Technical Changing battery
- Thread starter sandancer
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Technical Changing battery
If you are worried about loosing codes etc. You can purchase a code saver they usually have a PP9 battery in them that plugs into a cigar lighter or some go in the EOBD port, though if battery fails completely you will have lost it anyway. Cars with Stop/Start need to follow instructions as per handbook etc. also a suitable battery required.
If very careful with a set of jump leads on the battery clamps to a spare battery you can do it that way, but at your own risk.
Update to battery change
I got my guy who does my MOT to fit new battery,he just disconnected old battery and fitted new bosch battery straight away,all I seemed to lose was a few miles from the distance travelled,runs like a sewing machine
I got my guy who does my MOT to fit new battery,he just disconnected old battery and fitted new bosch battery straight away,all I seemed to lose was a few miles from the distance travelled,runs like a sewing machine
My battery died overnight on my 2016 Doblo 1.3 multijet. Charged it up (on the chargers recovery mode) for a whole day. 13.6 v shown, so turned the motor over. Just a click and battery down to 8.2v immediately.
Bought a new battery the next day, fitted it, started fine. But speedo flashing, no radio, no aircon, and running a bit lumpy. The general concensus was that it needed to go on Fiat's diagnosis machine for a "proxi alignment". Rang Fiat independent who said he could look at it in two weeks.
Spoke to my neighbour about this, and he had an Autel code reader. Plugged it in, and found ODB port dead. Checked fuses and found F35 fuse blown. Replaced and all back working fine, car running perfectly.
So why the blown fuse just changing the battery? I'm extremely careful when attaching chargers to the right posts (ever since an RAC patrol man jump started my VW T5 with the leads the wrong way round and blew a £1100 ECU).
Bought a new battery the next day, fitted it, started fine. But speedo flashing, no radio, no aircon, and running a bit lumpy. The general concensus was that it needed to go on Fiat's diagnosis machine for a "proxi alignment". Rang Fiat independent who said he could look at it in two weeks.
Spoke to my neighbour about this, and he had an Autel code reader. Plugged it in, and found ODB port dead. Checked fuses and found F35 fuse blown. Replaced and all back working fine, car running perfectly.
So why the blown fuse just changing the battery? I'm extremely careful when attaching chargers to the right posts (ever since an RAC patrol man jump started my VW T5 with the leads the wrong way round and blew a £1100 ECU).
My thoughts are , unless a wire got touched /shorted when changing battery, most likely when voltage dropped to 8v the strain from the started overloaded another circuit trying to pull current. I assume all earthing leads in good order.
Thanks. Thinking about it the aircon, heater fan and radio would have been on when I tried to start it. So an overload of those circuits is the probable cause of the issues.
It might just be psychological, but it feels like it is running so much better now.
The ECU maybe "re learning" all it's settings and settling down again.
You are probably correct
A battery no. Longer just provides sparks, all of the sensors need a stable supply to keep things operating properly, this was probably not achieved as the battery was failing.
A common sight is the Electric Power Steering giving problems..
(I believe yours is Hydraulic.. From a pump)
Yes, it’s straightforward to fit a new battery. To avoid losing memory in your car’s computer and settings, use a memory saver device plugged into the OBD-II port or 12V outlet before disconnecting the old battery. If you don’t have one, you may lose things like radio presets or clock settings, but the car will still run fine and most systems relearn after driving. Disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive. When installing the new battery, connect the positive terminal first, then the negative.
