General Fiamm Twin Horns

[thornebt]

I've been trying to wire up my new Fiamm Twin Horns on my 100HP Panda without success. I am not very good at electrical stuff! The spade terminals on the horns are not marked positive or minus. The Fiamm wiring diagram seems to have two wiring diagrams for the same setup - whether it is 'grounded horn button' or 'horn button connected to positive'. In one there is a jumper wire between the two horn terminals closest to each other and the other has one wire switched to the other terminal.

I have checked the horns direct from the battery and they both work.

I think the starting point is to determine whether the horn button is 'grounded' or 'positive'. I can't work this out from the Haynes wiring diagram! Does anyone know please?

Cheers. Bruce.

 

[koalar]

I take the original horn works fine and you are disconnecting it and adding the aftermarket in its place

am I correct ?

 

[koalar]

steering wheel horn switch grounds a pin on the body computer which activates relay 3


allowing 12v from f10 to flow through the relay to the horn and onto chassis earth

you fuses and relays may be labelled differently as Fiat often change them around. List in the owners booklet will be correct

 

[thornebt]

steering wheel horn switch grounds a pin on the body computer which activates relay 3


allowing 12v from f10 to flow through the relay to the horn and onto chassis earth

you fuses and relays may be labelled differently as Fiat often change them around. List in the owners booklet will be correct

Thanks Koalar. The original horn was working fine - just a bit too feeble! The wiring is simpler now as I understand that the horns are not polarity sensitive - hence no + or - markings on the terminals. I am sure I have traced the fault to the power supply wire. When I checked it earlier I was not getting 12V when pushing the horn button. For the connections I used some of those plastic blocks that you put the cables in then crimp the metal plate that pierces the wire and a plastic flap clips over the top. It was getting dark so I need to sort it out tomorrow. Cheers. Bruce.

 

[jimboy]

Thanks Koalar. The original horn was working fine - just a bit too feeble! The wiring is simpler now as I understand that the horns are not polarity sensitive - hence no + or - markings on the terminals. I am sure I have traced the fault to the power supply wire. When I checked it earlier I was not getting 12V when pushing the horn button. For the connections I used some of those plastic blocks that you put the cables in then crimp the metal plate that pierces the wire and a plastic flap clips over the top. It was getting dark so I need to sort it out tomorrow. Cheers. Bruce.

You want to get rid of those blue connectors. Use bullet ones and heat shrink tubing. Ideally solder is the way to go, but the bullet will be fine and a lot easier and better than those blue jobbies.

 

[Jockcl500]

You want to get rid of those blue connectors. Use bullet ones and heat shrink tubing. Ideally solder is the way to go, but the bullet will be fine and a lot easier and better than those blue jobbies.

I agree, anything is better than those speed clips, very unreliable, you never know if they have a good connection or not, I used them in the 90s and never again, they don't save you time when they need doing again.

 

[daiblack]

When I fitted the Stebel Nautilus horn on mine I used a 2 pin superseal connector to plug into the O.E connector to switch the relay.

 

[DaveMcT]

A powerful horn will quickly expose the feeble wires/connectors that had caused the old horn to be so - erm - feeble.