Tuning Ignition Issue

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Tuning Ignition Issue

Joined
Feb 23, 2025
Messages
4
Points
2
Location
Exeter
Hi all.

I have an issue with starting my 500L. The dry coil is brand new, I have re-wired front to back to coil and the wire from coil to distributer. Changed the condenser and fitted a ballast (to save burning out coil).
I last had the engine running 2 weeks ago for 15 mins the it just died leaving me with this issue. Could it be the electronic ignitions there is no spark at the plugs (there's voltage at the coil )
 
Model
500L
Year
1970
Mileage
700

Attachments

  • 085214C3-C9A0-4D0B-A520-555672FFCB98.mov
    10.5 MB
  • CE861CA7-611D-4BF6-AFE3-7FE860262869.mov
    59.8 MB
Hi all.

I have an issue with starting my 500L. The dry coil is brand new, I have re-wired front to back to coil and the wire from coil to distributer. Changed the condenser and fitted a ballast (to save burning out coil).
I last had the engine running 2 weeks ago for 15 mins the it just died leaving me with this issue. Could it be the electronic ignitions there is no spark at the plugs (there's voltage at the coil )
View attachment 461782
In your first video it looks like you have contact points and you mention a condensor, I can't see the points opening and closing are they correctly gapped.
You also mention electronic ignition?
If you have normal points and condensor set up I would check the points are not burnt as as if ignition left on without engine running it damages the condensor and sometimes the coil too.
If points are good I would correctly gap them and personally I always put a little high melting point grease on the heel where it touches the cam in distributor.
 
In your first video it looks like you have contact points and you mention a condensor, I can't see the points opening and closing are they correctly gapped.
You also mention electronic ignition?
If you have normal points and condensor set up I would check the points are not burnt as as if ignition left on without engine running it damages the condensor and sometimes the coil too.
If points are good I would correctly gap them and personally I always put a little high melting point grease on the heel where it touches the cam in distributor.
Hi. Thank you for your advice. It was the points which were closed due to wear on the point where the cam opens the switch/point.
I used the old ignition from the previous engine to work out what was going on. Attached is a picture and video I had sent to Totó from Ricambi who was
IMG_2375.jpeg
on WheelerDealers.
 
Hi. Thank you for your advice. It was the points which were closed due to wear on the point where the cam opens the switch/point.
I used the old ignition from the previous engine to work out what was going on. Attached is a picture and video I had sent to Totó from Ricambi who was View attachment 461922on WheelerDealers.
Glad it helped, since as an apprentice back in 1969 I must have fitted thousands of sets of points and once gapped and greased as I mentioned they were totally reliable between 6000 k services.
Since electronic ignition came along most people have to read up about it to understand the operation.
For older vehicles I much prefer them as far easier to repair at the side of the road and no need for a tow truck unlike ECU controlled modern cars.:)
 
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