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Technical Hot start Brava 1.6 16V pls HELP!

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Technical Hot start Brava 1.6 16V pls HELP!

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Corvinus

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Hi folks. I know that there are a bunch of threads with this problem but i cannot get around it.
I have te starting problem when hot, starter motor turns but no ignition.
I went to the tester, it showed only the crank sensor error, changed that, did a reset on the ECU but still the same.
It's a little weird cause when cold starts, revs max up to 1500, then works fine no fuel problems, then if i turn off the motor if i start it right up it will start no problem, but if i let it longer then 5 min then it starts at the first turn but gets up to 1000 revs and then drops until the engine cut's off. After i turn again the key, starter motor turns but engine won't fire up unless i keep it cranked.:bang:
Changed the crank sensor, cleaned the stepper motor, fuel it's getting in the injector rail, don't have a clue anymore.:(:confused:
 
Ok so done all of that, except for the measurement of the gap at the sensor. I've got the following (the measurements were made with the car hot): Sensor - 1200 ohm; Primary circuit A - 1.0 ohm and B - 1.0 ohm; Secondary circuit C - 0 (god damn it) and D - 10000 ohm. Also a question, hopefully not a stupid one, do the leads should have this high resitance and so different: Cyl 1 lead - 4500 ohm, Cyl 2 lead - 5200 ohm, Cyl 3 lead - 3500 ohm and Cyl 4 lead - 2700 ohm ????
 
Corvinus said:
Ok so done all of that, except for the measurement of the gap at the sensor. I've got the following (the measurements were made with the car hot): Sensor - 1200 ohm; Primary circuit A - 1.0 ohm and B - 1.0 ohm; Secondary circuit C - 0 (god damn it) and D - 10000 ohm. Also a question, hopefully not a stupid one, do the leads should have this high resitance and so different: Cyl 1 lead - 4500 ohm, Cyl 2 lead - 5200 ohm, Cyl 3 lead - 3500 ohm and Cyl 4 lead - 2700 ohm ????
Click to expand...
Looks like your coil pack is faulty, since circuit C is 0 Ohms. You could find cheap second hand ones in scrapyards and test them in the same way to ensure they are working. if you dont want a new coil pack. They are also on 1.6 Multipla's Brava's and Marea's

Im not very sure on the HT Lead resistance but I would expect the resistsnce values will change with wire lengh as they have done in your results.

Dont forget about checking the crank sensor spacing If a replacement coil pack didnt help. (y)
 
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I came now from a scrapy but here Brava's aren't so common, and i didn't found a coil pack, but i wonder if it will not be better to buy a new one, with about 50 euro's. Reasonable price i think. I'll get back with the problem fixed ;).
And btw thx Adrian, a lot.:slayer:
 
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Adrian Bravo said:
Im not very sure on the HT Lead resistance but I would expect the resistsnce values will change with wire length as they have done in your results.
Click to expand...

Adrian, that's not always the case.
a. I have 2 pairs of HT leads, ones came with the car and they look pretty expensive, the rubber is soft and generally higher quality. these leads all have the same resistance ( almost ) the reason for this is that at the end that goes on the spark plug every ht lead incorporates another rezistor so that every one ends up with the same resistance.
b. got a cheap pair as well, but these ones all have diffrent resistance on them.

the ones with the same resistance might help the engine, in that sparks in every cilynder are consistant.
that is my guess.
I have the old ones on my car .
 
aurick86 said:
Adrian, that's not always the case.
a. I have 2 pairs of HT leads, ones came with the car and they look pretty expensive, the rubber is soft and generally higher quality. these leads all have the same resistance ( almost ) the reason for this is that at the end that goes on the spark plug every ht lead incorporates another rezistor so that every one ends up with the same resistance.
b. got a cheap pair as well, but these ones all have diffrent resistance on them.

the ones with the same resistance might help the engine, in that sparks in every cilynder are consistant.
that is my guess.
I have the old ones on my car .
Click to expand...
That makes good sense, im not sure as I said though.
 
Rigby said:
Would it be worth changing the coil pack on mine? (1.2) As it has the hot start problem aswell and is misfiring.
Click to expand...
Here is the test for yours Rigby. Test it first, or if you have another coil pack to hand try it. Dont forget about spark plugs and HT leads if they are old or no history on them they may need replacing aswell.

 
Hi again guys.
First of all i didn't solve my problem.
Changed the following:
-rpm sensor
-coolant temp sensor(the one for ECU)
-air temp sensor
-coil pack
Cleaned the following:
-idle speed actuator
-acceleration throtle with sensor
Still no improvement, same s***y start when hot :bang::bang::bang:.
Last thing that may be related is the lambda probe, but till i got money no change.
I'll be back with some update after i get hold of the money for the probe, cause i have to change also the wishbone right side and front brake pads, and who knows maybe the rear brake pads to lots of MONEYYYYY.
 
Hi, I advice not to spend money until you are sure. Do you have multimeter.

Then measure battery voltage. It should be around 14V. Measure voltage between neg. battery and metal. Then measure voltage between negative batrery terminal and engine managemnt earth points (2 on battery case and 1 on engine). It should be 0V in all cases.
Measure it just to be sure all is ok.

Then dismount big black connector located just behind the battery (wires for FUSE boy). Take connector apart, dry it and clean it.
 
Hi, i did checked the battery it has between 12.5V-13V without engine running, and about 14.5V with engine at idle, so i think thats ok (so battery power it's out of the picture).
I'll check to see if the wires for the grounding are not under power as you advise me to.
The black connector that you say is the one with lots of wires and a "akward":yum: connecting mount?
 
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Yes, there are a lot of wires at this connector. It is placed just behind the battery, battery holding case holds this connector, too. To take this apart you have to pull lever at side of connector.
 
I forgot to mention that my consumption is a little higher then before (Before in city- 10L/100km; After - about 10L/70km), that's why i'm thinking it could be the lambda probe, or i've read some more threads and could also be the camshaft position sensor, don't really know.
And also i did the checking of the cables and nothing has changed so probably it's the probe or the position sensor, althought i don't think if the problem is with the position sensor the consumption increases.
 
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