Can anyone confirm the clutch fluid capacity on a 2012 1.2 500C please? Tried referring to the handbook but can’t find the info.

Not sure why anyone would care.

It is much less than the smallest pot at 500ml, so if replacing the fluid, you'll have some left over.

portland_bill said:

It is much less than the smallest pot at 500ml, so if replacing the fluid, you'll have some left over.

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That. There is very little fluid in the clutch hydraulics and it quickly gets contaminated. I'd strongly recommend changing it every two years.

Clutch hydraulics are a known weak point on these cars.

Also worth knowing is that, providing you're careful not to let any air into the system, 1litre is sufficient to change both clutch and brakes.

Don't store opened bottles of hydraulic fluid; if any is left at the end of the job, chuck it away to prevent the temptation of using it for topping up later.

Always use an unopened container if you do need a topup. It's reckoned than an opened container will absorb sufficient moisture overnight to render it unfit for service by the following day.

Thanks for the replies. I’m having the entire clutch hydraulic system replaced next weekend by a local mechanic due to a leak at the push fit connector between master & slave components... just wanted to be sure how much fluid was needed.

Common failure..once disturbed.

Plenty of info on here
including the cost effective fix.

Thanks, I’m new on here so I’ll take a good look!

DAB60 said:

Thanks, I’m new on here so I’ll take a good look!

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No problem

SEARCH found this :

https://www.fiatforum.com/500/453551-disconnection-hydraulic-pipe-clutch.html?453551=#post4290197

Thanks for this, very useful!

It's reckoned than an opened container will absorb sufficient moisture overnight to render it unfit for service by the following day.

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I agree it will deteriorate over time, but I don't see why it should do so any faster than the fluid inside the hydraulic system, unless you leave the lid off the container ? If the lid is airtight, it should live as long as the fluid in the system, so still good for top up - not for replacement, of course.

Gina500 said:

I agree it will deteriorate over time, but I don't see why it should do so any faster than the fluid inside the hydraulic system, unless you leave the lid off the container ? If the lid is airtight, it should live as long as the fluid in the system, so still good for top up - not for replacement, of course.

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I'd agree the original statement is somewhat extreme. Brake fluid is so hygroscopic that some pedantic folk will only change it on hot days when the ambient humidity is low. The equipment used in new car production will generally keep the fluid stored under an inert gas, such as dry argon.

I can understand your logic, but I'd still be cautious. An opened container has much more airspace in it than the master reservoir, particularly when there is only a small amount of fluid left in the bottom. And most commercial packaging isn't particularly airtight once the original seal is broken. I'm sure some of you will remember the experience of reopening a tin of paint, and finding what's left has deteriorated beyond hope of useful use.

According to the manufacturers, hydraulic fluid has a life of three years from date of first manufacture, or two years from date of first use, whichever comes first.

The enemy is water, and the corrosion it causes to the steel parts inside the hydraulic system. Once the corrosion inhibitors are overwhelmed, microscopic rust particles form on the steel surfaces, which flake off and are highly abrasive, ruining the seals.

Regular fluid changes make a big difference to the life of hydraulic cylinders and calipers.

Another thing to remember is that the clutch system has to work much harder than the braking one; on a typical journey, you'll press the clutch pedal at least ten times for each time you press the brake pedal. Also, the clutch pistons move the full amount of their travel every time you use it, whereas the brake pistons only move a small fraction of it. On the 500, there's the third whammy of having very little total fluid volume in the clutch system.

Most folks are aware of the advisility of changing the brake fluid, but forget the same considerations apply to the clutch fluid.

Perhaps it's no surprise that we see so many reports of problems with clutch hydraulic systems. Not helped by the location of the bleed; unless you're a visually impaired gynecologist with the joint articulation of a spider monkey, you need to remove the battery and supporting tray to access it, which is a disincentive to changing the fluid regularly.

I have used paint in containers after 10 years -if they are sealed properly, they are indeed airtight. Nevertheless, you are right re the ratio of fluid vs airspace. If there's only little fluid left, that will deteriorate quickly. That's the same with paint...
Problem is you get brake fluid only in half pint or bigger containers, which makes regular swaps very uneconomic and also very environmentally unfriendly.

If the clutch system is so sensitive, it might be worth changing to dot 5, which is not hygroscopic (I assume it is totally separate from the brake system).

Gina500 said:

If the clutch system is so sensitive, it might be worth changing to dot 5, which is not hygroscopic (I assume it is totally separate from the brake system).

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Dot 5 fluid is worse for corrosion, because any water in the system separates out.

It's true that it isn't hygroscopic, so won't absorb water directly, but that's not the only way the water gets in. It's also present in any air that vents into it, and that water condenses out when the ambient temperature drops below the dew point. This is particularly noticeable in fuel tanks on cold nights, and one of the reasons it's best to store such stuff with full tanks.

In the final analysis, you can't stop water getting into any vented hydraulic system. The best way to stop it doing any damage is to keep it in solution and inhibit it with a suitable chemical inhibitor, which is how a Dot 4 fluid is works.

Hmm, seems the best and most reliable way to operate the clutch is the good old cable, after all...
And I am glad to have a LHD which I understand has a cable

Both my new slave and genuine master came pre filled though I renewed the master fluid as it looked poor so didn't need much probably used more bleeding it than anything else