Technical Coolant change

Currently reading:
Technical Coolant change

Joined
Dec 5, 2005
Messages
2,849
Points
535
Location
Sleepy Suffolk
Hi guys

Anyone on who can help me with a coolant change on a late Panda M Reg?

Haynes manual says it will take 8 pints but we can only get about 6 pints in.

The heater is also not working and we cannot get a bleed at the heater which now does not seem to work. CAN ANYONE HELP PLEASE!!!

Cheers

MARTIN
 
not all pandas had the bleed point near the heater best way if you have draind all the coolent out is to start the engine, put the heater on the hottest setting (to open the valve) and get it blowwing onto the screen then fill the radiator 9 times out of ten this will stop you getting an air lock (heater cold) if it is cold hold on a few rev's for a few mins with the rad cap off this should force the air out.
 
not all pandas had the bleed point near the heater best way if you have draind all the coolent out is to start the engine, put the heater on the hottest setting (to open the valve) and get it blowwing onto the screen then fill the radiator 9 times out of ten this will stop you getting an air lock (heater cold) if it is cold hold on a few rev's for a few mins with the rad cap off this should force the air out.

This worked for me.

My CLX has the bleed point near the matrix but it is tucked away so you have to have a hunt for it! My old 750 did not have this.

I was really relieved I got it all working again as I was convinced something was wrong with my heater and was worried that I would have to face the winter with a cold car. Have to say the heater in my CLX is normally not too bad at all.
 
Last edited:
Your CLX craig should have the plastic screw.....I think???...as urchin says, if not, do the heater thing..(y)..to be honest i do that as well as the plastic screw.

looked yesterday and couldnt find one. remember i have one of the "inbetweener" ones thats mix and match new and old.

Did the heater thing when changing the coolant few weeks back and i get hot air out so i think all is :cool:
 
There is a plastic screw in the hose that enters/exits the matrix...usually just as it disappers behind the sound proof stuff..


:yeahthat:

Interesting about them not all having the bleed nipple in pipe. I thought it was only the 4x4's that didn't as they had self bleeding systems, as all 9 (or is it 10 :rolleyes: :confused: :eek:) of the Panda's that we've had, except the 2 4x4's, had these in place, and they range from 1989 2wd's to 1993 2wd's.
 
I just changed my coolant too. Now I'm having problem's getting rid of an air lock. It's on a 4x4 by the way so no bleed screw's in any hose's. I have poured the coolant in very slowly until it flows from the small hose between radiator and header tank. So I would say that is bled. But now the car runs between 5 and 10 degrees hotter than normal. I can also hear the air in the system as a sort of rushing/hissing noise from within the radiator. I have even done a block test for combustion gases in the coolant because I was paranoid about my cylinder head gasket. So has anybody got any ideas as to how to get the air out of the system?
 
I just changed my coolant too. Now I'm having problem's getting rid of an air lock. It's on a 4x4 by the way so no bleed screw's in any hose's. I have poured the coolant in very slowly until it flows from the small hose between radiator and header tank. So I would say that is bled. But now the car runs between 5 and 10 degrees hotter than normal. I can also hear the air in the system as a sort of rushing/hissing noise from within the radiator. I have even done a block test for combustion gases in the coolant because I was paranoid about my cylinder head gasket. So has anybody got any ideas as to how to get the air out of the system?

Would high revs help? As mentioned above, this worked for me.
 
Back
Top