I have to do is find the perfect one :unsure:
 
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