Mr FIAT - Your #1 source for vintage car parts

Sub and amp deals/recommendations.

Currently reading:
Sub and amp deals/recommendations.

Tis a dual input but mono amp. It basically just connects together to one output inside the amp.

Sorry for being patronising i can see you know that min is actually max amplification of the Input signal.

Ok so for Starters you are passing the LPF at over 230hz. Turn this down to say 100hz and then tweek it to how you like the sound.

The gain should be somewhere around the 3v mk at a rough guess.

I have never seen an amp with HPF that you cant turn off. Do you have the Manual that you can scan or something as i cant seem to find them online.

Its so frustrating, its one of those things that would be easy if i were there to hear and fiddle :bang:
 
I don't have a clue what it is, i just assumed because it had outputs for 2 speakers, it was a 2 channel amp. So how should the subs be connected up or are they ok as they are?

Also, i took a pic off the jbl site for a clearer pic of the settings:

Image034-1.jpg


This is gonna be really silly... but could you mark about where each knob should be set at? The sub level on my headunit is already at max. Sub level on the in car remote is at about 65%. As for the manual, i dont have it with me but i'm sure its somewhere at home. It didnt really help me but if i can find it, i'll scan it and post it up here.
 
A little something like this.
Im just going to have a look at the manual for your HU i think that maybe there is a X-over or something. As really the bass should be set to 0 but i can understand maybe a couple of little notches.
The remote can go to about 80% (y)

Edit:- I cant find a manual either but have you found these setting
High Pass Filter
This filter cuts out the low and midrange tones, delivering only high frequency’s range notes to your tweeters.

Low Pass Filter
This filter cut out the mid-range and high tones, delivering only the low frequency’s signals to your woofers.

If so what are either set too.
 

Attachments

  • Image034-1.jpg
    Image034-1.jpg
    396.3 KB · Views: 32
Last edited:
volxstu said:
A little something like this.
Im just going to have a look at the manual for your HU i think that maybe there is a X-over or something. As really the bass should be set to 0 but i can understand maybe a couple of little notches.
The remote can go to about 80% (y)

Edit:- I cant find a manual either but have you found these setting
High Pass Filter
This filter cuts out the low and midrange tones, delivering only high frequency’s range notes to your tweeters.

Low Pass Filter
This filter cut out the mid-range and high tones, delivering only the low frequency’s signals to your woofers.

If so what are either set too.
Click to expand...


Take note chicken ^^

I would say from there just make your own tweeks to fit the car (larger than a GP for a start, sound deadening? etc.) And tweek....listen with regular breaks. I remember setting my sub/amp up. You play with the settings for a while and think it sounds miles better, get in the next day and it sounds poo.

lol @ Your symetry. Would you not rather have a decent sub/amp AND boot space? I can't wait to get my car back and finish my boot build ;)
 
So heres the crossover settings from my head unit:

Image039.jpg


Its set exactly as displayed. Left it as default.

Volxstu, I set up the amp to the settings you recommended... and it was what i thought. The subs were more or less off. I don't understand why the volume on them is so low. Headunit sub level is set to max already, my speakers are powered by a 4 channel amp and are set up so they are a decent level with the headunit.

Danny, i'd love to be able to tweak the amp and play around with it more if i knew how to, but it seems the only way i can get any bass at all is with the settings at nearly max. I don't understand it at all. Whats with the symmetry though? I do love symmetry! Its great aint it! :slayer:

My boot rarely gets used these days and thats the only real reason i went for two 12" subs. Otherwise i would of stuck with the dire 6x9s...
 
What powers the amp running?

Seems strange to get no bass without being on max. I was told its best to have a bass test style song on and tweek it and you can hear the difference as it goes from sound to actual tune, etc.

I would have a play with the settings more because you can always go back to what you had.
 
dannygp said:
What powers the amp running?

Seems strange to get no bass without being on max. I was told its best to have a bass test style song on and tweek it and you can hear the difference as it goes from sound to actual tune, etc.

I would have a play with the settings more because you can always go back to what you had.
Click to expand...

Power? Its a 4 gauge from the battery to a distribution block, connected to a power cap. The cap reads 14.4v when the engines running so i assume the power supply is ok.
 
The specs read 425W RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms and 700W RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms. It was bought as part of a package so i assume it should be enough to power the subs. The subs are 350W RMS at 4 ohms.

I'm using a distribution block because i'm using 2 amps. One to power the subs and a 4 channel for the speakers. Also, i stuck a power cap in because before, i only had a cheap 10" sub and without the power cap, the lights were dimming. That was with an older battery though. The power cap fixed the dimming lights but then the battery died anyway lol. So got a bigger better battery and kept the power cap as well.
 
Try switching the LPF To 80hz
Oh and you should be geting 700w RMS which should be extremely loud on those subs.
Also how is the fader set. Try playing with that. There is obviously something a miss as you should have blown those subs to smitherines by now.

Also try taking one sub off of the amp and then the other and se if you can here any differences.
 
Last edited:
volxstu said:
Try switching the LPF To 80hz
Oh and you should be geting 700w RMS which should be extremely loud on those subs.
Also how is the fader set. Try playing with that. There is obviously something a miss as you should have blown those subs to smitherines by now.
Click to expand...

I had a play around with the crossover settings on the headunit, one makes the bass from the car speakers disappear and the other, makes more or less no difference. How do i know what sort of power the subs are getting? I remember before with my old 10" sub, it was powered by a 2 channel amp. It used the 2 furthest connectors. At the moment my 2 subs are connected one to each output. So sub A uses the first + and - and then sub B uses the second + and -. Should i connect both subs into one, the + from the first output and the - from the second output?
 
They should be fine connected as they are as i said earlier try disconnecting one and then the other and see if there is a difference.
Have you tried switching the RCA's
 
So heres what i've tried: Disconnected one sub, the other sounds exactly the same. Tried it the other way round and still got the same results. Then i tried Dannys advice, switched the + and - around, that killed off the bass completely so i know my wires are the right way round. I've tried it on both left and right inputs to the amp and both sound the same too. Its starting to do my head in now. Yeah it works as it is but i just don't think it'll be good for the long run.

The fader on my HU is set to default, balanced between front and rear.

If i got a RCA cable with a mono plug on one end and a stereo plug on the other, would that work? Currently the sub out is connected to the R input on the amp. Also, why does this mono amp have 2 speaker outputs? Do both outputs provide the same power?
 
Is there something i'm doing wrong then or is my amp seriously underpowered/knackered? Its been like this from the start, the bass is only there when the amp is maxed.

The LPF works like a volume dial as does the input gain. The HPF i cant notice much difference and the Bass Boost, well i cant notice any difference from that either!
 
Im quickly runing out of ideas. I would love to be able to have a fiddle with it myself, i find it hard to describe the process over the net as its just something that you do lol.
Could you possibly try a different HU so we can rule out any fault with that.

I would still say put both of the RCA's l/r in the sub amp.
 
The sony head unit has been bugging me for a while now. For a while i always thought it was kind of low on volume. My brother bought and installed the same one in his skyline 350gt. Volume 10 on his was well loud where as i'd need to get to about volume 18/19 to match the volume on his. This was before i amped the speakers. Also, the right side always seemed more bassier. I kind of regret going for a show off dvd head unit instead of keeping my pioneer DEH-P9800BT, now that was an awesome head unit. I been looking at getting the pioneer AVIC HD3 but its a bit pricey... I dont have any access to other headunits except my original fiat one.
 
Damn it's gotta b the HU. If you want a great unit have a look at the pioneer p88rs. I payed £190 off of an EMMA competitor so it was pretty much mint. Sound wise it is dubbed the best HU without having to use an external processor.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Panda Power to under seat sub 169
Replies
8
Views
527
koalar
koalar
DiamondDave
  • Question
Dual coil sub wiring question
Replies
2
Views
374
vexorg
V
T
  • Question
Doblo Fiat Doblo 2019 I.C.E. / radio - can you identify and help?
Replies
3
Views
1K
tornas
T
D
500 Fm signal 2016 Pop - AND possible upgrade options
Replies
0
Views
489
Derbyfella
D
I
Aerial Base and antenna
Replies
0
Views
983
Isotope
I
Back
Top