Technical Lower wishbone

[Kmc33]

Hi could anyone please tell me the bolt size that secures the wishbone. The one im talking about is the hidden one that fits through the top rubber of the wishbone. It has the 18mm size nut on it. Ive replaced the wishbones about a year ago but they seem to be loose again as the clunking has started again. Im going to replace the bolt and locking nut this time. Thanks

 

[jrkitching]

Shop4parts sell genuine ones for not much money.

 

[John202020]

I'm going to say the bolts are the least likely to be the issue.
Can you give us more details, year, what's been replaced etc.
Drop links can fail within a year( as I found out ) if not correctly fitted, my fault.

 

[Kmc33]

I'm going to say the bolts are the least likely to be the issue.
Can you give us more details, year, what's been replaced etc.
Drop links can fail within a year( as I found out ) if not correctly fitted, my fault.

Its not my car, it's stepdaughters. Says its clunking so asked her to take it to a garage and they just said anti roll bar link and lower front suspension arm left and right. I am yet to inspect it but the wishbones are only 18 months on with a liw mileage and a black box fitted. Driven carefullyin other words.

 

[jrkitching]

I'd say there's a high chance it'll be the droplinks, but also check the rubber bushes on the anti roll bar.

 

[Kmc33]

I'd say there's a high chance it'll be the droplinks, but also check the rubber bushes on the anti roll bar.

I am hoping so as doing the hidden nut on the wishbone is a nightmare.

 

[John202020]

I'd say there's a high chance it'll be the droplinks, but also check the rubber bushes on the anti roll bar.

Was my first thought

 

[Danoid]

When you changed the wishbones, did you preload the suspension before tightening bolts?

 

[vexorg]

They are torqued up pretty tight, no way they should come loose.
I'd only use genuine bolts, high torque, critical part, stupid to use anything else.

 

[Kmc33]

When you changed the wishbones, did you preload the suspension before tightening bolts?

I don't think so. Im pretty sure the axle stands wouldn't have been under the suspension at the time due to getting at the bolts etc. Can be sure. If I re-do them I will now. Thank you

 

[Danoid]

I don't think so. Im pretty sure the axle stands wouldn't have been under the suspension at the time due to getting at the bolts etc. Can be sure. If I re-do them I will now. Thank you

An it could be possible that the wishbone bushes are already bad and you need to replace already

What I done was measured the distance from center wheel bore to top of wheel arch when it was on the ground, then when I replaced I jacked up until I got that distance then tightened up.

You can see this person doing it just after 9mins 30

 

[Kmc33]

An it could be possible that the wishbone bushes are already bad and you need to replace already

What I done was measured the distance from center wheel bore to top of wheel arch when it was on the ground, then when I replaced I jacked up until I got that distance then tightened up.

You can see this person doing it just after 9mins 30

Ill have a look on Thursday and see for myself what needs doing. Im hoping it is the vertical rods that need replacing.

 

[Danoid]

It’s a shame it’s a right pig to get to

 

[Kmc33]

It’s a shame it’s a right pig to get to

Yes. Before I check to actually see what the problem is what is the best way to check for the clonking. Wheels on/off. Car on axle stands or on ground etc etc. Thanks

 

[jrkitching]

what is the best way to check for the clonking

The best way to check the droplinks is to unload the anti roll bar. That way, there won't be any tension or compression in the droplink, which could otherwise mask any free movement. You can't do this if the wheel is hanging free, and you can't do this with the weight of the car on its wheels, either.

To do this, jack up the front of the car on the appropriate side, then place a second jack under the strut, and gently raise the strut until there is no tension in the droplink. At this point, any play should be obvious.

It's also the easiest way to fit new droplinks since the holes and the droplinks will line up perfectly at this point.

New droplinks come with new nuts; the easiest way to get the old ones off is to slice through them with a thin metal cutting disc in a grinder.

If all else fails and you can't find the source of the clunking, take the car to an MOT test station. MOT testers spend all day looking for worn suspension, and are very good at finding it!