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General Tis the season..!!!

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General Tis the season..!!!

lightweightmick

lightweightmick

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:woot: :woot: :woot:

Shes' sorted... AT LAST! As it was so mild today the gauge was dangerously over this morning so I headed home cursing and removed the water pump - I did this asap on drive and the water ran out hot. At first I couldn't see a problem, but then gripping the still hot pump in one hand and the impellar in the other all was revealed - the impellar slipping on its shaft. As it cooled down a little more I couldn't turn it!
The pump is plastic with 'Freudenberg' moulded in it - ie. plastic body and plastic impellar. Once its cold there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it! and the impellar won't budge... But as it heats up the impellar expands away from the shaft - rendering the pump useless... and presumably the hotter it got the less effective it was.
So on your next service I suggest to all to check that they haven't got a pump with plastic impeller esp. the above named!
cheers
(y)
 
Who's a clever boy then!
Pleased to hear the old girl works again.

Problem with mine is it won't go over 70 degrees when the engine is hot, so heater is not over effective on short runs.

If Left stationary the fan cuts in at 90 degrees eventually as it should.

Hiccups like F... without the choke on when cold as well.

Pandamaniac (Dave)
 
Cheers lewey!

Hey Dave - sounds like your thermostat is sticking open. Take a look at my 'Guide' on how to test it (or just fit a new one...) - 'tis easier with the distributor off!

BR - certainly is, my blood pressure was going up!

Blurred - that's interesting - do you rely on a light coming on if she gets too hot? Did SEAT have there own heads? or is there a blanking plug in the head for a sensor? or do you like the original set-up?
I'd be paranoid as I've had overheating probs with both Pandas now - toooo risky!!

Before I get complacement btw - strut mounting on hatch back has snapped off (2 spot welds) and tickover/fast idle needs attention as it's as lumpy as a mattress full of sprouts...

oh and, my cooling fan don't cut in at 90 like it should still - so either I damaged the sender unit or the rad sw is faulty - which is where I started come to think of it... :chin:
 
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hi mick,

Yes there is a light that indicates overheating, though i would really like a temp guage too, maybe this was one adjustment to avoid sue from Fiat? ;)
There is a reasuring sound of the Fan spinning off when the engine needs cooling. It turn on and off as it should using the thermo sensor.
But thats a good point, i have not as yet tested the actual light. Maybe i should disconnect the fan and drive for a journey to test it-obviously reatach it once i know its working-if it is :)

seatdash1.jpg
 
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ha ha BM, yes the full test, as earthing the lead will only tell you that the bulb and the circuit to it are okay.
I would think the temp sw that is fitted could be swapped for a sensor - you could then fit a temp gauge as an accessory (y)

Well, with pan of water, digital thermometer and a mutimeter I've got a step closer to working out the resistance of the head sensor. Of the 3 tested, 2 gave a reading of 200 ohms at 95 degs, but the one that was fitted only gave a reading of 175 ohms, so I've swapped it to see if the temp gauge reads higher or lower as the temp gauge has been sitting at 90-92 degs. This is of course to try and establish why the cooling fan still don't sw on soon enough - if I can rely on the temp gauge it will be a step in the right direction :rolleyes:
 
Bm... there's always a 1st time - best try and keep one step ahead! But then I've become paranoid...

Well I can honestly say that she is well and truly bottomed - changing the sensor has finally cracked it (no pun intended!) -

less ohms = more temp as read on gauge

and I was heartened to hear the fan cut in as the gauge tipped 90 degs (AT LAST!!!! :slayer:) and yet the sensor was a new one out of box fitted into the later injection head!
So it just goes to show how much the sensors can be out, although of course the later CLX gauge could be matched to the later inj. head sensor (bearing in mind my older 1000s has now got the later inj. head)
- also worth noting is that the earlier sensor seals with a bevel flange and the later by taper thread - as a good earth is essential then NO sealing compounds ie. PTFE/Hermetite etc. are necessary on either.
 
well done mick :) A reasuring sence of satisfaction when you know a jobs been done-and done well (y) :D

@mep-yep, they also cut cost on the milometre aswel-Marbella clocks only go up to 99,999 then they roll over.

Fateful to the man who buys a car not knowing its age by feel alone.:bang:
 
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