Hi. I have a Fiat Doblo 263 (2012). My problem is that it is difficult to close with the remote control. The remote control is not the problem, because I replaced the microswitch and I have a spare remote control. Both behave the same problem. Opening always takes one button press. Closing is random, between one and 30 button presses. In that case, the turn signal does not flash either. What should I check? Any tips on what could be the problem?
Technical Doblo 263 remote
- Thread starter walaki79
- Start date
- Replies 10
- Views 781
Currently reading:
Technical
Doblo 263 remote
I have a Doblo 263 2014.
So it makes the clunking noise each time you lock it, but doesn't actually lock?
Just one door (presumably driver's side)?
If so I suspect you need to take the driver's side door card off and lubricate or fix the latch or cable.
I have the same problem on my driver's side sliding door but that's because I have retrofitted a handle and cable which isn't quite right.
My driver's door worked fine from the remote, but a plastic bracket had broken off the door card holding the cable (previous owner used force) and the internal latch lever felt loose. Once I glued it back together it was much better.
BTW rather than using glue I would recommend hot air plastic welding, but is a bit specialist. I have recently tried this and would not go back to glue.
So it makes the clunking noise each time you lock it, but doesn't actually lock?
Just one door (presumably driver's side)?
If so I suspect you need to take the driver's side door card off and lubricate or fix the latch or cable.
I have the same problem on my driver's side sliding door but that's because I have retrofitted a handle and cable which isn't quite right.
My driver's door worked fine from the remote, but a plastic bracket had broken off the door card holding the cable (previous owner used force) and the internal latch lever felt loose. Once I glued it back together it was much better.
BTW rather than using glue I would recommend hot air plastic welding, but is a bit specialist. I have recently tried this and would not go back to glue.
Certainly worth checking and oil the door lock.
Re the plastic welding I agree it can be much stronger, assuming you have the correct plastic filler rods.
I bought a "Leister" 110volt one at a commercial garage auction years ago as they used them with a roller to repair curtain side lorry sheeting, it came with a load of rolls of the plastic canvas material and I used it to make a cover for my boat, not pretty , but it lasted.
However I also used the same tool to weld a broken mirror back on an old Fiat Doblo I had, again not pretty, but strong.
I am sure with a bit or practice a tidy job could be done, it goes up to 600 Degrees Centigrade, so you have to set it to the correct temp depending on the plastic and the filler rod.
Yes definitely need the correct plastic welding rods, but that's normally quite easy because legislation means they have to mark plastic in the moulding. Look for abbreviations like PP, ABS, PA+GF15 etc, put the code in Google and it will tell you the type.Certainly worth checking and oil the door lock.
Re the plastic welding I agree it can be much stronger, assuming you have the correct plastic filler rods.
I bought a "Leister" 110volt one at a commercial garage auction years ago as they used them with a roller to repair curtain side lorry sheeting, it came with a load of rolls of the plastic canvas material and I used it to make a cover for my boat, not pretty , but it lasted.
However I also used the same tool to weld a broken mirror back on an old Fiat Doblo I had, again not pretty, but strong.
I am sure with a bit or practice a tidy job could be done, it goes up to 600 Degrees Centigrade, so you have to set it to the correct temp depending on the plastic and the filler rod.
I used a combination of a hot air rework tool used for surface mount electronics, and a soldering iron with some brass screw in tips meant for the job, I already had the main tools and both have a digital temperature control.
Hot air tends to penetrate deeper into the surrounding plastic making the bond better. The soldering iron is better at smoothing it out. I found using both at once was quite useful.
Have done the bumper and both headlights (including the polycarbonate lens), like you say not particularly pretty unless you want to shape it with a file and sandpaper, but stronger than glue.
No it doesnt make the noise, it just doesnt lock - its not a one door problem, the car either locks all doors or none at all. The lights dont flash either while pushing the button as they do when the doors actually lock.
Ah okay, in that case it sounds like an immobiliser/ remote problem. As far as I'm aware the remote rotates it's code. If that gets out of sync the body control module will take a few attempts to sync back up.
This is what happens when you program a new key.
You say you have a spare remote, is that a clone of the existing one?
If so, I suspect you are interchanging the remotes, so the BCM thinks there is only one remote and so when it gets an out of sync code it ignores the code it receives. It expects the codes to be in sequence.
Does that sound plausible?
You really need to program all your remotes as separate unique keys in the BCM.
I may be wrong, but suspect drivers door lock as disregarding the remote opening or closing of the vehicle engine still starts and if key fob has been working in the past then it should continue as long as good battery in fob, especially as spare key as mentioned at #1 does the same.
There is only one antenna for the remote central locking, and the immobiliser transponder code for the ignition loop is different from the rotating remote codes sent, but they are cryptographically linked afaik.
I have reprogrammed Fiat Scudo remote fobs with no issue, just by following a sequence with key in ignition and pressing the fob buttons, but I think the Doblos may be different.
The Scudo is a Peugeot/Citroen system so is different to a Doblo but essentially operates the same way.
The only way that would have worked is if the key had already been programmed to the vehicle by a dealer or a key tool. You're just syncing the rotating code.
Also my resync idea is only vaguely valid, because the BCM has a remote code window that it will accept, to cater for button presses out of range (in your pocket). If the rotating code falls outside the window it will be ignored until it can resync. So this might happen if you change the cloned keys infrequently enough that when bringing the 'old' key back, the code transmitted falls outside its expected window.
Apparently also the immobiliser and remote codes are independent, they're just programmed to the key at the same time.
Yes I know the Scudo are more Peugeot Citroen family though not 100% as I bought a license for my diagnostic tool for Fiat Scudo and then had to buy another for a Citroen Dispatch although using the same running gear because the ECU identifies as Citroen.
Looking in my trade Technical Data manual I see it is as you describe for the Fiat Doblo, but the Peugeot Partner (clone) of the same age and running gear etc. gives a method of remote syncronisation similar to that I described earlier. So it does sound like Fiat ECU is more geared for dealer intervention or specialist auto locksmith than the Peugeot Citroen range even to replace remotes or even if someone presses the remote several times out of range with the vehicle, it will stop it working.
