Posted this on my members motors thread but get a response so I thought I'd try here too.

Bit of an update for all you detailing nutters out there as I may need some advice. Over the past few days I've been planning a big detail to completely overhaul the paint. I'm planning a paint correction/improvement.

So far my plans consist of:
The usual wash using my normal stuff (autoglym shampoo and wheel cleaner etc.)
Auto finesse iron out (first time doing this so need advice on best ways, and what I'll need)
Dodo juice clay with dodo clay lube. ( also first time doing this so need advice on best ways and what I'll need)

Next step is to use some rubbing compound to help against the swirls I've got. I've been looking into the meguires ultimate compound. From what I've read it's very good stuff and according to Google search the best way to use it is with some g3 professional waffle pads. (never done anything like this so I need as much advice as possible lol, for example waffle pads are a fiver a pair so if there's a cheap alternative let me know haha.)

Following steps are the obvious after a big detailing session. Hand Polish with Autoglym SRP and then followed by a seal/wax with either autoglym's extra gloss protection or my. G3 resin superwax. Haven't used either yet so if anyone has a preference let me know.


So basically guys I want you to all give me your thought onto to what I need help with listed above and if I've missed anything or doing it the wrong order etc.

Sam

Initially you are okay with your wash as it does not leave anything behind so good start. Ideally following your wash you are best to get it as dry as possible. I hate to be very honest but the last time I viewed AF's iron out it was overly expensive in comparison with size (there are others for similar prices in larger bottles/containers far cheaper just to buy a spray bottle and chemical resistant head in Iron X for example refill bottles or even cheaper is to look at the UK manufacturers such as Angelwax and Car Chem's offerings who do a lot of bespoke work for many of the UK "brands").

In regards to fallout removers such iron cut spray on a relatively dry car (otherwise the chemicals within it will react with the water making it less effective). Essentially spray on, but don't allow it to dry completely don't get close to it they stink awfully. Then rinse down throughly once reacted (turning purple).

An additional step would be to have a tar remover but you would need to do this BEFORE the iron remover. The process would be similar

Then throughly rinse the car down and clay. First, never reuse a piece of clay that has been dropped on the floor. You are best cutting it into small chunks and making it just fit nicely in the palm of your hand.

To clay essentially you want to spray the panel with the lube and go over it lightly back and forth and then look at the clay if it is getting dirty then fold it over (it helps if it is cold to give it a quick 10 second blast in the micro making the folding over easier). Work top down panel by panel as you go, so start with the roof and flat panels I tend to go roof, top parts of the car and glass (same process) during a mental line splitting the car in two (top and bottom), then the bonnet, front wings, doors, and lower part of the rear 3/4 or rear door, boot panel and then finally bumpers (if needed side skirts). Then throughly rinse and dry.

Ultimately the car should then be decontaminated and smooth to the touch (go over any pieces which still cause issues likely to be the doors right against the corner so make sure you give these a good clay, but do NOT go heavy with it light pressure on it and plenty of lube or what will happen is that you will marr and introduce more unnecessarily inflicted defects in to the clearcoat).

Chances are if you are doing it by hand you will only see a reasonable improvement in the polishing department. What I would do here is just work a small area at a time, and remember that less is more. Work the polish until it is clear and then have an MF to remove residue.

You could then SRP it which will have limited cut but mostly would probably fill the defects in as opposed to removing them.

As for protection with AG EGP it will sit on SRP okay but don't do this with other sealants bar this one as you will find it won't last in protection owing to the filling nature of SRP and many sealants requiring bare paint without fillers (as a general statement there are about four exceptions I can think of to this SRP and EGP being one).

You could also go down the route of going straight to G3 or put G3 on top of the EGP, remember again that less is more. Well applied wax is not (I will state this again) heavily applied if done well you should barely be able to see the wax application on the panels. Ultimately heavy application means additional difficultly in removal and product wastage.

Essentially quick breakdown
Wash-rinse and get the vehicle reasonably dry
tar remover (optional) and rinse and reasonably dry
fallout remover and rinse throughly
clay
rinse
dry
Polish (see details above)
Seal with EGP or go straight to G3
G3 on top of EGP

NB: Don't ever ever put sealant on top of wax (in this case G3 followed by EGP).

Thanks for the advice buddy, as I've already bought the auto finesse stuff I'm stuck with it now haha. I'm gonna go ahead with that anyway, I don't have any tar spots that I've noticed but I'll have a check over next time I'm detailing and then buy it if necessary. Also I've read somewhere that you can agitate the iron X stuff to give better coverage on the car(before the activation happens obviously)
When it comes to polishing and waxing etc. My plan was to once clayed, use the ultimate compound product from meguires, so get rid of the swirls etc. And then I'm not sure if it's necessary to polish or just go straight waxing/sealing. Ninja59 and I won't use both the egp and the g3 stuff I was asking what people think would be best. And I agree with less is more with Stuff like this.

Sam

You are polishing using ultimate compound same if you use super resin polish. That would allow you to fill defects in and would improve the finish.

Sealants tend to be more glossy the finish in wax will be warmer mind and look more luxury usually.

Ninja59 said:

You are polishing using ultimate compound same if you use super resin polish. That would allow you to fill defects in and would improve the finish.

Sealants tend to be more glossy the finish in wax will be warmer mind and look more luxury usually.

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I was under the impression that the meguiars ultimate compound is used as an abrasive paste like any other rubbing compound? My thought was to use this to get rid of the swirls. I think I'll buy a compound and then assess the paint after claying. Hopefully it's not bad and won't be compounding at all and I can just go straight to polishing and sealing.

Sam

Right in honesty you have three levels of polish in polishing all of which are abrasive by definition.

Finishing, medium and compounds the last ones are machine only in the true sense.

In the most polite way by hand you are never going to remove many swirls (you need some temperature in a panel really to get a correction) and additionally ultimate compound is an okay product with less bite than meguiars professional line m105 and 205.Ultimately you need to assess how bad it is and decide whether to go SRP straight away or to need UC first. You won't however get the full benefit as UC at its best is by DA.

In honesty hard to guide you here but if there are lots of swirls go over with UC. I have spent to much time with machines really to guide on but usually fiat paint is relatively soft being Italian.

Thank you for the guidance Ninja59 I appreciate I'll be there for about a week correcting by hand but without the machine side of things that's what I'm left with. They sell the ultimate compound at my. Local Halfords so I'll assess after claying then get some to drive me down if necessary. I think I'm making out to myself that it's worse than it is. For example looking at newer cars at work in the car park, some of the swirls in their paint it truly unbelievable which is why these hand car washes at the Road side are the spawn of the devil.

Anyway back on point, thank you for you advice and I'll hopefully report back with picture etc when it's done(weather permitting)

Sam

Shame your in the midlands I would have been more than happy to help you with my Meguires DA! You will feel when the clay has removed contaminants!! Have you looked at the deep crystal stages from Meguires that is a good 3 stage system to use after claying. Comprises of Step 1 - Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, Step 2 - Deep Crystal Polish and Step 3 - Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. I always take before and after shots, if you do post up nice to see results.

I think I'm gonna get some decent shots while doing it, once clayed I'll put a line of masking tape and compound half the bonnet then see if it's worth doing the whole car. Was hoping to get it done tomorrow after work but the weather is looking a bit sketchy now.

Sorry to ask this. I was washing the white 500s that's 6months old and its got quite a few rusty flakes on it. (mainly on rear arches)
What do you guys recommend for first time claying ? Just want to get it off asap. Thanks

Crunch70 said:

Shame your in the midlands I would have been more than happy to help you with my Meguires DA! You will feel when the clay has removed contaminants!! Have you looked at the deep crystal stages from Meguires that is a good 3 stage system to use after claying. Comprises of Step 1 - Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, Step 2 - Deep Crystal Polish and Step 3 - Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax. I always take before and after shots, if you do post up nice to see results.

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Step 1 and 2 are okay the final bit is a poor wax mind.

MrMurray20 said:

I think I'm gonna get some decent shots while doing it, once clayed I'll put a line of masking tape and compound half the bonnet then see if it's worth doing the whole car. Was hoping to get it done tomorrow after work but the weather is looking a bit sketchy now.

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Take your time I would give yourself a decent day, eventually understanding the steps means that "speed" comes with experience, however time should never be the underlying factor here.

Going back years a protection detail used to take me about 4-5 hours, in that time now I could probably squeeze in doing partially the interior. Simple trick sometimes is thinking what other jobs whilst you wait for X to do it's thing can you do elsewhere

IJK said:

Sorry to ask this. I was washing the white 500s that's 6months old and its got quite a few rusty flakes on it. (mainly on rear arches)
What do you guys recommend for first time claying ? Just want to get it off asap. Thanks

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I would probably recommend a fallout remover (such as ironX etc.), if that does not work then go to clay.