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Here's something you could try for free: swap the two lambdas, it's a 30 minute job at most, see if that helps.
Technical SERIOUS cutout at 2-3k-URGENT
- Thread starter Diwiak
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Technical SERIOUS cutout at 2-3k-URGENT
OP
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dont have two lambdas at the moment-how to remove lambda btw..??? was trying to unscrew that 899 and it was hellish stucked-almost broke spanner 
will change first those sensors I have, then check vac hoses - sometimes there is strange sound from TB
will change first those sensors I have, then check vac hoses - sometimes there is strange sound from TB
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Some people reccomend heating it first, some say to use a lambda socket, i managed it without (iirc, it was a 22mm spanner). Best do a search first.
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will some cleaning of it helps???
and i forgot, right after finishing job i clean whole car, engine aswell-where could water get into???
and i forgot, right after finishing job i clean whole car, engine aswell-where could water get into???
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thanks for help, it was finally(as you said) lambda sensor-i didnt notice before that cutouts are not when cold,
swap lambda with 899's from scrap(its same, 899s have longer lead)-running allright, idle is much better
btw. swapped more things from 899 engine, throttle pos. sensor is the same, map sensor too, vac hose is longer but same, idle control valve is different
worse thing is smoking, sometimes a lot sometimes not, its white/grey smoke, couldnt notice coolant loss yet (200miles done), theres few drops from exhaust, smells not like coolant, also fan is starting at 95degreees(which i think is high), temp going almost to 100 degrees while not moving, but will not boil-could be H/G leaving me or waterpump(didnt change it together with timing belt)??? 70k mileage.
swap lambda with 899's from scrap(its same, 899s have longer lead)-running allright, idle is much better
btw. swapped more things from 899 engine, throttle pos. sensor is the same, map sensor too, vac hose is longer but same, idle control valve is different
worse thing is smoking, sometimes a lot sometimes not, its white/grey smoke, couldnt notice coolant loss yet (200miles done), theres few drops from exhaust, smells not like coolant, also fan is starting at 95degreees(which i think is high), temp going almost to 100 degrees while not moving, but will not boil-could be H/G leaving me or waterpump(didnt change it together with timing belt)??? 70k mileage.
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Could just be the cat getting cleaned now the engine is running properly. If you are not losing any water, do not panic.
Cheers
SPD
Cheers
SPD
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Lambdas keep dying???
cinq starts to make me f***ing mad.. :bang:
swapped lambda, start engine, done 80miles, running allright, keeping at 85-95 degrees, cruising at 1500-2500, no problems at all, city, regional road, accelerating nice, idle nice(yupi).
today checking coolant, at max, running through city, 85-90temp, no problems,10 miles done.
afternoon, start engine, warm up till 85-90 - again serious cutout at 2000 when moving(not accelerating, while keeping the same revs) from lights, then several cutouts through city.
stop engine, disconnect lambda(injection light normally turnedoff after secs and didnt come out when running), engine runs bit rough but no cutouts.
stop engine (still warm), connect lambda, cruising 1500-2500, running fine, stoped car, running idle, engine went to 110 degrees, no boiling, just pressure, moved with car, cruising, temp went down to 85, again serious cutouts....
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH IT??? next lambda sensor gone????????
no mayo on both caps. coolant, oil looks normal. just white smoke - sometimes. and pressure in expansion tank.
ANYONE have an idea??? why isnt injection light showing disconnected lambda??? should be HG gone??? couldnt be some wrong petrol????
really appreciate your help...
cinq starts to make me f***ing mad..
:bang:swapped lambda, start engine, done 80miles, running allright, keeping at 85-95 degrees, cruising at 1500-2500, no problems at all, city, regional road, accelerating nice, idle nice(yupi).
today checking coolant, at max, running through city, 85-90temp, no problems,10 miles done.
afternoon, start engine, warm up till 85-90 - again serious cutout at 2000 when moving(not accelerating, while keeping the same revs) from lights, then several cutouts through city.
stop engine, disconnect lambda(injection light normally turnedoff after secs and didnt come out when running), engine runs bit rough but no cutouts.
stop engine (still warm), connect lambda, cruising 1500-2500, running fine, stoped car, running idle, engine went to 110 degrees, no boiling, just pressure, moved with car, cruising, temp went down to 85, again serious cutouts....
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH IT??? next lambda sensor gone????????
no mayo on both caps. coolant, oil looks normal. just white smoke - sometimes. and pressure in expansion tank.
ANYONE have an idea??? why isnt injection light showing disconnected lambda??? should be HG gone??? couldnt be some wrong petrol????
really appreciate your help...
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my lambda sensor caused the same faults, thats why i suggested it early on in the thread, shame there so exspensive new, after i fitted a new one in mine it was pretty much perfect, slowly going back to how it used to be now
jason
jason
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but new(used) lambda was fine for 100 miles nad now its gone again..???? dont want to buy new one and see it will go too
really thinking of ordering new hg, lambda, waterpump tommorow, remove it and see whats wrong - cracked head 2 pistons gone and hole in block :bang:
i could have new cinq for such money..
really thinking of ordering new hg, lambda, waterpump tommorow, remove it and see whats wrong - cracked head 2 pistons gone
and hole in block :bang:i could have new cinq for such money..
AlexF
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A Lambda sensor shouldn't cause the engine to cut out...
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it have to be lambda-at cold is everything ok, only when warm it starts-with disconnected lambda running too.question is why second lambda died too.
noticed small coolant loss today(yesetrday max when cold, today 1cm below max), removed head, pics next, head taken to expert, small skimming, not pressurized(dont have tools for that)he said usually theres no other problem if head isnt twisted.
there was some rust and burnt bewteen two last cylinders,manifold gasket was in place, found lot of rubbish probably from radweld all over water canals inside block(and I was flushing it months ago), small pistons play,
not difficult job, head on table in less 2 hours
noticed small coolant loss today(yesetrday max when cold, today 1cm below max), removed head, pics next, head taken to expert, small skimming, not pressurized(dont have tools for that)he said usually theres no other problem if head isnt twisted.
there was some rust and burnt bewteen two last cylinders,manifold gasket was in place, found lot of rubbish probably from radweld all over water canals inside block(and I was flushing it months ago), small pistons play,
not difficult job, head on table in less 2 hours
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IS it me or does his gasket looks fine??
Ming
Ming
i would have said map sensor exact problem with my baby. it would be like turning the key off under acceleration then back to normal. but the injector light would flash when it messed around btw does yours flash?
silicone and antifreeze can kill a lambda.if a new one has died most prob from a coolant leak
silicone and antifreeze can kill a lambda.if a new one has died most prob from a coolant leak
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map sensor changed, not doing when cold
mine injector light not flashing, even when lambda disconnected
btw. gasket looks fine to me too, only check closer picture of 1st and 2nd cylinders it looks like water running there
mine injector light not flashing, even when lambda disconnected
btw. gasket looks fine to me too, only check closer picture of 1st and 2nd cylinders it looks like water running there
look at the head staining between cylinders i would think warped get it skimmed
lambda shouldt affect it too much disconnect it and run the car.
pull the map pipe off the manifold and plug the hole suck on the pipe you should notice rev changes.
gaskets can go internally but check the gasket by the two little holes between 1 and 2 its gone there
pull the map pipe off the manifold and plug the hole suck on the pipe you should notice rev changes.
gaskets can go internally but check the gasket by the two little holes between 1 and 2 its gone there
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if that will be only problem of water loss, will be happy
tommorow will come new parts, for to be sure i wont change lambda yet, only after some miles, also iam not sure of that petrol i filled week ago at tesco..
tell me this order of tightening
* tighterning order
* 8,6,2,5,10
* 7,3,1,4,9
are meant from drivers positions???
tommorow will come new parts, for to be sure i wont change lambda yet, only after some miles, also iam not sure of that petrol i filled week ago at tesco..
tell me this order of tightening
* tighterning order
* 8,6,2,5,10
* 7,3,1,4,9
are meant from drivers positions???
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you now your problem sounds very simalar to mine, i tried everything, every sensor, every pipe, connectors, new ecu, in the end mine has been norrowed down to a wiring fault to both the lambda and the coolant temp sensor.
mine cuts fuel for no reason when gently accelertaing or cruising, it tends to do it under fast acceleration meaning it doesnt rev stright away,on the road i can describe it as somone putting the brakes on when i havnt touched a thing is that what its like in yours??,.
hope yours isnt somthing like that, the white smoke could be fuel, over fueling badly causes white smoke (smells of petrol) but then so does coolant entering the combustion chamber (head gasket) which smells different.
you could do with reading the error codes in the ecu
jason
mine cuts fuel for no reason when gently accelertaing or cruising, it tends to do it under fast acceleration meaning it doesnt rev stright away,on the road i can describe it as somone putting the brakes on when i havnt touched a thing is that what its like in yours??,.
hope yours isnt somthing like that, the white smoke could be fuel, over fueling badly causes white smoke (smells of petrol) but then so does coolant entering the combustion chamber (head gasket) which smells different.
you could do with reading the error codes in the ecu
jason
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