Technical Blue and Me Woes: Panda MultiECUScan- worth buying?

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Technical Blue and Me Woes: Panda MultiECUScan- worth buying?

Joined
Nov 16, 2024
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Less than a week into our Panda 4x4 ownership of our 62 plate Panda 4x4 and I’m getting a better understanding of the car and what needs sorting.

Flashing odometer, no Bluetooth and USB not working, as well as a history of flat battery. I’m guessing the Blue and Me unit is a likely cause. I understand removing the unit would stop the battery drain but not stop the odometer flashing. I know there are reconditioning services available on eBay that will repair the unit for £50. I’ve also realised that there is a chance a Proxy Alignment would be needed.

As the car has no real history and I intend to do as much work as possible myself, I thought it may be worth getting the MultiECUScan software for my laptop to help diagnose and if needed cancel faults.

I’ve read a fair few posts about this process for other Fiat models. I thought it best to check before investing. Is the MultiECUScan software straightforward to use (or are there instructions/tutorials available?). How can I find out which specific plug adapter I need for my 2013 Panda 4x4? Does the free version of the software just show error codes (which would be useful anyway) or can a cancel them/perform a Proxy Alignment?

I know my way around a computer and usually can work through most things (with instructions) so I’m thinking in the longer term it may be useful to have and cheaper that paying each time I need any diagnostics, but I have never done onything like this before. If I’m opening a can or worms please let me know!
 
Of all the tools you might buy, this would be the most useful. I would highly recommend you visit the Gendan website and consider purchasing either the USB package or the Bluetooth package. Both these come with all the cables you require for any Fiat/Alfa/Lancia car. MES has a demo page for every function so you can see how it works before using it in anger.

It has been a such a timesaver for me, especially when needing to log various sensors while tracking down faults. And of course, you can do proxi alignment when needed.

The free version will let you read codes but you cannot delete them. Some modules cannot be accessed either and proxi alignment is not available.

The software doesn't take that much getting used to and there are plenty on here who can help if you get stuck.
 
Of all the tools you might buy, this would be the most useful. I would highly recommend you visit the Gendan website and consider purchasing either the USB package or the Bluetooth package. Both these come with all the cables you require for any Fiat/Alfa/Lancia car. MES has a demo page for every function so you can see how it works before using it in anger.

It has been a such a timesaver for me, especially when needing to log various sensors while tracking down faults. And of course, you can do proxi alignment when needed.

The free version will let you read codes but you cannot delete them. Some modules cannot be accessed either and proxi alignment is not available.

The software doesn't take that much getting used to and there are plenty on here who can help if you get stuck.
Thanks for the reply. I’d had a look at the Gendan website. I was just wondering what the minimal spend I could get away with was, as I’m determined not to get carried away with cost. Although I know Gendan is the official site and am aware of the risks of ‘buy cheap buy twice’.

I had seen this on eBay;

Diagnostic USB Cable ELM 327 Modified & Suitable For MultiEcuScan

I wondered if this would work with MES, and may work out cheaper even if I have to pay for a subscription.

Battery is dead after 3 days. I’m guessing that’s why the car was cheap! I’m hoping that it’s just the Blue and Me and I’ve managed to get a bargain not a white elephant…🤞
 
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Sounds like it may work and would be a cheap alternative. The main problem with ebay units are trouble with drivers and dodgy cables but could be worth a punt if you are looking to keep costs down. A faulty Blue & Me module will usually draw current all the time so a flat battery is inevitable at some point.
 
Im agree with Eltezz. MES is a very useful thing. Allows mchecking of the cars ECU controlled functions, live graphing of sensor readings etc, reading and clearing fault codes, resetting service intervals and quite a few other things. I paid £125 for the full kit and software on a stick, a set of leads and instructions all on a case but this was a few years back.
 
First thing disconnect the blue and me unit. Been a journey with this problem. Blue and me repaired by Revtronic Bradford, excellent service , worked for 6 months but went down again a couple weeks ago. Revtronic bench tested it and its fine. Refitted, no joy. Fuse is ok, power to 16th pin in plug but no power to no 1 pin. Been suggested that box itself needs changed
Have ran my Panda Cross 2015 every day since this blue and me problem , just have to put up with flashing odometer
 
Less than a week into our Panda 4x4 ownership of our 62 plate Panda 4x4 and I’m getting a better understanding of the car and what needs sorting.

Flashing odometer, no Bluetooth and USB not working, as well as a history of flat battery. I’m guessing the Blue and Me unit is a likely cause. I understand removing the unit would stop the battery drain but not stop the odometer flashing. I know there are reconditioning services available on eBay that will repair the unit for £50. I’ve also realised that there is a chance a Proxy Alignment would be needed.

As the car has no real history and I intend to do as much work as possible myself, I thought it may be worth getting the MultiECUScan software for my laptop to help diagnose and if needed cancel faults.

I’ve read a fair few posts about this process for other Fiat models. I thought it best to check before investing. Is the MultiECUScan software straightforward to use (or are there instructions/tutorials available?). How can I find out which specific plug adapter I need for my 2013 Panda 4x4? Does the free version of the software just show error codes (which would be useful anyway) or can a cancel them/perform a Proxy Alignment?

I know my way around a computer and usually can work through most things (with instructions) so I’m thinking in the longer term it may be useful to have and cheaper that paying each time I need any diagnostics, but I have never done onything like this before. If I’m opening a can or worms please let me know!
So, at risk of repeating other threads on here and indeed myself; the B&M unit is under the driver's seat in the RHD version - it needs to be unplugged here (not on the radio/head unit) to eliminate the battery drain. I replaced mine with a second-hand B&M from an Alfa (same part number but different fitting since on the Alfa it resides behind the dash. It was plug and play (no reset required - the odometer stopped flashing). You can get a unit repaired as folk have suggested in this case it seems to vary as to whether the BCM needs to programmed to accept the new unit (proxy alignment) which I think probably relates to whether the module's software address has been reset (terminology maybe incorrect). Here software is required of which I have no experience.
 
So, at risk of repeating other threads on here and indeed myself; the B&M unit is under the driver's seat in the RHD version - it needs to be unplugged here (not on the radio/head unit) to eliminate the battery drain. I replaced mine with a second-hand B&M from an Alfa (same part number but different fitting since on the Alfa it resides behind the dash. It was plug and play (no reset required - the odometer stopped flashing). You can get a unit repaired as folk have suggested in this case it seems to vary as to whether the BCM needs to programmed to accept the new unit (proxy alignment) which I think probably relates to whether the module's software address has been reset (terminology maybe incorrect). Here software is required of which I have no experience.
Thanks for the really detailed advice- you've answered lots of questions I had.

My £30 eBay diagnostic cables for MultiEcuScan arrived today and I have a little spare time tomorrow morning so I'm going to try and get on it. To access the B&M module under the driver's seat does the seat need removal? I think I'll try to run some diagnostics to see what faults show up. I'm suspicious the battery may be an issue- it looks pretty old (I'm not sure if it is the correct battery for the car). Once the drain is eliminated it may be an idea to get a new one I guess.

Interesting that you said your Alfa B&M was plug and play: I'm planning on getting some trim bits from a similar age 4x4 at a breakers. I may try and get the B&M to see if it works. Does anyone know if plugging in an incorrect B&M could cause any harm?
 
Have a read of this thread, should answer some of your questions...

 
Have a read of this thread, should answer some of your questions...

That’s really useful, thanks 👍
 
Not managed to get my interface cable up and running- waiting for some help from the seller.

Back to the Panda after a week and the battery is totally flat. I decided to remove the B&M module to see if that will stop the drain.

Much easier to get to than on a 500 by the looks of it! Seat still in place. Removed the trim from under the front of the drivers seat (pull out 2 x plugs then pull forward)
IMG_7776.jpeg

Then removed the single plastic retaining peg from the front of the B&M cover and two from the back…
IMG_7775.jpeg


The module is secured by 4 x 8mm nuts. To remove the loom plug, first depress the little tab (arrow on first photo) then pull the black lever back which pulls the plug out (arrow on second photo)
IMG_7777.jpeg
IMG_7778.jpeg

Apologies for the ropey images- just thought it might be handy for anyone else who has similar trouble.

Let’s just hope that was the reason for the battery drain 🤞
 
Not managed to get my interface cable up and running- waiting for some help from the seller.

Back to the Panda after a week and the battery is totally flat. I decided to remove the B&M module to see if that will stop the drain.

Much easier to get to than on a 500 by the looks of it! Seat still in place. Removed the trim from under the front of the drivers seat (pull out 2 x plugs then pull forward)
View attachment 456705
Then removed the single plastic retaining peg from the front of the B&M cover and two from the back…
View attachment 456706

The module is secured by 4 x 8mm nuts. To remove the loom plug, first depress the little tab (arrow on first photo) then pull the black lever back which pulls the plug out (arrow on second photo)
View attachment 456707View attachment 456708
Apologies for the ropey images- just thought it might be handy for anyone else who has similar trouble.

Let’s just hope that was the reason for the battery drain 🤞
A picture paints a thousand words, as they say. Thanks for posting them.
 
Thanks for the really detailed advice- you've answered lots of questions I had.

My £30 eBay diagnostic cables for MultiEcuScan arrived today and I have a little spare time tomorrow morning so I'm going to try and get on it. To access the B&M module under the driver's seat does the seat need removal? I think I'll try to run some diagnostics to see what faults show up. I'm suspicious the battery may be an issue- it looks pretty old (I'm not sure if it is the correct battery for the car). Once the drain is eliminated it may be an idea to get a new one I guess.

Interesting that you said your Alfa B&M was plug and play: I'm planning on getting some trim bits from a similar age 4x4 at a breakers. I may try and get the B&M to see if it works. Does anyone know if plugging in an incorrect B&M could cause any harm?
I don't know know if the "wrong" B&M unit would cause an issue; I think the reality is that most carry the same part number just have different fixings (which would make sense in a mass production scenario). Certainly I know it was the same for Alfa Mito and 500 Abarth; just get the breaker to check the numbers for you?

Further down (above this post now!) you asked about the battery. My experience was that without the car being used the battery wouldn't survive a week with the failed unit plugged in. At that time I decided to replace the battery (you doubt the correct battery is fitted) you should ensure it is the one for Stop Start applications (SS) - there are different types for different applications and yes the SS variant will likely be more expensive.

A little aside on SS; my 2013 TA 4x4 has SS which worked for maybe 4 weeks after the new battery was fitted and then was not seen or heard of for maybe 3 years. I had occasion to drive the car more regularly over the last few days and, out of the blue SS re-joined the party - apparently no rhyme or reason to it although I do know it is incredibly sensitive to battery volts. It wasn't a controlled experiment but normally my other half drives the car, perhaps its just driving styles. Good luck as you debug your new car, mine came with a bunch of "issues" but once sorted I wouldn't have anything else especially this time of year.
 
Pleased do let us know what the problem was. I had problems getting the interface, laptop and car to communicate but once set up it's functioned perfectly.
Update on my £30 eBay cables. Really good support from the seller- step by step instructions on how to adjust the interface setting in MultiECUScan.

Connected to the car. Cleared the error codes and did a Proxy Alignment- no more flashing odometer! Really pleased- I’m hoping this was why the car was really cheap 🤞!

Would definitely recommend the cable/ELM327 set I bought…
 
Not managed to get my interface cable up and running- waiting for some help from the seller.

Back to the Panda after a week and the battery is totally flat. I decided to remove the B&M module to see if that will stop the drain.

Much easier to get to than on a 500 by the looks of it! Seat still in place. Removed the trim from under the front of the drivers seat (pull out 2 x plugs then pull forward)
View attachment 456705
Then removed the single plastic retaining peg from the front of the B&M cover and two from the back…
View attachment 456706

The module is secured by 4 x 8mm nuts. To remove the loom plug, first depress the little tab (arrow on first photo) then pull the black lever back which pulls the plug out (arrow on second photo)
View attachment 456707View attachment 456708
Apologies for the ropey images- just thought it might be handy for anyone else who has similar trouble.

Let’s just hope that was the reason for the battery drain 🤞
Images are in fact brilliant. On the 500 you cant see how it works
 
Thanks for this, I've covered it to a guide for you, easier to find for others 😁

 
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