Sorry this may not have a load of pictures but it should help.
I just did one of these today so while its fresh in my mind here is the what I did.
The B&M module does sit inside, to the front, of the the near side (left on UK cars) rear wheel arch, behind the panel which in this 3 dorr is in lieu of door card. Its well tucked away and held in a frame that is riveted to the body structure. There is one single wireing plug attached which is locked in place with a locking clip.
In this case the car was suffering from a flat battery and flashing mileometer.
Before starting I did check the battery and it was sitting at 13.9 volts with the engine running and some lights on, so it appeared to be charging OK.
Access to the B&M required removal of the inner trim with moulded arm rest. Its basically clipped in, but has front and rear seatbelts bolted through so requires the bottom bolts removing from these. A normal socket and ratchet removed the front top mount. The top bolt, front bolt has a cover over it. This needs to be lifted skywards and it will them lift off. Its retained however by a nylon thread so dont just pull it right out of the car. Once the cover is off the top bolt releases as expected and can be laid aside. Dont mess with the lower mounting its linked to teh pretensioners and would need extra precautions and care.
The rear belt lower mount is hidden behind the back seat cushion AND seat back. The seat cushion is held in by two bolts under its front edge. Remove these anad lift the base out of the car. In the cabrio you need the seat folded down (especially as the boot would not open) To get the seatbelt mount out I had to loose the seat back as well, so 4 big bolts two each side out first from the seat hinge. and one big bolt in the centre pivot bracket. Additionally there is an allen bolt to be removed this allows the pivot lock tab to be slid out of the way. withy the seat moved a little out of the way the lower seatbelt bolt was easily accessed.
There are now three trim pieces to remove.
B pillar trim.
This is now free to move without the seatbelt top mount, and it is held by two push fit studs at its bottom end. You need to ease the door rubber seal away from teh pillar from bottom to top. STarting in the middle use your trim tool or a strong ruler to lver it into the doo opening . Once you have a little free from the body seam its clipped to pull the remainder away. Dont take off more than is needed. Just the side, not the top or bottom. Use a suitable trim tool inserted upwards from the bottom to lever the pillar trim away from the body. Take care to insert the toll behind the trim clip or you risk breaking the trim! Look up and lever the trim AND the clip away together. The trim should them release downwards towards the floor the top being a push in fitting. Be firm but not rough.
C pillar trim
You need to remove a trim clip and 1 screw which holds the main side trim and C pillar trim to the side of the car. This is located beneath the back C pillar trim around the top of the seatback. The trim clip hold the bottom edge of the pillar trim to the back scuttle and can easily be seen. Its a pull out / push back black botton fixing.
Then working from the bottom of the pillar trim. Pull the base of the trim away from the sideof the car and slightly up. The First one or two Clips should come out and you can then see the remainder with a torch and maybe a mirror to locate and remove the rest.
Main rear side trim.
One screw needs to be removed from the base just inside the door opening and the trim will pull out into the car. Again frim but not rough or violent and use a pry tool if possible. ABout 6 clipes hold this panel.
B&M disconnection
The photo shows the B&M from above secured into the car. You can just see the blue wiring plug and over the top a black C shaped part, which is the plugs locking lever.
The wiring plug comes out very easily once the retaining lock lever is unlocked. The lock lever is a straight lever, hinged at the top as you look at it. It is hinged at the top, so basically you need to feel down the side and locate the bottom of the lock lever. A very small flat balde screw driver needs to be used as a pry bar. Insert the downwards, and upside down so the handle is towards the floor and blade up. If you touch the B&M with the blade and move upwards you should catch the lock bar with the blade. At this point press it into the B&M unit and it should catch the lockbar as you bring the screw driver blade up, and lift the lock handle as it comes up. As soon as this is lifted the connector will come off and the B&M is disconnected. I shall draw the mech as I have no photo.
B&M in this case was not required so the wiring loom was loose-wrapped in Duct Tape and taped to the bodywork tp prevent rattles, and the car reassembled in reverse order.
I cleaned the seat hinge bolts with a wire brush as they clearly stick into the wheel arch. Each was coated on copper grease to resist corrosion. Seat belt bolts were cleaned with a wire brush, a small amount of thread locker added to the threads before replacement. These need to be tight but not overdone or the bodywork will distort.
Having replaced the trims, the door seal and the seat base and back the phsical part was done.
Proxi alignment using MES (10 mins)
When a computer module fails it basically breaks the cars CAN network. The first and main symptom visible to the owner is flashing mileometer. In the event a module such as B&M is removed or replaced you must effectively switch the network off and on again. Its slightly more complex than this but It just involves performing a proxi alignment, much as a lap top reads what attched to its USB nodes. MES is connected to the cars OBD port which sits behind a cover by the drivers right knee. Using the yellow adapter you can do this by selection from the MES menu. It takes 15 seconds and then you turn the car off for 5 seconds before it is ready to go. This went easily and no issues were expereinced therefter. Flashing milage was no longer happening.
At the time of writing Im waiting with fingers crossed to hear the battery discharging issue is also gone. Hopefully a few more pictures to add. Anyone worried about this job should not do so reming the wires is hard the rest is really pretty simple.
Note the B&M is bolted into the car and can be removed by undoing the little 8mm bolts that hold it to the frame. You can drill the rivets out but its not essential,.
I just did one of these today so while its fresh in my mind here is the what I did.
The B&M module does sit inside, to the front, of the the near side (left on UK cars) rear wheel arch, behind the panel which in this 3 dorr is in lieu of door card. Its well tucked away and held in a frame that is riveted to the body structure. There is one single wireing plug attached which is locked in place with a locking clip.
In this case the car was suffering from a flat battery and flashing mileometer.
Before starting I did check the battery and it was sitting at 13.9 volts with the engine running and some lights on, so it appeared to be charging OK.
Access to the B&M required removal of the inner trim with moulded arm rest. Its basically clipped in, but has front and rear seatbelts bolted through so requires the bottom bolts removing from these. A normal socket and ratchet removed the front top mount. The top bolt, front bolt has a cover over it. This needs to be lifted skywards and it will them lift off. Its retained however by a nylon thread so dont just pull it right out of the car. Once the cover is off the top bolt releases as expected and can be laid aside. Dont mess with the lower mounting its linked to teh pretensioners and would need extra precautions and care.
The rear belt lower mount is hidden behind the back seat cushion AND seat back. The seat cushion is held in by two bolts under its front edge. Remove these anad lift the base out of the car. In the cabrio you need the seat folded down (especially as the boot would not open) To get the seatbelt mount out I had to loose the seat back as well, so 4 big bolts two each side out first from the seat hinge. and one big bolt in the centre pivot bracket. Additionally there is an allen bolt to be removed this allows the pivot lock tab to be slid out of the way. withy the seat moved a little out of the way the lower seatbelt bolt was easily accessed.
There are now three trim pieces to remove.
B pillar trim.
This is now free to move without the seatbelt top mount, and it is held by two push fit studs at its bottom end. You need to ease the door rubber seal away from teh pillar from bottom to top. STarting in the middle use your trim tool or a strong ruler to lver it into the doo opening . Once you have a little free from the body seam its clipped to pull the remainder away. Dont take off more than is needed. Just the side, not the top or bottom. Use a suitable trim tool inserted upwards from the bottom to lever the pillar trim away from the body. Take care to insert the toll behind the trim clip or you risk breaking the trim! Look up and lever the trim AND the clip away together. The trim should them release downwards towards the floor the top being a push in fitting. Be firm but not rough.
C pillar trim
You need to remove a trim clip and 1 screw which holds the main side trim and C pillar trim to the side of the car. This is located beneath the back C pillar trim around the top of the seatback. The trim clip hold the bottom edge of the pillar trim to the back scuttle and can easily be seen. Its a pull out / push back black botton fixing.
Then working from the bottom of the pillar trim. Pull the base of the trim away from the sideof the car and slightly up. The First one or two Clips should come out and you can then see the remainder with a torch and maybe a mirror to locate and remove the rest.
Main rear side trim.
One screw needs to be removed from the base just inside the door opening and the trim will pull out into the car. Again frim but not rough or violent and use a pry tool if possible. ABout 6 clipes hold this panel.
B&M disconnection
The photo shows the B&M from above secured into the car. You can just see the blue wiring plug and over the top a black C shaped part, which is the plugs locking lever.
The wiring plug comes out very easily once the retaining lock lever is unlocked. The lock lever is a straight lever, hinged at the top as you look at it. It is hinged at the top, so basically you need to feel down the side and locate the bottom of the lock lever. A very small flat balde screw driver needs to be used as a pry bar. Insert the downwards, and upside down so the handle is towards the floor and blade up. If you touch the B&M with the blade and move upwards you should catch the lock bar with the blade. At this point press it into the B&M unit and it should catch the lockbar as you bring the screw driver blade up, and lift the lock handle as it comes up. As soon as this is lifted the connector will come off and the B&M is disconnected. I shall draw the mech as I have no photo.
B&M in this case was not required so the wiring loom was loose-wrapped in Duct Tape and taped to the bodywork tp prevent rattles, and the car reassembled in reverse order.
I cleaned the seat hinge bolts with a wire brush as they clearly stick into the wheel arch. Each was coated on copper grease to resist corrosion. Seat belt bolts were cleaned with a wire brush, a small amount of thread locker added to the threads before replacement. These need to be tight but not overdone or the bodywork will distort.
Having replaced the trims, the door seal and the seat base and back the phsical part was done.
Proxi alignment using MES (10 mins)
When a computer module fails it basically breaks the cars CAN network. The first and main symptom visible to the owner is flashing mileometer. In the event a module such as B&M is removed or replaced you must effectively switch the network off and on again. Its slightly more complex than this but It just involves performing a proxi alignment, much as a lap top reads what attched to its USB nodes. MES is connected to the cars OBD port which sits behind a cover by the drivers right knee. Using the yellow adapter you can do this by selection from the MES menu. It takes 15 seconds and then you turn the car off for 5 seconds before it is ready to go. This went easily and no issues were expereinced therefter. Flashing milage was no longer happening.
At the time of writing Im waiting with fingers crossed to hear the battery discharging issue is also gone. Hopefully a few more pictures to add. Anyone worried about this job should not do so reming the wires is hard the rest is really pretty simple.
Note the B&M is bolted into the car and can be removed by undoing the little 8mm bolts that hold it to the frame. You can drill the rivets out but its not essential,.
